It's a lot of rust, but if it's a real matching numbers car, it's worth at least $10k.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Quote from jwc66k
It would also be appropiate for the date of the heads to be earlier than the engine assembly date stamped on the 'boss' near the distributor which is more accurate than the car's scheduled assembly date.
Jim
Yes, totally agree with that. The engine assembly ought to be consistent with the inspector stamps on the block.
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I'd say no earlier than December '65.
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They're on ebay quite frequently. There is a LH and RH side. Usually sell for $50-100 each.
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And for additional reference... http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9369
Wonder why it's in Norfolk now?
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There are retro kits available to convert to dual reservoir power brakes. I don't think you'll be able to fit anything that appears to be factory on a '65 with disc brakes though.
The original manual k/h discs are actually pretty good. Shouldn't be any problem with using silicone, but it wouldn't be unusual to have to bleed a system a few times if everything is completely new. Any air in the lines will eventually work it's way to the wheels.
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The engine block stamping is more believable than the trans. Seen them like that before. At least all the characters on the block are the same type/size. The trans is just a hodge-podge.
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'65 San Jose order numbers went up to around 258xxx.
Since the car was a Shelby clone, wouldn't put it past a previous owner to add the 8-track player and speakers. I used to have a '65 fastback that had that setup added in the 70's.
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The Ford ones are kind of hard to find. You'd probably be better off buying replacement seals.
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Yes, the D indicates the Falcon car line, but just means that the Falcon engineering department developed and paid for the design of the part. It does not necessarily indicate the car line the part was used on.
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Quote from 65Rangoon
Charles, Your phosphate effort looks darn good. Where did you source the solution from?
[Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]
There's a pic of the phosphate solution label in the blog. Ordered it online from a place called midwayusa.
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If you're referring to the 'T' bolts, AMK sells them. http://www.amkproducts.com
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What parts are you trying to coat?
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It looks like a nice car to cruise around in, but nothing even close to concours level. The incorrect spacing of the MUSTANG letters on the fenders should be good indicator that the GT options on the car should be inspected more closely. A '66 K code would probably be the easiest to fake as a GT... unless it was a Metuchen car with a buck tag.
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Quote from cobraboy
Charles
That pic is very useful. Someone has replaced the flexible hose on my car with a single exhaust one. It is a job to make out but am I right in thinking that the bracket on the correct hose is held by the axle breather fitting? and if so is there any other fittings to go under the hose bracket apart from the breather fitting to secure it?
Yes, the brake hose is attached via the breather tube. Don't forget the tooth washer that is typically seen between the fitting and the brake hose bracket. There is nothing underneath the bracket.
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Here's a typical example of the rear brake line attachment at the rear of the car:
http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/K_vert…13_05%20014.jpg
Here's a pic of an original brake hose/lines on the rear. Sorry it's so grubby!
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Yep, I've seen that too! I think every rubber hose will either have ribbing or an ink stamp to ID the manufacturer.
