Posts by zray


    I really like the 195/70 BFG Traction T/A's. They are much better tire for both wet & dry grip than the raised letter BFG radial T/A.


    p.s. just changed to a 16" wheel so I could run the Goodyear GS-D3 F1 tire. It's the best tire I've ever used.


    Z. Ray

    don't believe there would be a way to determine which shop would be "best". Your best bet would be to join a local Mustang club & find out from the members who is revered in your area.


    That said, Cobra Automotive in Connecticut has a fine reputation, and is well known nationally. . In my area, Austin TX, Mike Jenniges of Cedar Valley Motors is held in high esteem. Maybe others could chime in with the top choices in their cities.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from C6ZZKGT

    Does Ebay really tolerate this?

    -Fred-


    no they don't.


    you have go to the bottom of the auction page and select "report this item to ebay"


    the menu selections goes like this:


    Listing Violations > eBay Motors or vehicle related > Prohibited (banned) items > Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plates


    I have reported such auctions to ebay in the past. Most often they are removed.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 289kford

    quote:

    I have been using BF42's in my Hipo street driven Kars for many years as they do not tend to foul.

    -Fred-

    I switched for the same reason. Did you rejet the carb with the hotter plug? I didn't but wondered if I should. I have looked at the 42's after driving, they don't seem like the engine is leaned out.


    Current formulations of gasoline make it difficult to apply the old methods of "reading" spark plugs. Premium gasoline, which many of us use in our Hi-Po engines, burns especially sooty. Wideband A/F gauges are really the only definitive method of telling how efficiently a engine is burning fuel.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    Can I buy a NEW Autolite plug for my 1965 "K" engine that is equivallant to the old BF 32?? if so, does anyone know the new number?? Thanks!


    I have several unused sets for sale. ( not the ones with the star, sorry. )


    Z. Ray

    Quote from zray

    For those of you who have had experience with the original stock setup verses the Centerforce dual friction verses the Centerforce 1 which one has the lease amount of pedal effort?


    let us know which clutch you ended up with, and how you like it.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from RBB

    Z. Ray


    Do you know the history on your GT 350? The reason I ask is because I was stationed at Fort Hood, Texas from 85-88 and there was a guy on post that had an orignal red 66 GT 350. I talked with the owner only briefly, but it looked exactly like yours.


    Ron


    It was owned by Floyd Beavers from 1966 thru 1990 except for a brief period ('71-'72) when it was owned by John Perry. I don't know if Mr. Beavers was at Ft Hood during that time you mentioned. As far as I know the car was in El Paso TX for most of those years, briefly in the Carlsbad NM area, and then located in the College Station / Austin TX area.


    I thank my lucky stars for the dry climate of El Paso, which undoubtedly is responsible for the great condition of the body and frame rails.


    Z. Ray

    Quote

    For those of you who have had experience with the original stock setup verses the Centerforce dual friction verses the Centerforce 1 which one has the lease amount of pedal effort?


    I had a stock Hi-Po clutch for several years. It was in good condition. I am now using the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. I am also using a bearing petal set up, along with an Opentracker spherical -end linkage. So my clutch linkage is as smooth as possible. In my opinion, the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch is very close in petal effort to the stock unit. It does engage somewhat smoother. As you have read, other opinions will vary from my experiences.


    Down the line somewhere I plan on changing out the Dual Friction clutch in favor of a Centerforce 1 unit. If your motor horsepower production is close to stock, the Centerforce 1 will be more than adequate. There is nothing wrong with the Dual Friction clutch, but if you will not need it if the horse power remains at stock levels. And it does require more pedal effort than the Centerforce 1 or 2. Whichever clutch you go with, be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced, or install a new one.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    Thats just it: I'm really not dead bent on using the original clutch setup, no one can see it once installed, and I've heard from more than one person that the centerforce 1 setup is much better.

    Is the actual pedal pressure less on the centerforce unit??-reason I ask is I have a partially worn out left knee and won't get it replaced for about anouther 12 years so I need something as easy as I can get by with.


    The pedal effort with the Centerforce Dual Friction is more than a bad knee will tolerate. I currently have that set up, complete with bad knees and hips. Unless you are pumping up the HP, go with the Centerforce 1.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    I need to get my HYPO's toploader rebuilt/restored, who is the best for this? do they do the shifters as well?? or should it be done separately? will they do the correct phosphate & oil finish on the trans during the rebuild??


    I've only had dealings with David Kee in San Antonio http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com


    His service was great and the prices were fair. I'd definitely recommend him.


    I've never heard a bad word about the other rebuilders, but don't know their work firsthand.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from noelfisher

    I used the SSnakeoyl underlayment - fantastik stuff. (I had to pull the backing off from the new carpet that I bought, then inserted some of it back in under the carpet over the front part of the trans tunnel to get a good fit there - a carpet problem, not underlayment problem. The quality of SSnakeoyl is very high.


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…ms=underlayment


    I bought the SnakeOyl underlayment kit also, but haven't installed it yet. I was hoping to wait until a better carpet kit becomes available. I'd actually like to use the second skin sound deader as well as the underlayment. Hope there is room for it all


    Z. Ray

    I've used a vintage Paxton set-up on two different GT-350's. They both had the stock 10:1 pistons. I never had any problems with detonation due to the high compression ratio. As previously noted, the boost with the vintage Paxton is low by modern standards. If one was wanting to use a modern Paxton, I would think a lower compression ratio would be more critical. In either case, a 2.5" exhaust w/ good quality headers is a must.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from steve99

    My car is a manual so your saying that the problem will still be there in a manual with the holley ? I like the idea of the 715 dont know why ,,but my car does have shelby type extractors and alloy intake rest is hi po


    if you have access to someone that really knows carbs, and can tweak the Holley a bit, it will work fine. Otherwise you will have an off idle bog or hesitation using the Holley 715 on a basically stock 289.


    Z. Ray

    any one care to conjecture what Pony Carbs did to my Holley 715 to minimize the off-idle bog that characterizes using a too-big carb?


    BTW, I had a GT-350H with the Holley & automatic trans. As others have noted, the automatic seems to make the problem worse.


    Z. Ray