Posts by club 33_old

Quote from Stephan

The ones I got from the local mustang parts guy are a joke, if anyone has an NOS set that they will let go for a reasonable price, please PM me.

I have yet to try the Scott Drake set, or any other USA Made set if there is one other than the Scott Drake one...

Looking for someone who has been down this road to give me a bit of advice.

I guess I could re-chrome the stock ones.

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It depends on what you are after. If you have to have the Ford numbers on the inside, then probably rechroming your originals is the way to go. Some of the last ones available from Ford that I have seen just are not very nice, particularly when they have been moved around in either the plastic bags or boxes that they were packaged in.

If you just want a correctly made door handle set that has nice chrome and functions the way it should, you should purchase the Scott Drake brand kit http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-66-OUTSIDE-…PAIR-P1924.aspx

I'm particular about dates, numbers and all that stuff, but I took a set of NOS Ford handles off of one of my cars many years ago and replaced them with the Scott Drake handle kit. Not only does the Scott Drake made handle kit look better, the button mechanisms function better.

Thanks for the reply. The heel pad (as pictured) is unique to the very early carpet and is currently not reproduced. The later heel pad is a bit different configuration/design. Just one of those tiny details...

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Brant, Are you looking for just the heel pad? or a complete carpet set with the correct 64.5 pad in it?

Might want to check with TRIM PARTS, I believe they have the correct carpet available....

I only need the heel pad. I can have it put on a new set of carpet.

Thanks.

Looking for an early carpet heel pad in good used condition for a convertible (pictured is a coupe/fastback.) I believe the convertible is not as wide as a coupe/fastback. Any color is fine.

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Quote from 6hypo5conv

Thanks Brant! These repros were purchased by my restorer at the big wholesaler in NC.....may be they are of lesser quality than the ones you sell?-I'm going to remove them and start over to see what is going on....

There are a few different ones out there, but no differences in qualities between them that I have noticed.

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Guys, I just went to swap out these clamps and found that since the EH53s are like a horse shoe that they won't slip over the pipe...do I need to loosen the extension and slip it off the resonator & then slip the EH53 on??

I did not think about that, but yes, you probably will. That is a weird clamp.

I've never seen any problem with fit. Wide part goes to the outside. I have seen them in "backwards" (RH on LH side and vice versa) many times.

These "dings" are the spot welds where the inside attaching brackets are spot welded on each side.

OK. I checked it out again. It is actually 5F08K185973. That "8" sure does look like a "3"! It is definitely an "8" though, which is the only thing that makes any sense. That VIN would have had a scheduled production date of around July 1st. Very sorry for the mis-information originally posted.

I'll have to check the heads. I'm assuming that the harmonic balancer on my engine is not original, because it is dated "L3." It is a HiPo balancer though. Is your balancer original?

Other components such as the distributor, engine tag, intake, exhaust manifolds, etc. are gone.

I don't have the casting date on the block yet.

After you posted your VIN, I'm going to re-check that VIN on my engine. My VIN seems way too early for a HiPo. I'm going by my written notes from quite a while ago. The engine is still in the car, but I'm going to check it again this evening.

I'll be back with the information.

Sorry, I'm not much help with your other dates, but I am curious, because I have a 5 Bolt HiPo block in a car. This particular block has "4F18F" assembly date. I just thought that it may be interesting to compare VIN's. The VIN on my engine is 5F07K135973.

Quote from tater_51

Any input on your type of repair, cost, etc. would be appreciated.

I would take it to a local machine shop with a great reputation in your area and get an opinion. I'm sure if you ask around locally (racers, etc.), you can find one.

We have a local guy that I trust. He is great and knows what he is doing. I always ask his opinion on stuff like this and let him fix it as he sees best. I'm sure there are folks in your area that could help. Price? Usually, this type of work is never cheap, but hopefully, you get what you pay for.

Just always explain the situation. Most guys will understand, but let them know why you are fixing what they may consider a "common" piece. There are a lot of stories about machine shops decking an original Corvette block. If you think the HiPo block numbers are important, you should visit with a Corvette guy. If an original 427 gets decked and that stamping is gone, it's a huge part of the value of that particular car down the drain.

Good Luck! I hope it can be fixed.

If the crack is where I think it is, I agree with 6hypo5conv, it is probably an easy fix. It's a pretty common problem. I had an original, standard bore HiPo block cracked there. It was easily fixed by the machine shop.

Quote from GT350H

I have a service replacement hipo block in my Shelby.

Just curious...how do you know it is a service replacement block?

-Brant

Here are the clamps

EH53 for exhaust tip:

[Blocked Image: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/Assets/ProductImages/eh53.jpg]

Link to part: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/TAIL-PIPE-EXTE…TIPS-P1734.aspx

EH261 Band Clamp to hold Tailpipe to Rear Hanger:

[Blocked Image: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/Assets/ProductImages/eh261.jpg]

Link to part: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-66-DUAL-EXH…NGER-P1685.aspx

EH931 Exhaust Clamp with FoMoCo Logo (H-Pipe to Intermediate Pipe):

[Blocked Image: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/Assets/ProductImages/eh931.jpg]

Link to part: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-67-CORRECT-…EACH-P1792.aspx

-Brant

Virginia Classic Mustang Inc

Quote from poboy427

Anyone know if under the soldered tag is an embossed letter being covered up?

Ray

Ray,

That is a great question. On my radiator, it does not look like there could be a raised letter under the "Y." The piece of metal that it is stamped on just would probably not lay down flat unless the raised letter under it was somehow flattened.

When I get around to it, I'm going to take that "Y" off and check it out.

Also, like Bo mentioned also, all of the early GT350's that I have seen have the "G2" designation. I think for my car, that is what I actually need.

Thanks to everyone for discussing this. It is amazing how much stuff we continue to learn about these cars.

-Brant

OK. While we are at it, does anyone know the difference between the "G2" and "Y2"?

Here are some photos of a 6-65 dated SJ radiator. Now it has a "Y2"...and as you can see, a pretty weird "Y."

Most of the GT350's (5-65 and earlier, at least) that I have seen, have a "G2."

Anyway, I don't want to hijack the thread, but I really need a 4-65 or 5-65 Manual Trans. SJ Radiator. I will be using this 6-65 if I cannot find one though.

Thanks,

Brant

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Here are John's images:

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-Brant

Virginia Classic Mustang Inc

The white was originally an off white. A bright white was never available. I have run into lots of instances where customers are looking for bright white. You will find that only in a Chevrolet.

Now, I will go into much more detail (more than most of you may want):

The TMI product is very, very nice, but the white is slightly off from the original. The original white was more of a "pearl" white.

The TMI white is close enough to satisfy 99.9% of the folks out here. In fact, I will probably just use it in my own car.

You can go to the trouble of getting some original white material and having TMI make the set out of your material. The problem with this is that the welting on the seats will have to be vinyl wrapped cord rather than extruded solid vinyl. Because the welting has to be wrapped, it will also be the incorrect size.

There are pros and cons to each way of going with this. I really, really like that extruded vinyl welting cord (that is the way the original was and it is much more durable.)

-Brant

Virginia Classic Mustang Inc

Quote from duckdog1958

Thanks Brant, I read on this forum that there are/were problems with the repop parts. Sounds like the rubber compound is/was to soft. Is this still the case ? Is there more than one outfit reproducing these motor mounts ? Does anyone have first hand knowledge in this area and care to share it ? Thanks, Dave

Dave,

There is only one source that I know of. I have never had a problem with them and have been handling them for as long as they have been available. I'm not sure how long that is, but I do know that it has been at least 4-6 years.

-Brant