Posts by rockhouse66_old

    Nicely done. I am curious though - I thought Moss Green was a '67 color? My '66 is code R, Ivy Green, which is what I always thought your car was. Anyway, I am sure you know and if the tag has the Moss Green code then that is what it is, but seems peculiar for a '66.

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    I'll try and do a photo (closeup) of the LM/DC cable's foam, I have never posted a pic on here before and am not sure how to do it.


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    I would still be interested in a photo...???

    I received one that was simply rolled in cardboard (a couple of layers), then taped up. It survived, but not sure how.


    I shipped one and went overboard I guess. I had a box a little larger than the trans. I strapped the trans to a sheet of plywood, slid it into the box, and then lined the inside of the box all around with packing material. I had some of that 1" thick foam insulation board, and used it all around the inside of the box. I put a piece of PVC over the input shaft and filled it with expanding foam (after covering trans shaft with a bag).


    BTW, from my location, DHL was much cheaper than UPS or FedEx.

    The stud I ended up using is ARP 134-7104 which is a Chevy application. In researching this, I remembered that my heads were rebuilt with .100" longer valve stems (for beehive springs) and this was the primary reason I had to go to the longer stud.


    I made some baffles out of aluminum to replace the stock baffles on my Cobra style aluminum valve covers. I also had to grind a little material off the inside of the covers at one or both ends. They are tight, but they fit using stock gaskets.

    I went down the same path with the Pro Magnum rockers from Comp. I located a set of screw in studs that were for another application and were slightly longer than the ones ARP sells for SBF. I also had about 1/2 of the length parted off the locking nut, as there wasn't any stud thread engagement in that part of the nut anyway. With this combo and modified internal baffles, I was able to run the standard Cobra valve covers.

    I shipped a complete rear axle today, drum to drum. I built a pallet for it, which was not that bad or expensive, and took it to a nearby freight terminal. The buyer sent me the bill of lading paperwork all filled out including a business "ship to" (where he works) and specifying collect payment. It could not have been easier for me, and went very smoothly. AAA Cooper was the carrier, BTW.


    I also shipped a transmission a few months ago and just boxed it (after bolting down to a sheet of plywood). It was striking how different the shipping charges were for this heavy item. From my area, DHL was a little more than 1/2 of UPS.


    Edited by - rockhouse66 on 03/26/2008 16:47:32

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    No big deal, just thought you might have figured some way to do it!


    I seem to be able to find the correct NOS ones when I need them.

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    Sorry, no resto breakthrough. I have been watching the NOS ones on eBay though, and $40 versus about $400+ for the pair was the right choice for my purpose.

    Charles - yes, the inner cable and the housing all came out pretty shiny. I could knock the housing shine down with a light glass beading, I am sure. Probably could do the cable too, or maybe gun blue it to darken?


    I was skeptical that I would find originals nice enough to put on the car (nicer than what I had) so I went this route. I am going to drive this car, not show it. $40 BTW.

    I recently saw a pair of the "aftermarket" ones and they are unbelievably crude. Two hex head bolts poorly welded to a plate. I know you can't see this when installed, but I couldn't put these on a car I owned. I understand Drake sells the same ones.


    My new VA Classic Mustang catalog has them and at least the pictures of these look like the original part. Page 104, FYI. $7.95 a pair.

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    I've never seen a small tag (such as AMK offers) attached to the core of a San Jose Mustang<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Jeff - excuse me for drilling down on this, but are you referring to '65-'66 cars or all SJ Mustangs? And when you say "core" - do you mean core or do you mean the radiator top tank?

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I put one of them, a 6,000 rpm version, on my 65, a non-'K' car, and it looks like, and wires like the original that's on my 'K' car.

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    OK, my last try, I promise. Is the one you installed the '65 style or the '66 style?


    TIA

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    I put one of the repro Rally Pacs on my 65 GT (non-HP) that I got from NPD and I have no complaints. The tach wires up exactly the same as the original one <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Excuse me for beating a dead horse, but the NPD listing for the repro Rally Pac flatly states that the '65 style connects like the original, but says the '66 "connects to the coil", whatever that means! So....does anyone have a '66 low profile repro Rally Pac and can report on how it is wired?