Posts by Rohan_old

I had the same problem with an Australian musclecar some years ago. Same symptoms - would push out fluid after driving the car, but didnt run hot. Car idled fine and didnt push fluid outwhen idling. We did the dreaded C02 test by removing the radiator cap and there was a small amount of carbon monoxide in the cooling system. Took the heads off and they required decking (milling), were very slightly warped. Car ran perfect afterwards.

Do the c02 test to see if there is carbon monoxide in the cooling system first, then could be just a dud head gasket but get the heads checked for trueness while they are off.

That is a very "fresh" looking 40 yr old buck tag.

I only have experience with the "68" buck tags, but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable with the earlier cars will know.

Hi Everyone,

Is there a repo version of the 66 Deluxe wheel available that would be MCA standards? (Very hard to tell from pictures on the net).

Thanks

Rohan

Hi Everyone

Before Mustangs & Shelbys I owned GT Falcons. Here is a XAGT Hardtop I owned in 2003. Was a genuine 20k mile car.

[Blocked Image: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/brianna1998/RPO831.jpg]

I have a 66 GT350 with over rides and the brackets that are welded to the floor are not located under the rear seat - they are located behind the trim panel that the rear courtesy lights are fixed. Therefore no problems with the rear seats.

Rohan

The transmission didnt do this until the previous owner put a set of close ratio gears in the box. Seems strange? Any thoughts why that would happen.

He bought the car, in any case.

Rohan

Hello Everyone

I have a friend who is looking at purchasing an A code. The toploader falls out of 3rd gear under de-acceleration - you can see as soon as you take your foor off the accelerator, the gear lever start to fall. Under acceleration, no problems.

Does this sound serious or adjustment in the linkages?

Thanks

A few things dont look right here but I'll let your eyes do the talking !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/196…1QQcmdZViewItem

Rohan

It took me awhile to find a K that suited my needs. I initially thought that if I could get a car that was matching numbers car - 3 inner fender VIN's, motor, trans - great. But 1st on the priority list was the body to be undoubtly correct and original with all vin's. If I found a car that could have been 100% verified as matching numbers - that would have been a bonus.

Some had matching driveline numbers, but had accident damage and missing inner fender VINs, or was supposed to be all matching but ended up being very suss!

I ended up with a K that has a magnificent body with an unrestored undercarriage, all VINS are present and original. I didnt buy the car as "matching numbers" - No VIN is on the block and the block date code is 5 months before the build of the car so I'd say not a "matching numbers" car, but all hipo parts are present.

At the end of the day it was more important for me to have a correct body, with original VIN's and no bodgy rust or accident damage repairs. I persoanlly wouldnt pay a premium for matching numbers unless you are nearly 100% sure the car is what it supposed to be.

All the best over the festive season to you all!

Hi Rene,

Worse case scenario, if you dont find a VIN on your block use the assembly date code on the front of the block as your engine number - for rego purposes.

I'm sure it would be the same in any state in Australia where main roads dept just want a set of numbers as an identifer for the block.

Rohan

Congrats, nice kar. Nothing like the feeling of knowing the car got here safely! Enjoy.

Dave, one of my books called Shelby Mustang Ultimate Portfolio has road test articles that were done at the time they were released. Granted, Shelbys but all 66's that you can see has the same positioning. (I assumed that once the cars were modified at Shelby they would have put the heater hoses back in the same position. Your pic may confirm that).

Rohan

Hi Everyone

Before I cutoff the excess length of heater hose, could someone please post a pic of what is the correct positioning.

(Just wanting to know whether both hoses run along the rocker cover)

Thanks

Rohan

Thanks for the replies. Been keeping an eye on Evilbay but havent seen anything - yet.

Dave, I've sent you an email.

Rohan

Hi Everyone

I'm after a correct PCV valve for my 66 - HEX shape.

Is there a Mustang parts business that sells good repo's.

Rohan

Hi Everyone

Some pics of my 66. See how I go here!

Rohan[Blocked Image: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j130/66kCode/2006_1202Image0012.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j130/66kCode/2006_1202Image0005.jpg]

Hi guys

Found the problem after racking my brain...

A short in the horn would you believe? I noticed the last time I drove the Kar that the horn "beeped" when turning the wheel - at times. I got a copy of the 66 schematics and noticed that the horn gets its power source from the same location as the brake lights (located on the same power source on the light switch). Here is the link to the schematics

http://midlife66.com/wiring/66exter1.jpg

What a pain in the @rse.

Hi Mike

Thanks for the reply.

I Forgot to add that all of the other lights are working - tail lights and indicators. Only brake lights dont work. Now i know where the ground wire is I'll check to see if there is a poor earth, then might take the brake light switch off my other car to see if its switch is faulty.

Rohan

Hi Everyone

Another electrical drama

The brake lights on my Kar dont work. At one stage one was working now neither work. .

Does it sound like the brake light switch? (There is power getting to the striped wire that attaches to the switch)

Also, where is the ground wire for the brake light so I can check its connection.

Thanks

Rohan

Hi Everyone

FYI just in case someone else encounters this problem..found the culprit - blown turn signal flasher.