Posts by J_Speegle_old

Which production plant?

Quote from SixT5HiPo

You're not seeing things. There is a white sticker there...couldn't tell you what it says, though.

Looks sort of the same shape as a parts tag found on NOS/Service replacement taillight panels and about the right location. Found one once on an "unrestored" 1200 mile car once.

LOL - original except for the repair from the rearend collision. Plenty of original cars out there that have been "improved" (NOS or original parts from another car swapped to the car). Would want to see more than one car with a sticker before I thought it was factory IMHO I tend to set the bar at six examples for "new" discoverers

I do agree with Mike, I would really question it or deduct for it without more documentation.

The forums are a great place to bring up the subject and flush it out ideas before an owner commits to making a change, adding a detail or such. This is the way the community discovers new details, corrects old beliefs or debunks urban legends

Quote from SixT5HiPo

You're not seeing things. There is a white sticker there...couldn't tell you what it says, though.

Looks sort of the same shape as a parts tag. Found one once on an "unrestored" 1200 mile car once LOL - original except for the repair from the rear ender. Plenty of original cars out there that have been "improved". Would want to see more than one car with a sticker before I thought it was factory IMHO

Little off thread but anyone recognize what looks like a white sticker on the back of the taillight panel to the passenger side of the latch mount?

Maybe I'm just seeing things

Don't recall ever seeing one left on an original car 65-67

Would remove it unless it was a NOS one with correct 65-67 dates on the sticker or you might be leaving yourself open for point deductions at a show (guess your referring to a new reproduction tire).

Most original had writing on the tire to identify it to the workers

Just a thought

Since the date on the door is not the real build date (likely) of the car and the range (from documented cases) can be off by up to three weeks before or after I would suggest you try another practice

Ask for examples of stamping dates from (for example) original engine compartment panels and steering box, then compare that spread to the casting dates on the engine parts. This way your comparing at least solid data points.

Just a thought

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But it is a lot work, is there an easier way?

Know some that are opening up the rails from the top (interior of the car) and working them from that side. Seems allot easier to do and hide

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Uh, black?

Well the valley between the two carbs is blue

Must have been what someone had handy (the black)

Maybe this will help with the discussion. Though not a K code it is a period new engine that might give some insight in to the way they were equipped

Hope this helps a bit

[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/66%20Mustang/HMNewsmallblock.jpg]

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.............. Anybody with an original

K-code Mustang built in San Jose and original radiator that

has seen any with Y2. ..............

Not sure why a K code only - do have pictures of a Y2 with a 12-64 date

Like the one Dave (round2K) posted of his San Jose radiator

Have a 2000 = great trucks - much better and less issues that the newer one. If its been taken care of it will service you well for a long time. Like anything there have been some issues but they are allot smaller IMHO that what followed

This is my second one - didn't go with the duallies this time, Custom badging, ram air (68 Shelby style) hood, induction, trans and gauge kits. Haven't chipped it yet

IF the radiator (San Jose) lacks the debossed engineering number I would expect that the brazed on id tag would be present. We've seen plenty of San Jose radiator through 67 with both

"God Save the Queen" !!!!

If there looking at it (and other details) that close - hopefully your at a car show and that's the judge doing the looking.

That's what they get the big bucks for LOL

Anyone ever try to remove the stuff - do you have to heat it?

Seen on cars in yards - heavy and hard as a rock. Tried to pry it off and left a dent in the panel (trunk lid) and the stuff did not let go

Just asking

Believe this is current MCA language

"65-66 Alternator: Natural aluminum with semi-gloss black or zinc dichromate 13-blade fan and pulley."

Quote from shmatt

Interesting- What about the front and rear brake cylinders- same between a standard mustang, k-code and shelby?

Nope there were a number of different bore sizes used for standard Mustangs and K codes. Shelbys used Fairlane big rear brakes (believe those wheel cylinders were 15/16")

Quote from SaltLakeDj

What need to be repopped are the two K code-GT Duel exhaust reinforement plates that spot weld behind the seats. ( oh God did I say that. I really don't want them repopped for reasons of car identification. ...........

You may have already seen cars (fake or rear) with these. Seen them for sale at Columbus the last couple of years. Sorry didn't get the name or business (if it is one) of the place making them

Quote from Murf

Any suggestions for installing new rivets on the uper and lower control arms when replacing ball joints. ...............Has anyone been able to copy the look of the original rivets with a home made or commercial tool?

No - have not been able to to do it at home. Would require machining a tool to reproduce the correct look of the finished product and a press big enough to compress the rivet safely/enough

Rare Parts in Stockton CA

Quote from s2ms

Thanks Jeff. Do you have the VIN for the 05C build date engine?

6R07K1726xx

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Jeff,

We are pretty sure as regards my 65 Shelby with original engine.

................... car must have been assembled around May 7 at Ford in San Jose.

That was #275 ?