Posts by b9folk_old

  • Who wants a nice '66 'vert for $2!?!?

    Troy, with your skilled "camera eye" and promotional materials saavy, you'd make their cars look so good that they would have to up their insurance! You could make extra money by taking photos for eBay auctions and the final bids would prove your services as a wise investment for the sellers.

  • Arvinode system reproduction

    Would be nice to have recordings also of the transverse dual exhaust and the later dual muffler exhaust for comparison of all 3 systems.


    Funny side story: When my kar had just a pair of cheap glasspacks and no H-pipe, it was pretty loud. One time I was getting it out of winter storage and was feathering/revving the engine a little to get it going while it was still warming up. THe sound bouncing around in the concrete building set off alarms on 2 vans which were also stored there, several stalls away! <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>


    I've also heard of someone with a '65/'66 fastback who always kept the back seat up to block some of the noise!


    Edited by - b9folk on 03/27/2008 06:44:34

  • 5F08K748826 @ Bonhams Auction

    It's a beautiful kar, but it isn't perfect (though way more perfect than factory). It should be priced about 30% lower. I agree with Troy in that I hope the prices don't get that high for some time.


    By the way, what is that red sticker on the heater box? Is it a repro?


    Edited by - b9folk on 03/21/2008 07:33:29

  • Exhaust question...

    Ah - I think I see what you're asking. Let me try to clarify, tell me if I'm wrong:


    You are talking about a single exhaust with transverse muffler versus a car with dual exhaust. The confusion comes in because there was also a Hipo dual exhaust system with transverse muffler.


    So you are asking if dual exhaust cars (whether hipo or not) had the mounting holes drilled for the single exhaust transverse muffler, which had a hanger on the driver's side framerail.


    That's a hilarious question to ask me, because my hipo car later had a standard single-exhaust motor swapped in. So in addition to all of the dual transverse/Arvinode systems' exhaust mountings I also have the single transverse muffler hanger. I coudn't tell you if those mounting holes were put there at the factory but I wouldn't be surprised. Mine's an early '65.

  • rusted cowl

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Wiper pivots changed about mid way through '65. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I knew that they changed from the threaded style shafts but didn't think about the sheetmetal changing. Good info to know for us early kar guys.

  • Law suits

    It is amazing that there are still people making money from magnets you stick on your fuel line. I remember about 30 years ago seeing a story (maybe on 60 Minutes or Real People) about duct-taping a pair of cow magnets onto your fuel line to supposedly get better economy. Cow magnets are called that because they were used in cows to catch any nails and bits of wire that got into their feed.


    It's completely logical: If it can catch nails in a cow's stomach, then it must improve fuel economy!


    Better get back to editing my resume.

  • project on hold

    I was told on Wednesday that my job is being eliminated on the 15th. Guess I won't be buying any parts/materials for a while.


    What really sucks is that they had to reduce costs because another engineer's new poduct didn't start generating revenues quickly enough. I'm just the lucky whipping boy this time around.

  • upper control arm repair

    OK, Gerald, you are really freakin' me out now. What did I get myself into? More to the point, why the heck did they make the nuts thread onto both the shaft and the arm? That would explain why the nuts are such a pain to get off, though.


    It would be nice to have the wood/sheetmetal template have slots for the shaft bolts to rest in, to help keep it centered during torquing.

  • upper control arm repair

    I don't know what's typical, but here's how mine is going:


    Removing the upper arms from the chassis was relatively easy. Just "juiced up" the nuts with WD-40 first. My big mistake as an ignorant rookie was not knowing that the spring perch bolts have "ribs" to hold them in place - just loosen the nut from below, not above! Consequently I need to buy new bolts from AMK because I busted them off. Like I said, I was a rookie.


    The tough part was getting the large end nuts off of the shaft as they thread into the upper arm and were solidly seized. While they were sitting, I kept them soaked in WD-40. Then I hit the nuts with a hammer at various angles to try to shock them loose. What it finally came down to was getting them super hot with a torch, then standing with both feet on the arm while using a 4-foot pipe extension on a box wrench to get them moving. Once I got about half a turn on them, they came off fairly easy. I bought Scott Drake upper arm shaft kits for replacements.


    You can buy new spring perch assemblies, but I'm going to replace my bushings and re-use the original metal parts. I just heated up the shaft that goes through the bushing, then pulled them out of the old rubber. If you have a 64.5 or 65 kar, the correct spring perch doesn't have the rubber pads for the spring to sit on.


    The original arms were dipped in black paint, leaving the ball joint areas as bare metal. I'll be painting mine to have a similar look. Will have to let you know how re-assembly goes, as I haven't done that yet. My ball joints were good, so I only need to replace the rubber boots I damaged when using a "pickle fork" to separate them from the spindle. I think there is a tool that they can be pressed out with, I just chose the old fashioned way since I had a tool available to me.


    Maybe we should have a topic: Don't do it this way, rookie!

  • control arm dip line

    Thanks, Jeff. I took another look at my arms to refresh my memory. The upper ones had shiny metal where the spring perch had been, no sign of paint there. The rest has that cepia-toned patina of rust. My lower ones show black paint where the strut rods were mounted, otherwise just rust. I'll have to guess as to whether the upper ones were unpainted or just stopped short of the spring perch, as there is no other evidence to guide me. My first concern is just to get the surface sealed so they do not continue rusting.

  • control arm dip line

    I'm refurbishing my upper and lower control arms and was wondering where the paint dip line on the upper ones would be. In the photos I have seen the dip extends farther out than the spring perch mounting holes but not as far out as the edge of the cutout area. That makes sense to me but is it right? I could swear that I'd seen some that kept the spring perch holes "natural". My upper arms don't have any traces of paint left to go by.


    My kar is October '64, so might they have been all natural?


    Edited by - b9folk on 01/21/2008 12:01:53