Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

    I am finding that not only is my amp guage hooked up backwards (see other post) but my temp guage does not work at all-there WAS teflon tape on the threads but I have removed the sender and cleaned the threads in the intake and the sender and it still won't work, sending unit is new and so is guage and wireing for that matter.


    Also: My fuel and oil pressure guages start to work when the engine is first started then they seem to just "die" (go to zero) I wonder if the fact the amp guage is hooked up backwards is possibly causing this situation??


    We put a repro Rally-Pac in the car and they had trouble with IT having a dead short which they fixed and both the tach and clock work perfectly, execpt the light is out in the clock.


    Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

    OK, I think I understand.......My resto guy said there was something odd about the gear in the trans.....it IS THE VIN stamped original trans for the car so I need a 17 tooth left-handed gear?? I always have known that Ford color-coded their gears for ease of getting the correct one.....is there a particular color gear that has 17 teeth and is left handed??

    66gtk: I would also suggest that you get a good repro 4100 HIPO directly from PONY-(Jon Enyeart) I just got my Kar back from the restorers with the one I purchased from Pony on it and its perfect, perfect from the first start up perfect now, you had a very bad experiance with that former employee of Jon's attempt at the 4100 for you, don't let that experiance make your mind up to keep the non-original holley on your otherwise stock engine.


    On the other hand I had a Holley specialist custom build an OLD OLD Holley 600 carb for my 302 in my 1978 F150 with the Ford auto trans kick-down lever, I put it on the engine almost 15 years ago set it and drove it about 75k miles then recently sold the truck with the carb operating flawlessly-never touched it in 15 years execpt to change the aftermarket in-line filter very regularly.

    Ok, I am going to have these valve stems changed......how short should I go?? wait......NPD has 1 1/4" original DILL brand valves.... so I'll get 1 1/4"....I already have plenty of the correct DILL caps!! and per Charles' suggestion before I put the wheels back on my car I will line up the bottom of the center cap emblem towards the valve stem!!

    I guess I'm talking to myself again here but I have read the MCA current rule book and there is absolutely nothing written about the valve stems or extensions so with that in mind I don't think that anyone could have points deducted for using either configuration of stem/extension/cap, though I will admit that I don't like the looks of the LONG stems sticking out of my SS wheels-they look long enough to trip someone walking by my car....

    There is alot of information in the community about this, Nate tells me he has pictures and documentation to the fact they should be quite long-as much as 2 1/2" (I have not measured the long ones he put into my wheels)but they are long and Charles says that basicly Mustangs all got the same short valve stem, and if a car was equipped with wheel covers that plastic valve extensions were used, and in my case with the SS wheels that the wheel just gets the short stem and the proper Dill brand cap.

    Guys, Thanks!! I thought it was just a simple reversal of wires.

    this guage was NOS Ford unit when installed, the old one I never saw work as the car had sat outside for many many years and rusted pretty bad before the restoration-I never drove the car before.