Interesting that you have one dated as late as 12/65.
Posts by round2K_old
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Gene,
As much as we have discussed this the only photos that I have seen on the site are the skeletal remains that CT posted a while back. Does anyone have any decent pics of the Arvinode system? Exterior or undercarriage would be welcome. Maybe Fred Ballard has some stuff he can share.
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Had to look that one up in Webster's:
non se·qui·tur
a statement that does not follow logically from or is not clearly related to anything previously said
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Fred,
Thanks for the advice. All of my third member experience has been limited to the installation of new ring & pinion sets during complete overhaul; this is a different ball game. I was worried about the idea of trying to get it right after taking it apart and not having noise afterwards.
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I have dropped the rear end to overhaul the leaf springs and differential, and do all the attendant detailing. In order to get all of the seals and small parts for the third member I found it was easier to by a kit that contained all the bearings and seals. Questions is, does it make sense to change all of the bearings in the third member while it's out? There are no problems with noise or clunking and it is a an open rear end, not a locker. I suppose it's a question of inspecting what's there and looking at the wear pattern on the ring gear then making a judgement call.
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Does anyone have pictures of a 65 San Jose car that has an original rear end or correctly restored rear end they could share?
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The fellow on the east coast is Bill Heeley. He reconditions the handles and the shifters. Nice guy and easy to deal with:
3621 Mt. Olney Lane
Olney, MD 20832
(301) 774-6710
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Unfortunately they don't sell the 1/8" diameter.
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I found some asphalt wire loom for repairing wiring harnesses. The material has been discontinued and the only way I could get it was a bulk roll. If anyone is in need of any for their gas tank or tag light harnesses send me a PM. Original Ford material on top and new material is on the bottom in the photo.
[Blocked Image: http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/786/fabricloomnj7.jpg]
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Quote from jwc66k
All 65 and 66 'K' cars came with a dual exhaust system so they all have the frame rail reinforcements. That's why a 'K' GT is easier to fake.
Jim
We have researched this quite a bit and it is incorrect. The early transverse dual cars and the cars that were equipped with the Arvinode system prior to the introduction of the GT's do not have frame rail reinforcements. The frame rail reinforcements were introduced to support the GT dual systems. At the MCA National in Concord in June there were 8 K codes and I checked the frame rails in 7 of the 8. The early cars did not have the reinforcements. We have been lobbying to get Tony to publish a correction to his book.
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In addition to some of the GT authentication points above, the car should have the frame rail reinforcements in the rear for the duals with trumpets.
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What do you suppose is driving these prices? Is it the Shebly or Cobra clone people? It's hard to imagine a hipo car losing the mounts along the way during it's life unless the engine was swapped out.
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I believe there was a TSB issued for the early cars to retrofit the braces.
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Welcome to the forum. The advanced search function will help you in your research. The topic of GT's has been discussed quite a bit, and there is an ongoing thread related to your VIN. Congratulations!
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Not with ebay; never happens.

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Nice looking car. There are some things to work on but it seems like a fair price. What about the weatherstrip along the radiator support?
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It could be a case of the buyer wanting to be sure he was successful in the auction and second-guessing his own bidding with subsequent higher bids.
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Without trying to be critical of any contributors to this thread I'd like to add to the dealer bolt-on K code conversion discussion. I don't consider Shelbys to be K codes; they are Shelby American cars. They may have started with a special order version of a K on their way to becoming Shelbys, but they ceased being K codes when the VINs were covered with Shelby American VINs and completed with Shelby's various changes. If a car doesn't have a K code VIN it's not a K code. Converting a regular car over to a K is a lot like converting a K code over to a Shelby; it wouldn't be correct or accepted by someone who knew about the real thing.
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It it's not a K how can it be correct according to experts?
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He is referring to altering the appearance of the raw metal beneath the paint. Blasted steel does not look natural.