Jim's labels are also glossier.
Posts by round2K_old
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It is an undercoat car, meaning it would have been a dealer application after delivery. Several colors are considered correct for painted undercarriages including red, black & slop gray.
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This whole thread is nuts!

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Oops. I double-checked the order and this is the part number:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp…15&autoview=sku
No matter what brand you buy you have to watch out for the overall height. The ones made for rocker rollers are taller and will bump the covers. These are 1" high and they fit under the stock covers on mine.
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BTW Merlyn: congratulations on your show win!
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I bought ARP nuts but they wouldn't clear the covers. Second try was the Comp Cam nuts and they have been great.
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant…ory_Code=RARMAN
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I asked the same question over on the VMF in the concours area. Charles Turner was the only with specific info and he felt it was April/May of 65. There are a lot of folks with early cars running around with repro wheels with charcoal on them that is likely incorrect.
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I can never understand why people aucion valuvalbe items on ebay, particularly cars, without making the effort to post decent images.
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Behind the instrument cluster there is a ground for the dash harness that is worth investigating. If you are very limber you can reach it without pulling the cluster. If not, you can undo the speedo cable and pop the cluster loose.
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Is that an early distributor with a cast iron water pump?
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There was a difference in the hanger length of the originals vs. the repros. I reused the original hangers and restored them with bead-blasting and zinc phosphate. The rubber on the front hangers was still in good shape. The system came from NPD and was made by Motive Industries. It required a bit of work to get it to fit as they did not have a hipo to test fit the system to when they designed it.
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I have been happy with POR15 in manifold gray. Bead blast, then spray coat, then bake according to their instructions.
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Bob,
In your area of CA you will likely find some large salvage yards with Mustang remnants and they are a great reference. Jeff has documented these for years in wrecking yards for years and got me got hooked on it; there is a lot to learn from the unrestored cars you find there. Here are some reference pics from a 10/64 SJ coupe that show what we're talking about. The one picture with the "X" shows the typical mark applied to indicate that the steering box was torqued. The gray around the marks is dried sound deadener that has discolored with age.
If you are fortunate enough to have the marks on your car then be sure to carefully document each one and preserve them. If you ever restore the car or strip the paint you can replicate them authentically.
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The pusling that you are noticing is a normal characteristic of mechanical voltage regulators with alternators. There are two sets of contacts in the regulator, a high and low, and they will cycle back and forth depending on the demand placed on the charging system by the battery and the car's electrical load. There are adjustments that can be made inside the regulator to the spring tension at the contacts, but it is not one that many mechanics are familiar with any more. The pulsing is most obvious when the battery has been discharged and the alternator and regulator are trying to provide a higher current to recharge the battery. If you use a battery tender when you store your car, or drive it often you will probably notice it less as the battery is nearer to a state of full charge.
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They are asembly line numbers that pair that side of the car up with the fenders as the car went down the line.
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Is the engine ID tag still on the intake manifold? If so, could you post the info? I have the same casting date on my motor and would like to compare the two. Thanks.
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Looking for a 65 black steering wheel, NOS.
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I suspect that the bare aluminum version was cleaned up by someone prior to sale. Bob Mannel might know. What about Stant Cooling; were they around back then?