Posts by round2K_old

I have emailed the seller. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

Need help with a few items for my restoration:

Exhaust hanger #C5ZZ-5A246-L for final installation of my Arvinode set up. If anyone has a spare or one they aren't going to use I'm hoping they can cut it loose.

65 grille bars that would be suitable for rechroming or a set of NOS bars.

NOS standard rear view mirror and side view mirror.

Thanks.

I have photos of the color that were sent to me by Mark Vasquez and I believe the car he was working on was Ron Bramlett's original '66 coupe.

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If this car is not in the registry how will it be treated if submitted?

Good eye, Fred. Here are the seat belt photos from the two different ebay listings and the runs above the eye bolts and spot weld positions look the same:

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Hopefully they have a donor car waiting in the wings.

One word: ebay.

When you remove the studs don't use an air tool. There is an interference fit machined into the thread pitch of the OEM rocker studs and if you force them loose with an impact wrench you'll risk cracking the head at the boss for the stud. ARP and Permatex both sell thread sealants that are specifically designed to seal studs in water jackets. The image below is an old and new Ford stud and you can see that the depth of the V cut between the threads is shallow compared to a normal fastener.

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It seems like there are enough examples of HEH-T transmissions in early cars that it's time to revise the thinking and the history books.

This supports the Ford engineering drawings that were posted earlier listing green and "vert" as the colors. The vert reference in the Ford plans may well have been a fall green bordering on yellow. Thanks for posting. If you can, please share with us other markings you find on the car during your work i.e. frame rails, radiator support, differential. Thanks.

I was wondering about that.....

Congratulations. We expect many more photos!

These are the rivet dimensions of the original steel tube rivets in the hangers for those who are rebuilding theirs. I'm having a tough time finding them; if anyone has a source it would appreciated if you could post it or send me a PM. There is one short rivet and one long per hanger, but I couldn't confirm the overall height as I had to drill them out to remove them, but it looks like 1/4".

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My apology to Virgina Mustang if I had them confused with some other vendor. I'll restate to having bought one pan from Branda and a second from some other vendor I had confused with VM.

You local parts guy is misinformed. The GT wasn't produced until March of 65 and there are a lot of K codes out there earlier than that.

Charles,

I talked to Joe about it before he started production, but with the two different H pipe conigurations (hoizontal tabs & vertical tabs) it was decided to not notch the inlet pipes. The inlets have 2" of flare where they slip over the H pipe, which is what Ford calls for. The locator notch is a .44" in length. I have found that you can cheat the pipes up to the tab and it will all fit, or you can notch the tab yourself, but Joe did not include the tab for reasons mentioned above. I cut notches in mine and used a small cutting wheel on a Dremel and it worked great.

BTW: Before any of you characters start making raspberry noises or horse laughing about the detective thing, I did not know Joe was putting that in there.

I never throw things out, original or repro. You never know when you will want the item you threw out for something later. If I had tossed my exhaust hangers when I put in a new system a few years ago I would been screwed with the Arvinode project. The old hangers provided a point of reference that matched the 65 parts catalog and another car on this forum, and the only place they were used on the early cars was with the Arvinode systems.

Restore what you can and store the rest when you replace them.

Does the casting look a little lumpy or wavy compared to others?

Based on the price it's reasonable to assume there are 100K miles already on the car. It seems a little odd to put language in the add about "if we accept your price" with a BIN price on the listing. Definitely isn't much about the car, and the lack of undercarriage shots, data plate, etc. doesn't help the listing, though it's nice looking.

I went to Autozone and looked at their shelf full of boosters and reading the labels is like trying to find out the recipe to secret sauce. (Perhaps all too true.) I don't think the Castrol products from the UK can be bought in the US because of lead content. I'll look into the Walmart product, but it's doubtful that it's really tetraethyl lead - perhaps some chemical equivalent.