Posts by round2K_old

Brant

Just saw your post; sorry for the delay. The white primer was incorrectly applied by a PO and was subsequently stripped during component restoration. Final photo at the end is the finished installation.

12/30/64 FB 5R09K1169680

[Blocked Image: http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1079/differentialtag.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6963/03carrierhousing.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7373/02pinionhousing.jpg]

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Interesting sales strategy - "If it doesn't sell I'm going to raise the price!"

That was kar-nut, Tom Glotkowski.

Great stuff!

There are many variables that go into how you detail the car, particularly those that are unique to the assembly plant. Be careful detailing your car from photos of other "restored" cars as frequently people choose to copy incorrect details from others. Unfortunately, this only serves to perpetuate the problem. Do your research, and if you are in doubt, don't duplicat a detail you can't confirm.

I've used Frappier as well and he did a great job. One note I would have for anyone considering using him is that he sent it back unassembled as he did not want the liability of rebuilding. I had to reassemble the valve. If you do your own take photos as you do the disassembly so you can keep track of the various components.

Jeff - would all of the body panels have likely been spec'd as red oxide from the vendors, then the gray coat applied at the assembly plant?

Some time ago my 12/64 SJ car was media blasted and repainted by a PO. Unfortuantely he also turned it into a black undercarriage and applied undercoating. I was finaly able to find evidence of the red oxide in the area of the rear spring eye bolts and in the transmission tunnel. Have to agree with Jeff that 45+ years is a lot of time and all kinds of work gets done to the cars.

Bo,

That's a great question. When I spoke with Randy at Stanger Site about this a few years ago he pointed out this info on his web site:

Quote

The valve above was painted with a cast iron type paint to give it a original natural finish that wouldn't rust. I believe these valves were left as bare cast iron as installed on the car.

To the right is a picture of an NOS valve right out of a Ford parts box. This may represent the finish of a Ford replacement valve. It is painted in a light blue with the observed paint splotch on the side.

It would be great to find some early photos of engine compartments to help with this question

Here are some NOS valves that have appeared on eaby in recent years:

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[Blocked Image: http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2057/nosproportioningvalve01.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2955/nosproportioinngvalve03.jpg]

VIN stamped too.........

Looks like a small damper.

Great car, Chuck.

Is the original question specific to 1963 only?

Quote from GT Joe

At a swap meet this weekend a discussion came up that only the 1963 HiPo engines had a four barrel intake.

Looks like a bit of swap meet trivia that was misinformed. Ford supplied 4V manifolds on the HiPo 289 through 1967. They also supplied the 4V manifold on the 289 A & D code engines through 1967.

You get what you pay for...........

Wow - that will really have an impact on future business. Not to mention all the time and effort that will go into the repairs..........

Quote from Jerry

There are more original pictures of aliens that

landet on earth than from a Mustang with 15" steel wheels.

Correct! There have been far more sightings of aliens than original 15" steel wheels on a K code.

Someone had a real need!

It's interesting to have clear images of a NOS 4100 to compare to other carbs that are being restored by Pony, etc. The gold dichromate is shinier and lighter in color than most of the commerically resotred carbs.

An off-idle stumble could also be attributed to a lean idle mixture or an accelerator pump. In general, the ignition system should be checked before the fuel system. Recommend that you double check the mechanical distributor advance and the initial timing before jumping into the carburetor. If timing is OK be sure you have the idle mixture set correctly. If that doesn't improve the situation and you are convinced it's the float level you should call Jon at Pony. He usually replaces the OEM brass floats with a Nitryl unit and may have his own setting.

"Project" cars = expense, particularly when you have to rebuild the unibody to get to square one.