Sorry Mark, but the 65-66 Export Mustangs
had evenly spaced holes in the brace and the re-enforcement
bracket as well as the washers on the front
shock mounts. Shelby ordered the same for his
65-66 Mustang GT350 from San Jose'.
I have personally owned Export Mustangs (in Sweden)
as well as 65 Shelby (in Texas) and 66 Shelby in Sweden as well.
Also have an original Export brce from a Swedish car
in my garage and it's exactly the same as on my 65 Shelby.
/Bo
T5 denomination was only used for cars
sold in Germany as the name Mustang was
already patented there. However, probably
every export car had the export brace re-enforcement.
Does your car have evenly spaced bolts
at the cowl? If so, it's probably an export car.
/Bo
Original trottle plates and accellerating
rod were black from the factory.
Some current, well known rebuilders re-plate them
the same color as the rest of the carb.
Only one, to my knowledge, do them correctly,
Joe Bunetic in Fairview Heights, Ill.
/Bo
The intake is most likely an original
65 Shelby used after the first 100 cars
or so. Looks exactly like the one on my 65.
SFM5S275
/Bo
Neither of my Shelbys with the pipe used for
PCV have erratic idle and very steady vacuum,
16 on the 65 and 17 on the 67.
/Bo
As far as I know, Ford replaced the screw together
fuel pump (same as on standard D-code 289 and 260)
with the crimped design 3939A in late August of 1964.
The 4th edition isn't really clear on this issue.
With reference to the question about 3911 above,
it was used in standard C and A code engines.
/Bo
Hi Dave,
Can you send me the photo that you published
here to my home email address, please.
I believe it's a bit larger than shown here
including the radiator etc.
Thanks,
/Bo
A mistake a lot of restorers do, is to
put the hoses the wrong way through
the firewall and consequently to the heater.
The waterpump hose goes through the upper hole
at the firewall and the intake hose goes
through the lower.
/Bo
Hi,
Does anybody know how identify the
what I believe is a date code at the
end of the 65-66 disc brake proportioning
valve. Mine has 39-5 and my friend's has
359-5. Mine is from a 65 Shelby and his
is from a 66 Shelby.
Thanks,
/Bo
Thanks Dave,
I'll take a look next time the gear box is removed.
/Bo
Hi,
Excuse my ignorence but where can I find the date code
on the bellhousings?
Mine is on the car and I can only see the cast numbers
C5DA-etc.
/Bo
Hi,
Every seat I have seen, front or back has
this type of tag mounted at one of the springs.
Don't think it has anything to do with GT or not.
/Bo
I have had the same problem on both my 65 and 67
and both times it was the brake light switch.
Easy and cheap to change if you are a slim, short
120-140 pound guy and not like me, 6'2", 220 pounds
and stiff as a rock. Finally got them replaced
and working with some week long pain as the price
to pay.
/Bo
Isn't it another country? Could have fooled
me since I saw a hundred thousand people
waving another country's flag not too long ago.
Just kidding, couldn't help it.
/Bo
Hi,
Looks like a very nice car but the block is not
a HiPo from 67. Serial number indicates that
it's a very early San Jose' made 67 FB.
Vin plate is a reproduction as well.
If I were you I wouldn't bid until I have had
a detailed look at the car. Lifting both fenders
to see the hidden serial numbers and make sure
everything matches.
I understand you are quite eager to get 67 HiPo FB
but to pay big bucks without seeing the car in person
is always risky.
/Bo
Hi,
I now have a 5A dated HiPo Balancer in excellent
condition for trade against one dated K5, L5, or
M5 in the same condition.
Trade only, not for sale.
/Bo
HiPO's had the standard 1.75" rear brakes.
Shelby 65-67 had the 2.5".
/Bo
I agree 100 % with Charles. The original
master cylinder for disc brakes were painted
black and silicone fluid doesn't remove the paint.
Spongy pedal!!! Have used silicone brake fluid in
my 67 Shelby for 25 years without any problems
what so ever. The trick was to clean (tear down)
the system completely to remove all of the "old brake fluid"
before filling it up with silicone. Have done this on my 65
as well and haven't touched it since 1992. That's 14 years
with the same fluid and never any problems like spongy pedal.
I will never use anything else on my cars.
/Bo
Hi,
Do you use a spacer between the intake and the carb?
If not, it could be vapor lock, i.e. boiling fuel.
Just a thought.
/Bo
Hi,
This is a fairly common occurance
on a Mustang. Your idea of jacking up
the car can work as can a tool (porto-power
or something similar is what it's called)
that press's the front end apart to fit the
bar. You also have to make sure you have a
correct monte carlo bar, of course.
We had to use a this tool when we fitted a bar
on my friends 1970, Shelby GT350 Convertible
that he wanted a monte carlo bar on. It was really
needed as the front had sagged inwards more than
an inch.
Good luck.
/Bo
