Posts by Murf_old

I am still on the outside, looking in. Send the ADM. a note, and all of that business, in fact did it all twice. Maybe they will get back on track soon. Sometimes newer is not better?

I assume some of you monitor the VMF and wonder if you are locked out now? My email will not be accepted when entered. Is it me?

Great job! Congrats on a job well done!

Thanks, Brant! Hope the images will help in understanding the difference in early Mustang radiators. The Dearborn radiators are identical, to the best of my knowledge, as the New Jersey built Mustangs. I hope that some of you with NJ cars that still have the original radiator will check your car and confirm that they are indeed alike.

I sent Dave Wallace a few images of the strap, maybe he can post one or more of them if it will help others see the details of this strap. Sorry to say that I am just too stupid to figure out how to post images on this forum.

I am pretty certain that at least the strap on my "K" kar is made from a section cut longways from a Ford radiator hose of the 60's era. It has the white nylon or rayon cords that show in the center, and the slick side is obviously "aligator skin" in texture as were the hoses used during that time period. The thickness also is the same as that of a radiator hose. I too thought that it was part of the sidewall of a tire but a few years ago Scott Halseth from NPD wanted the same measurements so I looked at it very closely while getting the dimensions for him and discovered that it probably was sourced from a radiator hose, not a tire.

The radiator for the NJ car should have a stamping on the side strap near the voltage regulator that reads as follows:

DEP 8005 Y2 632

Note that this is just an example, not anything specific pertaining to your March car, but it reads like this: The DEP seems to be a common marking for radiators used in both Dearborn and NJ production, the 8005 seems to be on all radiators of that era with the Y2 (or G2 or several other alpha-numeric symbols in this spot), and the 632 would be read this way - 6=year (1966, 3=month (March) and the 2 indicates the week of the month the radiator was produced. This number was tricky because it is common to find radiators with a " 5 " in this location since some months will have a work day that extends into the fifth week. I have a few of these sides but none that will be of use to you. Hope this will help in your search for the correct part. I have several images that better illustrate this but do not know how to post them

You probably will need the side straps for the NJ car. The "date" is stamped on the side support on Dearborn and NJ cars, and the top is of a different style compared to the SJ built Mustangs. The SJ radiator tops are a little more difficult to get or should I say afford since the Shelby gang has a need for them for their 65 and 66 cars.

Any suggestions for installing new rivets on the uper and lower control arms when replacing ball joints. The originals typically have a "knurled" pattern to one side of the rivet, and has a very distinct look that is seldom duplicated. AMK and other sources have the rivets , but how can the installed look of the originals be duplicated? Is there a tool available for this process? Has anyone been able to copy the look of the original rivets with a home made or commercial tool?

Been there, done that! Having been employed in underground coal mining in the Midwest, being out of work was no stranger, Strikes, contract time, and lack of customers were all a source of ucertainty. I held on to my "K" through some undertain times, and when the mine where I worked shut down altogether we managed to keep the old Mustangs through some lean times. My wife was very understanding which was the key to sanity and survival when things were at the lowest point. Was lucky to find a good job, and made it to the end of my working years without selling any "toys". You will survive, you will worry about the future, and if you have a bit of luck you will end up better off, but the uncertainty is the worst part. If you have desire and can adapt to new things a better life is in your future. Good luck to all of you.

I used the Gabrials as listed in the "Classic Car Line" at Autozone. They are an "almost" dead ringer for the original Autolite shocks if one used the thicker washers available from AMK, and the ride is just great. Smooth as the originals in my opinion. I am very happy with them, this is the third Mustang I have put them on and all three give a plush ride with the added advantage of a gas shock.

Troy, I have a pair of front GR-2 KYB shocks that have less than 2,000 miles on them. They were on a 68 CS when I purchased the car, and were removed and replaced with the Gabrial gas shocks. Nothing wrong with the ride, I just wanted the looks of the Gabrial. The ride was just fine with them, maybe a little more harsh than the Classic line of gas shocks from Gabrial but certainly did not rattle my old bones. Send me a PM and ask any questions about the ride. I drove them home from Northeast PA to Illinois and they felt good. PM me if you have any speficic questions.

This morning I looked carefully at the face of the clock. The second hand is Yellow.

Yes. A GT with a low profile rally pac

Feel the need to offer this to your discussion - my "K" has a build date of April 22, Dearborn plant, VIN 5F09K701583. It was ordered for the son of the owner of Hawkinson Ford, Chicago and must have been ordered before the publid ever got a glipse of the Ponyand GT packages. Seems to have been ordered with all options possible, Pony, Tinted Glass, SSW. Visibility package, "K" engine.console, so I "think" that the rally pac is original. It does NOT have the "6" on the dial. Not sure if this info helps or hinders your decision. For what it is worth I am the third owner and the car was virtually untouched when I purchased it in 84

Bos, that is correct for the date. The format is Year/Month/Week. Not able to help with the M---

Well, is anyone interested in researching the bulb type oil pressure sending units. To start this discussion it seems like "way back when" Ford used to service this bulb with a couple of different parts, and that one had a "40 " stamped on the base while the second unit had an " 80 " stamped on it. I think maybe the 390 engines took the "80" and the small blocks used the 40, but I have no basis in fact for this. I once put one with the "80" in a 66 289 and although it read within the range of the gauge, it was on the low side, going about one third of the way rather than letting the needle stay in the middle or slightly to the right. I replaced it with a bulb that had the "40" stamped on it and all was well, with the needle going about two thirds of the way to the high end of the operating range when cold and remaining in the center when at normal operating temps. So does anyone have any insight on how present day bulbs are calibrated and can anyone list a pressure/ needle position relationship using common replacement sending units. I suspect that these present bulbs are calibrated to function with various pressures and may not even have a meaningful relationship with our gauges. Anyone worked on this?

Today I had time to fool around with checking the actual temp at the thermostat housing, taking readings behind the thermostat and at the top radiator neck with an infa red device. This happened to be ona 68 302 that I had been working on, but using the same sending unit as mentioned in this thread. At 180, the needle reads just to the left of center in the gauge. Was charging the AC so had an opportunity to run the car in the shop for a while and when the needle was straight up and down the water temp was 195, just as it was on the 65 hipo. After turning off the engine I watched until the needle reached the little vertical mark at the end of what appears to be the "normal" range. NOT all of the way to the H, just even with the high end of the operating range on the gauge. The temp at this needle position was 225 F. That was as high as it got, so really have no idea what temps/needle relationships are after that point. Just wanted to throw this info out in case anyone wants to have an idea of the actual temps using the NAPA sender. I feel it reflects an accurate indication of the engine temp. I will use that particular part from now on no matter what the parts books say.

Thanks for the explanation of the number stamped on the Ford sending units. That is the first meaningful relationship of that stamped number to temperture anyone has offered.

I agree with Charles. Check out the stamped logo and the information under the logo and you should be able to determine the date the coil was manufactured. If you post an image of the info or the information itself someone will help you decipher the date code and then you will know for sure.