Quote from RBBIs that the factory location/installation for the rear seatbelts?
Yep, sure is.
Posts by 65Rangoon_old
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All I've ever seen were natural.
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I can't tell you the compression ratio that would result, but I can tell you that I did a 0.030 overbore and a 0.010 head mill on my engine, and 93 octane has never been a problem in the 7 yrs/16k miles I've driven it. That includes the round trip journey to Nashville and back for the 40th anniversary bash.
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Quote from BoSDisplay More
What you describe is the later 67 system.
My car was produced in Jan 67 and has the
black with gold text reservoir and need the
bracket I am talking about.
Thanks,
/Bo
Wish I could help you. But, I'm real partial to the original bag & bracket on my Oct '66 build GTA F/B.
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No specific repop's I'm aware of. Alternatively you could go to your local driveline shop and have one built. I've also seen custom aluminum drive shafts offered in some of the aftermarket catalogs.
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In the descriptive data, reference is also made to the 8" Trac-Loc rear end. Might be a typo, might be another red flag.
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The Shop Manual range is .019 ~ .021 or 30 ~ 33 degress of dwell.
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Good to have you with us Tito.
About 5 years back I contacted the DMV in Sacramento concerning a '71 Vette I purchased new in Riverside. Sure enough they were able to provide a name and city of the then current owner, who I had a long chat with. Perhaps the DMV can help you out as well. At the time the fee was juct $5 bucks.
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A hearty welcome from Texas to the forum Steve.
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Welcome aboard K-NUT.
A 289 powered Vette. Wow! The Corvette community must have had a seizure when they laid their collective eyes on that puppy.
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I voted for the F/B because of its' aggressive profile, which as the saying goes, seems to be hittin' a hundred even though it's sitting still. I reckon I was first bitten by the body style way, way back in my High School days when I had a 1941 2 DR Pontiac Torpedo Special, also a F/B.
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I tried to put a set (brand??) on a friends '65 Hipo years ago. Problem was, one of the primary tubes wouldn't clear the pax side shock tower. He bought a set of Hedman Hedders and they fit like a glove because the Hedman product had an extra bend in that primary tube to provide the required clearence. I've been told Hedman was the original supplier to Shelby.
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Congrats to you and your Pop!
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Another bumper question: would it be better to have an original quality rechromed or just buy a quality reproduction?
Repops go for what, perhaps $90 to $100, while a rechrome is probably in the 150/175 plus area. So from that standpoint the repop makes sense. The most recent repop examples I've seen from Dynacon (sp?) have a finish and smoothness much better than other aftermarket vendor products, and are in the just over $100 range ,at least from the local Mustang parts vendor here in Austin.
On the other hand, originals as I understand, are date code stamped. If that is the case a stamped bumper would be vital for a top line restoration, and a replate makes sense (I've a couple of originals and darned if I can find any stamped date info on either of them).
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Yep, the concave profile is the way the bumper should be.
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Natural for both the cast case and stamped steel cover plate.
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Has anyone tried to contact Jean/Jason at this email address [transcolorphoto@netscape.net] and been successful? I wasn't.
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In an 'open' cooling system, if the radiator is filled to the top of the neck with the engine cold, virtually without fail excess expanding coolant will be forced out of the overflow as the engine & coolant reach normal operating temp. It will continue this purging until enough space is created to contain the hot coolant without dumping it overboard.
Perhaps that is what you are experiencing with your car. It's not a malfunction, and the only way to 'fix' it is to convert to a 'closed' cooling system with a coolant recovery tank.
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Since the drive shaft tunnel already has the console screw retaining holes, you might be able to avoid seat removal. But (there is always a but) if the carpet doesn't have the holes I'd say the seats must be removed to create the necessary carpet holes and to avoid any seat upholstery damage.
The way I've found best over the years (for me) to create the carpet holes is; from under the car, push an ice pick through a hole, and from inside the car use a solder gun to melt the nylon pile and underlayment. It's a bit of a task to pierce the underlayment, but doable. It's vital to melt/seal the nylon pile, otherwise there is a real risk when installing the console retaining screw(s) it/they will grab the pile and start unraveling it. If that happens it can ruin your whole day. Ask me how I know.
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