Posts by rockabilly_old

Hi,

Thanks for the advice. My studs were threaded long enough so I did not have a problem with the shoulders, but I did yank off the adapter again and it was definitely warped. I layed it on a flat surface and it rocked back and forth. I found a good used adapter and it works fine. The vacuum leak is solved. Thank you everyone for your help.

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I chased a similar problem and ultimately found the threaded portion of the stud was not long enough to allow proper tightening of the carb to the manifold. I would think I had everything cinched up tight and everything looked good, but it was only cinched up tight to the stud. It is easy to check, just remove the front nuts and look to see if you can see the shoulder of the stud.

Jay

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It appears that the leak is between the adapter and the manifold itself, right in the front. I think I am going to replace the adapter. I see that California Mustang has them, and hopefully it is a good repop of the original. Would there be any problem with doubling up on the gaskets, both top and bottom of the adapter?

Thanks....

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not familiar with edelbrok, but is it possible the carb doesn't match well with the adaptor? If the autolite is handy, I'd try putting it back on to see the difference, if any.

Z.

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Well, I put on two new carb base gaskets and it made a big difference. The idle is much better, but it still won't run very long when I am stopped at a light in drive. It just dies out. But if you put it in nuetral, it idles back to a somewhat normal rpm, but still a little higher than normal. So, I did the old carb spray trick again, and the engine did rev up just slightly each time I sprayed the base of the adapter where it meets the manifold.

It's only in the front of the adapter. The sides and rear seem to be fine. Is it possible that my adapter is warped?

Here are some shots of the car and engine.

Thanks again for all the tech support!

http://picasaweb.google.com/11318870394591…388513346919634

Yes, the intake and adapter plate are OEM ford.

I'm guessing maybe the adapter plate is a little warped and this is why I am not getting a good seal.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thank you....

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I would not use a gasket sealer. BTW, is the intake manifold a stock Ford item?

good luck, and keep us posted.

Z. Ray

Edited by - zrayrichter on 08/28/2010 14:23:58

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Update,

I did the carb cleaner spray test and it showed that I did have a vaccum leak at the base of the carb. I'll get two new gaskets and hopefully this will take care of the problem. I did not use any silicone the last time I installed the carb. It is ok to put a light coating of silicone on these gaskets to help seal it up?

Thanks...

Hi There,

Thanks for all of the tips. I will use the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks. It seems like vaccum leak to me, but I was not able to hear, or see any problem areas when I checked the other day. I didn't know about the carb cleaner trick at that time, so I'll give that a try. I have all of the vacuum ports plugged on the front and back of the carb.

The car did idle rough with the old carb, but not as bad as it does now. It also smelled like it was running very rich. I tried to lean it out, and there was no difference at all when I adjusted the right side adjuster screw. I turned it clockwise as far as I could go, and there was no change in the engine rpms at all. The new Edelbrock does the very same thing. I thought that the Edelbrock was defective too, so I took it back and they were nice enough to replace it for me. The second Edelbrock worked exactly like the first.

When the car is running, I can see very little gas going into the glass filter, but the car seems to be getting enough fuel to run well at high rpms without cutting out at all. Still, it would seem that the filter should be at least half full. The main problem I have is just not getting a good solid idle speed.

I'll work on it today and let you know if I was able to find the problem.

Thanks for your help.

Hi,

I have a 66k hipo fastback with an automatic.

It was not running very well, and will not idle. I can keep the car running at about 1500 rpm, but I cannot get it to idle and run consistantly below 1500rpm. I knew the carb was getting old, so I took off the autolite and put on a brand new Edelbrock 600cfm with a manual choke. I also replaced the fuel pump. I have a glass fuel filter attached in between the pump and the line coming in from the side of the firewall. I noticed that the fuel level in the filter only fills in the very lower level of the filter. This is why I changed the pump as well. Shouldn't that filter be full of gas, or is this normal? It revs well and does not seem to starve for gas.

But it just will not idle at a respectable rpm. When I get to a light, I have to pop it in neutral or it will die, and it is embarrasing that it idles so high.

I don't hear (or see areas of) any vacuum leaks, unless it could be leaking out of the intake somewhere. I have the stock single point distributor with the points removed and replaced with pertronix.

I do have an aftermarket yellow top coil. I read somewhere here in the forum that this could be a problem. I adjusted the lifters properly and timing seems fine. It starts easy. If anyone could give me some ideas, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

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Jim, either email or PM your phone number and I will call you.

-Fred-

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Hi Fred,

The owner was able to find the key for me. However, the key was pretty sloppy so I was able to change out the tumbler and it works like a charm now. I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Jim

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Jim, you need to turn the ignition switch to the accessory position. You can then push your paper clip through the hole depressing the pin that stops the tumbler from turning further counterclockwise. The tumbler can then be turned slightly more counterclockwise and it will slide straight out. Make sure that the replacement tumbler is also turned to the same position for installation. You can practice with your replacement tumbler before trying this. You will be pushing against the spring loaded brass pin with your paper clip.

-Fred-

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Hi Fred,

Thanks for the advice. The problem I have is that I just bought this car and the previous owner lost the key. Is there a way to remove the tumbler without having the key, or do I need to buy a complete new switch assembly?

Thank you,

Jim

Hello,

Can anyone give me some tips on how to change the ignition switch tumbler? Do you just use a paperclip and fish around until it pops out? I hope it is that easy

Thanks in advance.

I tried to do a search on the forum to see if there were any threads about changing the factory paint color to another color, but I could not find any information about this subject. I have a numbers correct car, but I hate the factory exterior color. I would really like to paint my car with the factory candy apple red as this is my favorite 1966 ford color, but I would hate to decrease the value of my car because of a color change. I have the perfect opportunity to change the color now because the car has been taken down to metal and primed.

I appreciate any input that anyone may be willing to give me.

Thank you....

Hello,

Is there anyone who lives near Greensboro or Lexington NC?

There is a car that I am interested in, located in Lexington.

I would be happy to pay someone to look at it and give me their opinion on it.

Thanks in advance!

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Yes, top goes to proporting valve bottom to the tee...

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I do appreciate the help. Thank you!

Hello,

On the stock single cylinder masters for the 66 K codes, there are two ports. The top port,(which is located in the middle of the master) and the lower port. Can someone please look at their car and tell me if the top port plumbs into the proportioning valve, or does it go to the tee block that is mounted on the fender apron. I am trying to figure how to hook up these two lines coming off the master.

Thanks in advance!

Thank you all for the tips and suggestions! Installing complete

Hi,

I was wondering if someone could give me some tips about installing a cast iron stock hipo intake manifold. I have done some research on the net, but I get conflicting methods. Here is how I believe that the manifold should be installed, and perhaps someone can correct me if I am wrong:

1) Coat the surface of the head where the intake manifold bolts to with a paper thin coat of gasket cement.

2) Coat the surface of the gasket (the side that mates to the head) with a paper thin coat of gasket cement. (I am using fel-pro gaskets)

3) Do not place any gasket cement on the top part of the gasket where the intake manifold sits on. (This is what I am not sure of) I did read that it was ok to put a little bit of RTV around the water ports??

4) I am going to use the cork gaskets on the front and rear of the manifold. I know that I am supposed to put a dab of RTV on each end of the cork gasket where it meets up with the main gaskets, but should I seal the top and bottom of these gaskets with silicone as well, or should I use gasket cement?

I know the torque sequence and the torque settings for the bolts, but I am not entirely sure about preparing the gaskets for the mounting of the manifold. As far as I can tell, there should only be gasket cement used on the head, and the bottom of the gasket that mates to the head, and not on the top side of the gasket.

If anyone can give me any tips, I'd really appreciate it. I don't want to do this twice I tore my engine down to paint it and it looks too pretty to mess up

Thanks in advance.....

I think you were selling this car last year for $43k, correct?

Is this the same price that you are selling the car for today?

The market has softened since then. An exceptional car should hold it's value, but it's not going to increase in one year from 43k to 68k in this market.

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Thanks for all the comments. I offered 21,500k but seller insists the kar is worth 25k to 30k, not sure 25k would get the kar. In the end, I will keep looking for a more finished car. I would rather pay 35-45k for a more complete kar, as time to do the heavy repairs is something I don’t have at the moment.

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Hi,

I am near you in Vancouver. I have two restored GT K Fastbacks that I am selling because I am moving. You are welcome to come over and take a look before I put them out on the market.

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Was it the GT equipment that pushed the price up on this one, more desirable? Buyer will have $30k + in the car just tracking down the hipo parts, and then get to start spending lots more $'s on the restoration. Is the market bouncing back up again?

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Yes, the market is bouncing back up again, at least for K codes. I just went to look at a GT Fastback here locally. It was in worse shape than this car. It sold for 25k before I arrived. If you can get a decent turnkey Fastback these days without having to spend any money on it, $40k is looking very reasonalbe.

Anybody have an opinion on which direction K Code prices are headed?

There also do not seem to be too many good quality cars on the market lately as well. I see many more coupes than fastbacks for sale.