Posts by 1966KGT_old

For reference, my `66 VIN matched block has casting # - C5AE-6015E, casting date 5H13, assembly date 5H20Z

To be quite blunt, I think this wive's tale that people use advertised VIN's to create new ones is pure B.S. If someone wanted a K VIN then all they have to do is get a copy of the K registry.

The seller of a rebody may be upfront to his buyer with the rebody issue but somewhere down the road, someone is likely to get stung.

Also re-vinning date correct blocks is not about restoration at all! It's about deception and nothing else! If your going to put a non original date coded engine in your K then leave out the VIN. Put it this way, would you be OK with finding out your block isn't original even though you paid top dollar for it. As we all know, a regular 289's and K 289's use the exact same C5 block but different main caps. If the blocks are the same, then why do sellers ask $200 for the A block but want $800 -up for a non #'s matching VINned block with the K caps missing? Because they are original K. The same thing goes for the car, too.

Funny how prices rise when someone knows they have your date code!

I think there is more to this failed auction than meets the eye. This car has to be worth almost double the top bid.

Quote from joegtkcode

Prices are really soft now. My friend just bought a matching #'s 66 GT. It was factory resale red and was in show condition for $38k.

The market may be soft throughout the rest of the year from what I hear.

Don't say that too loud. Someone starts a rumour and the next thing you know the market will take a plunge.

Crane Cams doesn't recommend synthetic oils because they are so slippery that the lifters don't spin as they should.

I'm currently using Mobil 1 10-30 and was considering changing back to dino oil.

My other K has a date of Sept 18/05, and has the original BX tranny.

My March 29/65 FB has a correct VIN stamped HEH-T toploader. According to Tony's book, only Ks built from 8-20-64 to 10-1-64 had the HEH-T. What gives??

I bought this one and will be restoring it to K specs. It is a rust free DSO 71(L.A.) car. It needs quite a bit of work under the hood. Engine is a Jan`64 5 bolt 289. Vintage F4B. Trans is HEH-T.

Happens I need your intake and I have the oct 65 intake to trade. Im late for work. will contact you later. Brock

Quote from Murf

Checked mine, (April 65 dearborn car) and they are simply stamped G2 on each manifold, along with the engineering numbers. This information may muddy the water a little. Will provide an image to you if you like, unable to post here but can email if you send your addy.

I just compared two sets I have..One pair has the date codes on the backside of the manifolds in a 7 7 5 fashion(no letter for month, July 7,65 dated correctly for the car which was built in San Jose). They also have G2 and G3 below the part#'s.

The other pair has the date cast into the front side of the manifolds but uses a letter for the month. They also have 1 N and N 2

below the part#'s.

Murf, your dates may be on the backside like my San Jose K.

Not trying to answer my own question here, just noticing some differences in identical part numbered manifolds. Maybe different foundries?

I don't believe for a second that nobody here knows.

Myself, I wouldn't shell out big dollars for a car loaded with repop body panels. Looks like this one has the old style repop driver's door without the cattlegrain stamped into the interior metal. If it were just one door, it could be replaced with an original. But if the car has more repop exterior panels, I feel it should reduce the car's value accordingly. Just my 2 cents.

Kinda like half the K parts that go thru Ebay... Someone contacts the seller with a offer they can't refuse and the auction is pulled!

I won these manifolds. True to his word, they are NOS. Bonus for me is they are date coded to my spare engine.

I have a pair of K manifolds which have date codes of K24 and K54. Can anyone tell me how these read? K=Oct, 2=day, 4=year? Thanks, folks.

Sounds too good to be true.

The reason I ask is I have taken over a project which has been thru a couple of lousy restoration shops, and now there are a few things missing. So I don't even know what this spacer would look like. I have the switch and threaded chrome ring. On 65-66 there is a cup and spring to tighten up the assembly. I don't know about `67.

It appears that my 67 is missing the spacer that is used to install the ignition switch in the dash. Does anyone have a photo of this spacer or tell me where I can get a new or used one?

Thanks