Posts by Ashep65k

  • May 65 Hipo motor for sale

    I have a 5E29 dated HP289 that has been in my car since 1999. There are no issues with this motor. The only reason I am pulling it is I have located my origional vin stamped block and decided to build it from scratch V/S tearing apart a perfectly good hipo motor and robbing all the parts. a little about the motor, it has been bored 30 over. I do not have the exact mileage but it’s low. I can show the buyer documented mileage of 30,411 on my odometer when I purchased the car in 1986 and the current reading is 45,111. That is 14,700 in the past 37 years and the motor was installed around the year 2,000. I would venture to say mileage is 5,000 or less. The compression is 200 psi per cylinder last I checked. It does not smoke and runs like a top. All the rotating internals are there and correct for a 65 dated motor.

    The Cons- it has no vin stamp and C3 heads installed.

    I am selling the long block and rotating assembly only. This will include the ballancer and flywheel to save having to rebalance the motor. the buyer can come drive my car, compression test the motor, then we can pull it the following day for pick-up/transport. I want 8,000 OBO for this plug and play engine. I live in North Florida so pick up is preferred unless you want to arrange the freight yourself. PM me direct if interested.

    Just to be clear you will get the following:

    Oil pan

    Ballancer (C3)

    Crank

    Tomahawk

    Rods

    Pistons

    Block

    Flywheel (non hipo)

    Installed water pump (non hipo)

    Timing cover

    Correct C3 hipo cam

    Lifters

    Pushrods

    Heads (C3 hipo)

    Rocker arms

    NOT INCLUDED:

    Air cleaner, carb, carb spacer, intake, valve covers, exhaust man, bellhouse, fan, pulleys, Alt, brackets, dizzy or fuel pump.

    I do have a few photos of the engine with the rocker covers pulled and the oil pan pulled I can send on request.

  • Fog Light Holes

    Non GT K cars still came with factory dual exhaust so that is not a good indicator…and by the way I hear y’all but I don’t think the rocker panel is a good option in all cases because when I was young and dumb I thought they were “missing” from my car and added them. Found out a few years later that was a mistake when someone said “that’s not a true GT it’s got rocker moldings” myself I don’t really care if no one believes me because the car will never be for sale…i made some other bad mistakes too like throwing out my Original door data plate because the mustang shop that ordered it for me in the 90’s said it was an exact Duplicate. Personally my car was 20 years old when I got it. It still had the Original interior and original paint still on it. I know what it is and that’s all that matters

  • Fog Light Holes

    That’s the first I’ve ever herd of this…from my understanding if the fog lamp holes do not have a Lip on the backside the lamps were added or the core support has been replaced. You would have a tough time verifying true GT Status without the proper holes

  • 1965 K code

    Welcome to the page. I understand that fear well. Takes a little bit to understand and or Navigate and worried you may post something in the wrong place. We have a section under “lost and found” Fred may be able to move this there for you or you could re-post it. But if you check it out some of the members have posted motors and transmissions they already have and the vin numbers on them in that section. Normally, once he sees your post Evan (he keeps the list) will reach out to you and get your information and add you to the running list. He is on duty overseas right now so be patient.

    You will find this site to be a great source of information glad you joined us :)

  • Correct water pump cast or Aluminum

    You are the Man!

    You confirmed what I thought. The water is so muddy I think I could “get away” with using either pump. how-ever I doubt I would be able to find a “cast type” timing cover with feb, March, or April date I don’t think they were made that early.

    Thank you so much for the information!!

  • Correct water pump cast or Aluminum

    Hey guys I’ve been combing the web for days now looking for an answer I trust is correct, and it’s not going well. Now that I have my original vin stamped motor I really want to make it right. The problem is without the engine tag and the block being naked when Evan found it the proper timing cover and water pump appear to be a muddy subject. Looks like the change from CL7 to CL8 happened sometime during the month of may in 1965. Here is the issue, my car build date is June 8 1965 (after the change) But the engine assembly date is April 15 1965 prior to the change. I would think the engine was assembled during the CL7 period and the water pump/timing cover would have been installed during engine assembly. Can anyone confirm that the change level would have followed the engine and not the car and my car would have had the aluminum style system? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. I’ve been beating my head on the wall over this one…and I am really hoping I am wrong because the cast pump has already been purchased for the car…but I want it right. :)

  • Buddy Bar open letter valve covers

    How would one determine witch one I have? All I know is they were open letter, have the “buddy bar” stamp and some knucklehead painted them orange…I can post a pic when I get home. I figured they were period correct for my 65 and authentic so I bought them to match the 3 Duce I’m installing on the car

  • Buddy Bar open letter valve covers

    Quote from Dan Case

    You might want to determine what version of parts you have before doing anything. The original 1964 model year covers were made as production parts for new Cobras. The assemblies Cobras used are rare as loose parts and extremely rare in never damaged or media blasted condition. I have been looking for a PCV side cover since 2005 that is totally unmolested. The covers were sold by Ford as accessories for other 1964 Fords but it must not have been a popular purchase. Circa January 1965 more than one of wooden master patterns started being used and before new 1966 MUSTANG GT350s changed to using the new die cast covers other production revisions happened.

  • Buddy Bar open letter valve covers

    Thank you Dan this was exactly what I was looking for…BTW I use aluminum oxide in my cabinet. But it appears I may want to dry ice blast these and I had never even herd of that process. I also am pleased to hear the ribs were high polished as that is what I wanted to do

  • Buddy Bar open letter valve covers

    Hey gents I’ve got a set of buddy bar open letter valve covers that I want to restore, they have been painted on etc…I do not want to ruin the value of these things so I am going to ask if anyone has done this and if you can give any pointers. I was planning on sand blasting then polishing the fins however after reading on a blog I noted someone more schooled than I mentioned one of the ways to tell a re-pop from authentic is the re-pop is too polished. So I guess what I am looking for here will blasting the aluminum or polishing the fins hurt the value? If it’s ok to blast should I put anything on the raw aluminum to protect it and how polished we’re the fins after manufacture…will just a light sanding and hand buffing work or does it require polishing on a buffing wheel. Thanks for any info :)

  • Vin stamped block found

    I am happy to report thanks to Evan my VIN stamped block has been located and is on its way back where it belongs. Amazingly the assembly date is still visible so it’s never been decked and still measures out at just under 4” so it’s a standard bore. I’m a happy man right now :)