Posts by Hi-Po

I was hoping it was the Winter blend of gas which I had purchased in November last year 2024 , and has more Butane in it than the Summer blend of gas dose and the extra added butane causing it to want to stall once it's warmed up , but today I purchased some fresh Sunoco 93 octane which I always use , and I always add 1 ounce of Stabile for each 2-1/2 gal. of gas . Once the engine is warmed up it will stall out at idle . I have checked the timing , and it always has idled around 900 rpm . The 289 Hi-Po engine in the car was just freshly re-built , and the odometer had 89, 990 miles when I purchased the car back in March 2005 and it now has 93, 603 . It has a correct 65 HI-PO carb from pony carbs . It always ran great for 19 years . Now it runs great until it's warmed up ? I have changed the fuel filter on Fred's button top pump once , but have not ever changed the screw in one in front of the carb . To me , because of the fact it runs so good for 30 to 45 min before it starts to act up tells me that it's not a fuel filter issue , but some sort of vapor lock ? Now I'm starting to think that it could also be the 20 year old Pertronix II , or possibly the 20 year old brown reproduction coil , and not fuel related because when it quits it dose not sputter out , but just shuts off , and when you let it cool down it runs again . Any help would be greatly appreciated .

Fred , It's been a long while . Thank you so much for your input on the proportioning valve . My button top fuel pump that I purchased from you many years ago has never missed a beat , and neither has the 6 blade Hi-Po water pump . Right now I am finishing up a long restoration on my 57 Nomad , and God willing I will get in touch with you to purchase one of your valves . You are a main part of keeping the early Hi-Po's alive , thank you so much , Domenic

I have heard that the preliminary adjustment on these early 65/66 valves should be around 11 or 12 threads sticking out from the lock nut , can anyone say if Ford made a special wrench to tighten this lock nut down after you have found the best adjustment for your car , with the valve installed in the car ? Or dose the valve have to come out to lock it down, so it will not leak .

Hello. I would be very grateful if you can merge my old posts together with my new account . My old account was also ;hipo possible small letters and possible no - line. Domenic

I know about a thing called a" divorsed choke ",no pun intended i personaly don't think they work. The a-code 4100 autolite works great on this orig c-code 289 even thou the a-codes came with a larger cam . When the secondaries open, up it makes the change well worth the effort, esspecaily since the 2 barrel needed rebuilding. When i purchased the carb from Jhon at "pony carbs" i inquired about purchasing a hi-po manual choke carb and he informed me that it would'nt work because the hi-po has a larger cam than both the c-codes and a-codes. also the $1,500 core charge plus $1,500 rebuild fee is somthing to think about. Has anyone had any luck with a manual choke holley type carb? I want to put dual exhaust on the car and wanted to know if the re-pro hi-po exhust manifolds , would make much difference over the stock exhust manifolds?

Can anyone tell me if ford made a special tool to remove and install the fuel filter canister on a 1965 fuel pump with dual ribbed rows, without doing any damage to the can? You have to get the can really tight without doing any damage. So far i have been lucky being very careful but they must have made a special wrench. On a seperate note has anyone ever heard of a special automatic choke cover which replaces the original bakalite cover but has a electrical wire coming out of it which operates the choke? I had a 1960 corvette 283 with headers and the original carburator hooked up like this and it worked great! Besides the 65 hi-po fastback manual choke, i also have 65 c-code which i converted to stock ford iron 4 barrel intake and stock 4100 -4 barrel Pony carbs . I would like to in stall re-pro hi-po exhust manifolds but keep the ford 4100? Either they have to start re-proing the hi-po fairlane exhust manifolds or better yet what is the deal with this special electrical relay choke cover? Any gear heads out thier help.

April 27th and i finally got to drive the Hi-Po today. Here in Westchester NY you have to wait for the april showers to wash away all the salt.It was nice to see my harmonic balancer spinning thur for the first time thank's to the Damper Doctor. I also want to thank Fred, for the beatiful CARbureTer button top fuel pump, and rebuilt Ford 6 vane water pump, and nos early thermostate cover, Not to see that little puddel of anti- freeze sitting in the water pump or timing cover pocket is great. The details make the difference to see that red oil filter next to the white can on the fuel pump is cool.Hope to make it to the Rhinbeck NY show on May 8th, weather permitting.

I am waiting to receive my hi- po balancer back from the Damperdoctor and i am hoping that someone can tell me if i need an extra long fine thread balancer type bolt, so that i can get the balancer started, then go back to the proper bolt , or is the original bolt long enough to catch and draw it in? Also do you recommend lock tite on the thread's , Domenic R. Mamone

If this is actually the Bob Mannel that wrote Mustang & Ford small block V8 1962-1969, i have to congradulate you on the best book on the subject that i have ever seen! The knowledge i have gained on these small blocks, in just the three weeks that i have owned the book is incredible! I never knew that the 221-260 was a completly different block than the 289. Or for them to go back to the hot water carb spacer on the commet, falcon V8's cause thier was no room for the air cleaner with the heating duct. This tells me that ford really thought this was important. Or how to tell if you are looking at a 302 instead of a 289. You could go on and on. Anyway with thier being only one correct number, for the 6 bolt 65, 66, and 67 hi-po blocks ,they must have made alot of this particular numbered 6 bolt block to cover three years. Because Tony Gregory's book fourth edition page 6 lists four numbers used to cover 63-64, 5 bolt blocks, you would think they made more 5 bolt blocks, than 6 bolt blocks? Anyway thank's for a great book . Domenic R.Mamone

Bob Mannel's book chapter-2 2-22 shows two pictures top and bottom of a carburator spacer which included provisions for heating the fuel air mixture on all 1962- 221 and 260 engine's.Ford later went to a duct with a thermo heat flap on the air cleaner which worked off the pass side exhust manifold's on the 289's to achive appox. 100 degrees.On the Hi-po's with the open air, air cleaner's how is the mixture heated?

Bob Mannel's book states in section A, 2-5 that the 5-bolt engine was used thur 1964 production.Can anyone tell me what is the latest production date known on a hi-po mustang that uses the 5-bolt engine? Tony Gregory's book fourth edition page 6 shows only one number for the hi-po 6 bolt block,which is; C5AE-6015-A,-E (after August 1964). So i assume all 1965, 66, and 67 hi-po mustang's have to have this number, plus they are all 6- bolt engine's.Where thier any early 65's with the 5 bolt engine?

I was at the hershey fall meet, and saw a guy installing mud flaps on his 66 fastback . He just pressed them into place as he was about to leave the show field on saturday. I asked him where he got them and he said NPD.I ordered a set, about $50.00 and on my 65 C-code fastback they work great. But on my 65 HI-PO fastback , which i did like a 65 Shelby they could be a little longer at the bottom. On this car, i have 15 inch 205 michelin harmony radials with the Shelby Crager mags.The company is called jaeger brothers automotive accessories, inc. At;734-544-9840.I spoke with John to see if the ones for the 69-70 were possibly longer which i could trim to fit the 65-66 but he said they were wider not any longer. So i asked him if they could make a custom set, and he said yes but they would be about $100.to do four.John said that they were made out of ABS plastic and only crazy glue will work if i desided to modify the rears.Anything's better than stone chips on your lower quarters! Domenic R. Mamone

No i have not pulled the passenger side fender back to see how they did on that side, but i have owned, and been around enough mustang's to know where all the factory spot welds are suppose to be, and more importantly exactly what they should look like. This car is a very early fastback.It has the early hood with turned down edges in front. Heater, defroster off in the middle,am radio with less station.Sill plates with square edges, early date coded radiator ect. ect. In calf. they kept the same licence plates,i have the black plates , which match the original pink slip, which has the same vin. number with the 09 or fastback desination. No one could has found a san jose coupe, with the same vin. continuation number, except for God . Thank you for the help, Domenic R.Mamone

Caspian 65 or anyone else out thier in mustang land, can you please tell me if thier should be a ridge on the hole for the fog lights, in the radiator support, on a real 65-66 GT mustang? I saw this on this forum on someones k code fastback. This would seem to be a stamped and not drilled hole. Please help Domenic R. Mamone

Caspian 65 have you, or anyone else out thier in mustang land ever heard of a mustang , having an error in the factory vin. stamping? I have a one owner 1965 San Jose built factback which was built on Sept. 28th,1964. This car has an 07 or coupe designation , instead of 09 or fastback . I have the original pink slip which has the correct 09 designation, along with the original door tag also with the correct 09. I also have the original black plates, with the same plate number as on the original pink slip. I also have the original mustang manual filled out as a 2+2 fastback,signed by the original owner, Lilly who drove the car until her husband put her in a nursing home, and sold the car to me.Can anyone tell me if they have ever heard of this kind of thing happening in the factory vin stampings? Please help Domenic R. Mamone

My car was built in November 1964, so it's an early 1965 K-code fastback.The early #1 variation plate started with 1964 and a half, and carried part way thur 1965. Your car was built 5 months later. The dual exhaust buck eyes, are also further back, as they used this arvin style exhust. Hope this helps, Domenic R.Mamone

It sound's like buy the time they were offering factory 1965 A-code GT mustang's, that they were already using the variation#2 hi-po style plate. My car is a 1965 Dearborn, K- code fastback built on November 20th. It has the early Variation#1 style plate. Thank you very much for all your help , Domenic R. Mamone

Caspian65; Sorry to be such a pain in the ass, but what i have been trying to ask is; Thier was a time frame on early 1965 A-code factory GT mustang's Such as in April 1965, when all that was available was the early variation#1 HI-PO style plate. Now can anyone tell me ,did they ever use this variation #1 early style hi-po plate, which is on the lower page of the fourth edition book , or did they just use the standard mustang plate ,see top of page 89 . On factory A-code early 1965 GT cars? Lastly, i have heard from an MCA judge that production on 1965 real GT mustang's started sometime in Febuary 1965 . Mid - March 1965 would have only given them two week's to get them ready? dose anyone out thier have a real Febuary 1965 GT ? thank you very much Domenic R. Mamone

caspian65, or any one else who know's. Please turn to page 89 of the fourth edition . On real 1965 GT A code, mustang's built between march and august 65, would they have the standard plate shown on the top of the page, or would they have the early variation #1 hi-po, k code plate, shown on the bottom of the page? thank you Domenic R. Mamone

Caspian65, can you tell me, or anyone else who may know- If you purchased a real 1965 A- CODE GT mustang , built between febuary, and august of 1965 , did the car have the early variation #1 HI-PO plate ,LOWER PAGE 89 FOURTH EDITION welded above the rear's floor pan? Any help would be appeciated, thank you Domenic r. Mamone