Posts by jwc66k

  • new member

    Welcome. I like that color combination. There's an "A" code 66 HT on the side of my house that may get that Honey Gold treatment, my "K" is Silver Blue and it stays stock.

    Jim

  • carb question?

    The one marked C0AE-K is a 1960 full size Ford but I don't know what engine because my book don't go back that far, but it is not Mustang or HP. The 6A AC is for a 1966 only full size Ford 390 with a C6 AT and California smog.

    Jim

  • Console Glove Box Flocking -

    There was an approach that recomended painting the console's glove box surface first with the color of the flocking, then applying the glue and then sprinkle the flocking. The instructions that come with the flocking recomend painting the final color then sprinkling the flocking over the wet paint, no glue or other adhesive were necessary. I consider that method to be more efficient, and eliminating a material and one step fits the bill. I did practice on a cardboard box to simulate the tight area of the glove box first and it worked. I'm going to finish up the glove box today but everything appears to be fine.

    Jim

  • Exhaust hangers near back.

    Yes (and no), and yes. The tie downs were supposed to be removed at the dealerships and returned to the factory. Many, as you see, did not get returned. Three of my four have the brackets.

    The exhaust hanger hole are only present on 65-66 factory dual exhaust cars after a certain date. I'll leave the date to others to define. They can be replicated but it is difficult.

    Jim

  • Console Glove Box Flocking -

    Flocking the glove box –

    Over time, the console glove box gets a lot of scratches, dings and whatever. Here’s what I did to make it look better.

    Materials:

    - Black flocking can be obtained from http://www.detailmaster.com under part number “DM 1609 Velour Flocking – Black”, about $4.00 each. You will need three packages. I also got a pack of blue (for contrast) to practice “flocking” on a 6 X 6 X 10 inch cardboard box. The instructions say don’t breathe or eat the flocking.

    - Glove box paint and flocking adhesive: Use non-spray flat black paint instead of an adhesive and paint. I used Rust-Oleum Flat Black (bird in hand). Don’t bother to touch up minor scratches as the combination of the paint and flocking should cover all but the largest.

    - Three paint brushes, a 1 1/2 inch wide for painting, a 1/4 to 1/2 inch to get into tight corners, a 1 1/2 inch to brush excess flocking when dry.

    - Masking tape.

    - A lot of newspapers.

    - Scraper.

    - Sandpaper, 100 to 120 grit.

    - A turkey baster, or some other type of device that can “distribute” the flocking with light puffs of air.

    Procedure:

    1. Remove everything from the console shell.

    2. Clean the shell and repair any portions that need attention.

    3. Scrape and sand the glove box interior and rear (at the firewall end) glove box removable end panel. Remove any old flocking build up especially from the inside corners.

    4. Paint the shell. Several light coats as always.

    5. When the paint is dry, mask the exposed edges at the glove box. Murphy’s law dictates you will have to do some touch up painting, especially on a white shell. Do not forget to mask the screw holes and slots in the glove box from opposite side. The paint accumulation will fill the screw thread holes, which is probably needed.

    6. Spread newspapers all over, including a couple of pages on the floor. Make sure the newspaper on the floor is clean and remains that way.

    7. Start with the floor of the glove box first.

    8. Paint the surface with the wide brush and use the small brush to spread the paint in tight areas.

    9. Sprinkle the flocking. It may be packed in its container tightly so take care. Sprinkle the majority at the door end. Turn the shell to the sides and glove box end up to spread the flocking. Use the baster to further spread flocking with light puffs, then orient the shell glove box down on the paper on the floor to spread flocking to the far edge and to remove any excess.

    10. Check for coverage and use the excess to cover. Do not apply additional paint. Shake the excess flocking back on the paper on the floor and save.

    11. Let dry over night. Clean the painting brushes.

    12. Brush the dry surface with the clean wide brush. Save the excess.

    13. Do either the right or left inside surface next repeating steps 8 thru 12 using a new package of flocking. Save the excess.

    14. Do the other inside surface repeating steps 8 thru 12 using a new package of flocking. Save the excess. You do not need to do the upper inside surface.

    15. Using the excess flocking, mask, paint and apply the flocking to the removable glove box end panel. Before applying the flocking, make sure that it’s clean.

    16. When dry, brush all flocked surfaces one more time.

    17. Mask glove box if necessary and touch up the exterior.

    18. Reassemble console.

    Jim

    PS - I'm at step 15.

  • Exhaust hangers near back.

    Quote from stevea

    I saw a couple posts awhile back and I could not remember if they are the correct ones or not? Also I put the old leaf springs back on the car. It sits a little lower, but still not thinking low enough?


    [Blocked Image: http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo195/mykcode/65%20k/deerand65springs027.jpg]

    Your car does not have the two holes in the frame rails for the exhaust hangers. The holes are located between the tie down bracket and the shackle.

    Jim

  • New Member

    Welcome from another "C4 K". Mine's an October 65 San Jose build so don't pay attention to what "they" say about C4's, they're usually wrong. Keep in mind that around 850 GT-350H Hertz Rent-A-Car Shelbys were equipped with C4 automatic transmissions in 1966 as well (I'm storing one in my back yard). I was told (remember the "they" guys) that less than 200 Mustangs (non-Shelby) had the C4 installed. There is no way to tell, just enjoy it.

    From the other wine growing region, Northern California -

    Jim

  • Rust Removal smaller parts Eastwood tumbler

    Think about the smaller one, Eastwood 43204. It has a 8 inch and 10 inch bowl. There are not that many long items to clean that would require a 12 inch bowl. I've had mine for over ten years and mostly use the green pyramids with water and TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate - Home Depot). After about 4 hours of vibrating, I rinse the entire contents in cold water using a colander and then air dry the parts. A magnet is useful to fish out small stuff. This is the preliminary step before I sent off hardware to the platers. The "Dry Shine" media is not as effective and tends to be messy. The only other problem is that the pyramids get stuck in nuts and other parts with gaps and cavities.

    Jim

  • Time Machine

    Quote from zray

    we can't be thinking practical here, or we'll get nowhere fast. As in VW bug.


    Z.

    My daily driver since 1979 has been a not so stock 69 VW Baja so be careful about the practical stuff. It has a bit of acceleration but is primarily a "mudder".

    Jim

  • Driver's side remote mirror

    Charles make a great point about the removal and or realignment of the wing window frame, but that's not the problem or the question. Mine is factory installed (San Jose, Oct 65) and clears, not by much, but enough. On a new installation of a remote mirror, put down some masking tape and dry fit the mirror. Use a helper to hold it in place. Keep in mind that the base can move side to side enough to cause the window to hit if done wrong. Use some common sense. Remember Norm from "This Old House", measure twice, cut once. This is not rocket science.

    Jim

  • HiPo Choke Cable

    Quote from jwc66k

    There is a grommet for the choke cable, documented as 352963-S, 1/4in id, 3/4in mtg hole, 7/16in oa thk, split. An exact replacement source is vague. You might try an electronic parts store, plumbing store or hardware store for a similar item.

    Jim

    Read on Bob -

    Jim