Posts by jwc66k

Ever deal with an Auzzi - on the phone - from down under - during a NFL Sunday Night Football Game?

Jim

It's the old "two countries separated by a common language" thing again is it?

Jim

By interpulation (a Hi-Tech term), the scheduled built date would be Monday, January 18, 1965. If this block was from an "early" Shelby, it would have been snapped up by now by SAAC.

Jim

I used a combination of several chisels, long pry bars, pliers and side cutters with an occasional hammer (and some wine) to get the tabs open. Consider some new exhaust bolts from AMK while you are there. If the manifolds are removed (like to paint them), remember to put a spark plug with a spark plug socket on the plug in the last cylinder on each side to insure the socket will fit after tightening the bolts. In removing my RH manifold, I found easy access to the starter cable so I replaced it.

Jim

Go to AMK http://www.amkproducts.com/Catalog_PDF/109-127.pdf page 110.

Jim

Take a close look at the picture of the differential, the one where the drive shaft is missing. The VIN indicates a build date where the "GT" type exhaust was used for "K" cars. The brake line bracket is located in the position for a single exhaust car. Also note that almost all the pictures show no dual exhaust provisions. Like I said, an "automobile photoshop" - cut and paste.

Jim

Let me start - an "automobile photoshop".

Jim

Good question. But who are we to judge (pun intended)?

Jim

New plugs, points, an oil change and you need a new gonkulator. It all takes time.

Jim

I had a similar problem on another forum. The senior administrator was unaware that the site was down. That may be the problem with VMF as well. I found a name and number in Canada - Rob Laidlaw, 1-416-341-8590. You might want to pass that along to someone, I'm not a member of that forum.

Jim

All I can say is - a 49 Merc, chopped, channeled with a "flames" paint job and a flathead Ford tri-power. You don't do that for the resale.

Jim

Quote from tspiers

Been visiting this site for many years and recently have noticed that only the 'verts and fastbacks are coming to market. Being without a mustang going on 10 years, I now am once again able to afford a k-code, and my simple needs can not be found. Looking for your basic 4-speed koupe. Would be nice if numbers were matching, but we all know the koupes were the first to be raped and pillaged for the almighty shelby's. Please reply to post if you know of any decent koupes for sale.

Tom

I've stripped a lot of cars over the years, almost all makes, many different models, and a coupe of "K" hartops were included. The usable parts were sold to the guys with the money. I think that's still the way it works. Do I feel bad? No. Most of those cars were beyond drivability and certainly a restoration at that time would have been out of the question. Keep in mind that Mustangs in the mid 60's to the mid 70's were designed and built to be a car with a ten year life span. So were all the others in that era. You got to learn to live with it. Rapist or pillager? I prefer capitalist pirate.

Jim

The appropiate gasket usually comes with a new or rebuilt water pump, both cast iron and aluminum types. The cast iron type has the cover to gasket installed and you do not need to remove it. Ford replacement gasket part numbers are: al pump - C2OZ-8507-B; cast iron pump, to timing cover - C5AZ-8507-B; pump cover to pump - C5AZ-8513-A. You most likely will not find these part numbers on aftermarket gasket kits but the three numbers indicate three different gaskets. Many gasket kits include all three. When you mix in a 5.0 pump gasket, I think the pump design is different and not interchangable. The aluminum to cast iron pump change is documented as level 8 (L8), done from March to Aug 65. It also includes the timing cover.

Jim

Quote from iowa

the HiPo book states that some K cars did have cast iron pumps!

if one did have one of these,

or like the one on my son's '66,

does one just use 2 gaskets to re install?

thanks

iowa

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Read the text on page 30 of the HP book (4th ed).

Jim

Welcome to the forum. Where in the Bay State are you? I used to live in Chicopee.

Jim

No assembly line records exist as to specific builds like you are looking for. Ford destroyed all those records for cars built earlier than 1967 and any "official" numbers you find are marketing and sales figures. You can speculate, I've seen claims of 20 to 200 AT HP 66 Mustangs (excluding the 850 or there abouts GT350H Shelbys) and there are many hearsay claims of the special C4 transmisions found in non-HP cars (Falcons and Fairlanes included), so rare - sure, special - sure, valuable - sort of, restorable - you bet.

Jim

PS: There's a 66 GT Fastback with a C4 AT in my garage.

Insulator - yes. For early 66 (and 64-65), there are a right hand and left hand types, later 66 (and 68 on) are interchangable.

Lower mount type - no.

Jim

There's a change over date of 11/1/65 for 289 engine mounts, and I think that date applies to HP mounts as well. The 65-66 (early) HP mount has a special large bolt that runs through the insulators and end "plates", yours is a standard type. Reproduction insulators are available for all. On my Oct 65 build 66 hardtop, I converted to the later style. Be advised that 67 Mustang mounts and insulators are unique to 67 only, 68-70 small block mounts will work in 64-66 as a conversion.

Jim

It was on Craig's list out here last week, but with only three pictures. The car is located in East San Jose, CA (sort of like East LA), and has rims worthy of that particular area.

Jim

I've used K & N air cleaners for over 30 years mostly off road and they do improve performance and filter better than paper types. The only performance reference I have is from an old catalog that shows a K & N claim of improved air flow of about 70 pct, 508 cfm with a new paper, 887 cfm with a new K & N. The "tests" were done on a bow tie car.

Jim