Posts by jwc66k

  • Hipo exhaust manifold lock tabs

    Part of the problem faced by AMK is that Ford changed some of the hardware to a common type for all years as a service part. An example, the threads on most 64 to 66 oval head trim screws is "fine", 8-15, 10-12, etc, while the replacement hardware is "coarse", 8-18, 10-16, etc, which is what was used on the assembly line from 1968 on.

    Also many head markings used on bolts are not available as they are trademarked from suppliers that are out of business and the current holder of their title will not allow their propritary ID to be used.

    Then there is the little matter of quantity. Pal-Tinerman is willing to make new 5/16-18 rectangle nut clips like the type used on 64-66 hardtop and convertible quarter windows, 64-66 front valences and 64-66 front bumper guards if you want to buy a lot of half a million.

    And one more item as an example: there were only about 117,000 1965 and 1966 Fastbacks made by Ford and each one had a spring nut (380264-S2) retaining the trunk lid torsion bar on the RH side. Early 67 Fastbacks with the trunk lid torsion bar also used this spring nut. Originals were made by Pal. It is currently not available. Same situation, you want to buy 500,000 they will make them.

    AMK has made a lot of deals with hardware suppliers but the laws of supply and demand dictate what is practical.

    Jim

  • Windshield

    Thanks Brant. I guess the question is how much thinner. I measured my spare windshield (it looks like a March 72 replacement) and it's 0.256 in thick (right side and top measurements). Can anyone measure a current replacement?

    Jim

  • Windshield

    Sometime in the future I am going to have to replace the windshield on two of my cars. I have two friends faced with the same replacement. There seems to be no problem with glass suppliers putting the correct markings on the windshield but one potential problem has surfaced. I don't know of the validity of this but the report is that because of federal regulations and/or new manufacturing techniques, the new glass is thinner than the original. Has anyone found this to be true? If so, how much thinner? Does it make a difference as in sealing?

    Jim

  • Routing of Carb Choke Cable

    The routing, and a lot of other information, is depected in the Jim Osborn produced Mustang Assembly Manuals available from most Mustang parts suppliers. I highly recomend that you get a set. There are some that will say that the manuals are full of errors and that they are incomplete and to some extent that is true, but they are are better than nothing.

    Jim

  • Hipo exhaust manifold lock tabs

    Quote from Murf

    You will have to bend the tabs after installation, so probably having them coated with anything is worthless and will break the coating when the tabs are bent.

    Conventional wisdom dictates that concept, however - my powder coating guy told me of a VW owner that had his fenders powder coated (I said - 'what?'), and then tested their "durability" in a fender bender (whose fault was not mentioned). The powder coating was like a willow - bending in the wind - in other words, the powder coating survived, the fender did not. I can't answer for ceramic coating however.

    Jim

  • Hipo exhaust manifold lock tabs

    Powder coat is a dry polymer compound that uses fillers for effects (wrinkle, gold inset, etc) and is good to about 600F. Ceramic coat is the same but uses a ceramic based polymer filler for a higher temp rating. It is available in either a 900F or 1200F range. Both types are sprayed onto the parts that have an electrical charge placed on them so the sprayed powder sticks. Then the whole thing is baked. The nice thing is that the curing temp is considerbly less than the working temp. The clear ceramic is being reformulated as it had an adhering to the base ceramic problem.

    Jim

  • Exhaust Manifolds On or Off?

    All you need is a "tall lift" and three workers (not counting the chorus) to slip in the engine as shown. As I don't have a "tall lift", am short two workers (I do pay with beer for non-union slave labor) and my replacement for the chorus is a couple of speakers, I'll go the old fashioned way, transmission installed and exhaust manifolds off, but the assembly line procedure is noted, also the painting room.

    Jim

  • About to Kommit Power Steering Heresy

    E-bay, some Mustang Stores (NPD) and junk yards. You need the center link, pump bracket, pump and pullys. Almost everything else (hoses, rebuild kits, tie rod ends, ram, ram bracket) is available from Mustang stores. The hard part may be to install the nut inserts in the frame for the ram bracket. I'm replacing the 64 setup on my 65 GT ("A" code) so I almost started from where you are.

    Jim

  • New reproduction dual point plate ! USA made

    I held up an original plate and it's close, all holes line up. However, to the inside of the rectangular hole, there are three inline holes. On the original, the two at either end are "bosses" punched upward, not holes. I can't tell about the five tapped holes, but the two with the recesses appear to be a bit rough. Will it work? Proboably.

    Jim

  • 289 fender emblem placement

    I measured the front hole on the 289 emblem (emblem in place) of my 66 and would recomend the following: from the edge of the fender and the hood, 16 1/2 inches; from the edge of the fender and the headlight "door" (aka eyebrow) 5 1/2 inches. I picked the fender-hood point as that is the reference point least subject to vary. Do that mark first. The rear hole and HP emblem can be determined from the front hole point. The rear hole is parallel to the ground. This will get you within a eighth of an inch. Mask the area off with tape and "draw" in the 289 for a visual check. As a sanity check, I just checked my measurements.

    Jim