I just looked, 'Ford' is on the tach.
Jim
I just looked, 'Ford' is on the tach.
Jim
The one I got from NPD hooked up under the dash in the resistance wire circuit, not to the coil direct. It surprised me because one other car has the tach-coil wire requirement.
Jim
I put one of the repro Rally Pacs on my 65 GT (non-HP) that I got from NPD and I have no complaints. The tach wires up exactly the same as the original one (just like on my HP) and the rest of the wiring is the same as stock but the clock is a crystal controled (Whatever it is) type.
Do you know how to tell if a Rally Pac is original? The clock don't work.
Jim
Depending on how much repairing you need to do, consider a boat epoxy repair kit. The one I got has several colors included. I got it to fix some cracks on my console and to fix a crack in my shower stall. To be truthful, it would seem to me that paint on a steering wheel would be a lost cause.
Jim
There seems to be apples and oranges here. The PCV hose is from the right hand valve cover to the carburetor base and is available from NPD and maybe others. It may of may not have the correct marking. The right hand hose is routed from the oil filler cap to the air cleaner and is not reproduced for HP engines. The part number for that hose is C4TE-6355-F and was used on HP engines thru 67.
Jim
The entire tube is painted the interior color right into the engine compartment.
There are repair kits for steering wheels (Eastwood maybe?) that have colors with them. I've got two black interior cars and one 'Pony' interior car with a wood grain wheel so I've never had to deal with colors.
Jim
According to 'Mustang Does It' by Ray Miller, 4.9 percent of 1965 Mustangs came with a vinyl top, 11.5 pct in 66. It does add a touch of class to any car.
Jim
The glass is different, shorter on a convertible to match the door window. All the internals are the same except for the weatherstrip.
Jim
It's called 'Charcoal Black' in some publications and 'semi-gloss black' in others. The Charcoal Black has two slightly different 'glosses' between 64-66 and 67 on up, with the latter having a more metallic base. I've used the aftermarket 64-66 black and found it to be so close to semi-gloss or satin labeled paints by Krylon (or others) that they are almost interchangeable. If the dash is painted with one type and the door with another (without overspray), you are hard pressed to see the difference.
Jim
The recomended is 20 to 40 percent gloss black, which equates to either satin black or semi-gloss black. Keep in mind that certain parts were dipped and hung to dry, mostly brackets, while others were sprayed. On pulleys, after I bead blast them, I wrap masking tape around the groves several times, then spray. This is close to the 'rubber band' mask Ford used and looks original when installed.
Jim
National Parts Depot has them listed for $279.95 each and as a kit for $359.95. I don't know the quality of that particular version, but I got a reconditioned one several years back, I need a core charge, and except for two of the rivets that look like crap, everything else was great.
Jim
The actual name is Shop Manual not Service and reproductions are available at NPD http://www.npdlink.com for $46.95 or on CD for $54.95, probably other mail order stores too.
Jim
The carburetor differences are detailed in the 1966 Mustang Service Manual. The dashpot itself is available new, sometimes, or e-bay. Use e-bay for pictures. The bracket is best found in a junk yard on all 221, 260 and 289 engines with an automatic. It is a gentle right angle bend.
Jim
The bad news is - you can't. The good news is - there is a company that will do it for a nominal fee of course. I can't remember their name but I think they were located on the east coast.
Jim
Take a look at Rhode Island Wiring http://www.riwire.com/ in their 'Supplies' section under 'Metal and Non-Metal Conduit. They have a variety of diameters under a heading called 'Non-Metallic Autoloom Black' that may fit the bill.
Jim
All 65 and 66 'K' cars came with a dual exhaust system so they all have the frame rail reinforcements. That's why a 'K' GT is easier to fake.
Jim
There are actually two oversprays on the underside, the body color and the pinch weld 'black' out. The body was painted by workers (sober or not) so is more random underneath. The pinch weld was machine painted after the body so should be on top of body color but more even. Suposedly, dark body cars were not given the pinch weld treatment, but I was told by a San Jose paint shop worker that they did it anyway.
Jim
You're welcome.
Jim
This falls under the catagory 'if you make enough mistakes, you can decode someone elses'.
I will bet that the tag reads 'WCZ-3' on the first line and '2.80 5AB 911' on the second. Note the spaces. All that means is you have an 8 inch Mustang rear axle used on 65 to 67 Mustangs with a ratio of 2.80:1 made in the second week of January in 1965 (5AB). The 911 is the plant code - what ever that code relates to.
Jim
It shouldn't be hot. It's a capacitor (new name for a condenser) and it's properties are to block DC voltages and pass certain AC voltages. If it's hot, it's passing DC and I would remove it immediately.
Jim