Posts by jwc66k

Bo,

No button on the body, but there is the hole in the bracket. As to the car, I got the coil from a friend in Mustang salvage business out of the pile of coils.

Jim

One of my loose coils has a code of '3 G', the other, with the original Ford part number stamp still legible and its 'mirror' image transfered to the bracket, shows a date code of '5CBC' and the code on the top of '4 B'.

Jim

Steven,

A more detailed source is the 'Mustang Production Guide, Vol 1,' by Jim Smart and Jim Haskell, that narrows the scheduled build date to 01M to 03M, the 1st to the 3rd of December, 1965. Unfortunately the book is out of print and every time I e-mail Jim Smart, I add a line to get Vol 1 revised.

Jim

Both hidden VIN's are in the same place on opposite sides about 8 to 10 inches in front of the rear edge of the hood, a little in front of the hood hinge. If you were lucky, the VIN gets stamped out of place and can be partially visible. I saw a GT-350 'R' model last week with the VIN and the stamped Shelby VIN both visibe on the right hand side.

Jim

If the area at the rear of the wheel well is clean and has no undercoating, you may be able to see the VIN by using a flashlight and a mirror, otherwise the fender has to come off. There is a third stamped number on the left hand fender apron in roughly the same place as the one on the right side, also hidden by the fender.

Jim

The pin is the easy part, it's the standard Ford pin used on almost all Ford manual and automatic transmissions, p/n 352358-S2, and is available from AMK products, 4 for $3.00. The two wavy washers are not reproduced by AMK and I would imagine, not stocked by Ford dealers - p/n 358980-S or 358573-S (service part). They are described as 7/16 dia, 0.468in ID, 0.840in OD (or 0.750 for the service), and 0.031in thk, single wave. AMK does not even have anything close. At this stage, a junkyard may be the best bet unless someone knows of a 'metric' equalivent.

Jim

It is possible that those markings are 'mold' identifiers. That's the only reason I can think of based on letters and numbers I've seen while in the electronics industry.

Jim

A couple of questions first:

1. What type of wiring for the tachometer does your Rally Pac have?

That may be difficult to answer, but there are two different types; an in-line connection that goes between the ignition switch and the resistance wire (Ford's original setup and newer aftermarket types); and the type that requires a wire to the coil (some aftermarket types).

2. Do you have an under dash harness? This provides power to the clock, dash illumination to the lights, ground and the tach wiring. If your tach is of the type that hooks up to the coil, you will need to do some modifications to this harness to get switched 12V.

Jim

Andrew,

I will admit I had to look it up in the Gregory Hi-Po book, but it seems they have a different Ford part number than standard flywheels and different part numbers for 64 to 66 (I would assume 63 as well), and late 66 and 67, but there is no visible difference. I don't know what that means. Here's the casting numbers which should be visible on the flywheel:

64-66 C3OE-6380-B before 7/01/66

66-67 C3OZ-6380-B from 7/01/66 to 10/010/66

67 C7ZE-6380-A from 10/01/66

The Ford Car Parts books more or less confirm the above with the service part numbers. All are supposed to be 157 tooth type, but the 65 Fairlane has a 164 tooth flywheel.

Jim

Quote from rockhouse66

quote:I put one of them, a 6,000 rpm version, on my 65, a non-'K' car, and it looks like, and wires like the original that's on my 'K' car.

OK, my last try, I promise. Is the one you installed the '65 style or the '66 style?

TIA

It is what is refered to as the 65-66 style, aka low profile and looking back on my previous posts, I see I did not state what style I had. My 65 GT is a May build and that was the correct one.

Jim

That rubber strip was standard on 6 cylinder cars for 64 to 66.

Jim

Could you take another look at the tag? The 'C' part of the 550 is not listed in my reference materials, but that is not unusual. That last letter code ment what type of options, AT vs MT, A/C, P/S etc, and I've run across a few not listed.

Jim

Actually the NPD catalog (2007 pg 12) states 'wires through the coil circuit.' I put one of them, a 6,000 rpm version, on my 65, a non-'K' car, and it looks like, and wires like the original that's on my 'K' car. You disconnect the bullet connector of red wire from the ignition switch to the resistance wire and plug in the appropiate Rally Pac tach wires. Works fine.

Jim

Put the boot out in the hot sun for about half an hour. Use dish soap to 'lube' the shaft.

Jim

If it's a five bolt, it may be a 64 'D' code. The date code is the 4-D, indicating an April, 64, build. The 550 can be a 'D' code (550 or a 65 'C' code (550 J). Code 550 C is not listed.

Jim

I had a similar problem with a new setup. I pulled the remanufactured pressure plate and had it rebuilt. That was the cure. Tough love but it's a real world.

Jim

Try http://www2.nadaguides.com follow the link on muscle cars.

Jim

The 'tachman' (http://www.tackman.com) link don't work.

Jim

That carb is for a HP with a C4 (also GT-350H), and the date code is impossible - 1963? I don't think so.

Jim

It's been too long, but the undercarriage on my 64 Fairlane Sports Coupe was red primer and the dash was interior color, red, not the exterior color, black. I remember the first part of the VIN was 4K47K and I think that's Kansas. I'll root around and see if I got some old pictures of the car. What I do remember, it was a 'Goat' (GTO) killer.

Jim