Posts by jwc66k

    Depending on what year you have, the aftermaket replacement works fine (ref NPD 2007 Pg 9, 013016-3A, $229.95). For a 66, it's 100 pct complete. For an early 65, the front piece that has the bumpers, is different. For 67 on, the latch pieces are completely wrong even though the left hand side is included. To get your set completely re-chromed, figure on between $500 and $800. For my 65 Fastback, I made up a batch of parts to be chromed that met the shops minimum ($150) from a 67 Fastback (4 pieces) plus a few other items.

    Jim

    E-mail Jim Smart at Mustang Monthly and 'strongly' urge him to put out Rev 2 of the Mustang Production Guide, Vol 1. He's a senior editor of the magazine and is the co-author of the Mustang Production Guide along with Jim Haskell. With every e-mail I send Smart, I ask him 'when?'. Oh, I have an autographed copy of Vol 1 signed by Smart and you will find my name in the Vol 2 credits.

    Jim

    Quote from gtk66

    66 has a extra rib,they are in the area where the jack instruction sticker goes,they run from center bottom corner to top outside corner,sort of like a "v".

    I looked at my 65 and 66 Fastbacks trunk lids and you are correct, they are different. The 66 has an extra 'V' shaped 'rib'. Build date on the 65 Fastback is 5/11/65, the 66 is 10/18/65 if someone else wants to narrow down a transition date.

    Jim

    Those are all Ford service part numbers and are used as inventory reference only. Ford used a casting part number for the raw unmachined part which was cast on the item, a different part number for the machined part and it was not cast on the item, a different part number for a sub-assembly (when necessary) and a different part number for a complete assembly. To consolidate all the variations for service purposes, to replace a customers engine for example, a different part number was assigned. Those part numbers have (for the most part) a 'Z' in the fourth position of the part number, C5AZ, and that can be used to identify who in the Ford heirarchy has responsibility for the item. There are too many variations to list.

    Jim

    I bead blast mine and paint them with McKay Graphite Spray. When they dry, they look almost new, and after they have been on a car and heated, they still look original. Eastwood manifold paint, and almost all the other paints, look - well, painted, as in crap.

    Jim

    I just took a look at my 66 K with a C4 and the choke cable comes thru a 3/4 inch dia hole with its center located 4 inches down from the firewall-cowl weld and about a 1/4 inch to the left of the left most firewall to shock tower brace (aka export) bolt hole. The cable for the back-up and AT neutral/park starting circuit is located above the connector for the engine gauge feed on the firewall.

    Jim

    Fenders, and most other sheet metal parts, are stamped with month, day, shift (all numeric) and stamping plant (a letter - it is often missing). It would look like this - "4 15 2 D" indicating April 15th, second shift, Dearborn Stamping. The only 'numbers matching' you can get from this is all parts have to have been made at least a week prior to the scheduled build date on the door data plate.

    Jim

    The assembly date code is stamped on the metal identification tag that is usually attached to one of the mounting studs on the left hand side of the carrier. Typically in a rebuilt, the tag is the first thing to be discarded.

    Jim

    The total number of automatic 'K' code Mustangs I've heard was about 200, not including the GT-350H cars. I was also told by a former San Jose assembly plant supervisor that Ford marketing overestimated the sales of the C4-HP combination and as a result many of the performance C4 transmissions wound up in Fairlanes and Falcons.

    As to performance, I used to be part of the conventional wisdom that believed that two identically equipped cars except one with a manual transmission the other with an automatic, that the manual would beat the automatic in a quarter mile. That probably applied back in the 60's and 70's but not any more.

    Oh, and for the record, I have a C-4 'K' Fastback.

    Jim

    Yup, the plugs need to come out. I recomend a 1/2 inch deep wall socket with a three inch extension for the front pairs and a one inch extension for the rear pairs. The odds are that on your first attempts, you will knock one of the nuts off the socket and it will rattle around inside the platform for a while until you get a 'claw' to fish it out.

    Jim