My 'original registered in California, Oct, 65 build, K Fastback' has 'RCX' as the first three letters. California spread plates all over the state so I would think that a plate starting with 'P' thru 'T' would be with-in reason for November, 65. Keep in mind that old 'black plates' are not reissued by the state nor are they recognized without a bunch of paperwork and bureaucratic run-around (including 'no' as a final answer). There are ways to do it however.
Jim
When in doubt, read the instructions. If it says hook the orange wire up to a battery voltage, I would hook it up to a battery voltage. Just don't go hog wild and cut and splice. A convenient hot all the time terminal point is the back of the cigar lighter. Use a number 8 stud ring lug on the screw thread on back of the lighter and shove the connector back on for the orange wire. It should hold. If you want to be real trick, use a number 6 stud and tap it with an 8-32 tap. The red should go to the screw terminal on back of the ignition switch. Removal of the instrument cluster makes hookups easy.
Jim
The 66 hood latch has only one nut clip at the rear where the 64 and 65 have two (ref the third picture). The radiator bracket is different to accomodate the difference.
Jim
Let me add some more uses for DSO 89, the 'b-plan' being one. Certain Ford employees could lease a Ford (or Mercury) at a monthly rate that was so cheap as to be almost a givaway. Certain other top management types could lease two Fords as a benefit and the ones at the very top got theirs at no cost. In many instances, the cars were delivered to the facility of record, prepared for use and serviced there as well. The real kicker was that insurance was included in the monthly rate. I use as an example, Ford Aerospace in Palo Alto, Ca, where there was a service center. At the end of the lease year, any employee could 'tag' that lease car turn-in and purchase it.
There is another plan, the 'z-plan', used for retired Ford employees but that plan uses a dealer and the regular DSO system.
Jim
The reason why driveshafts were marked was to distinguish between the different applications. It might help to know what yours is. You can look in the book 'The 289 High Performance Mustang' by Tony Gregory for the HP markings (I don't want to spoil a sale otherwise I would tell you).
Jim
Price is $8,900? Me thinks it's scam. 
I've seen this car before, same ad, same pictures, same price. The location at that time was Santa Cruz, Ca. The contact phone number was elsewhere but I don't remember where. The 402 area code is Eastern Nebraska.
Scam - you bet.
Jim
As far as the interior not according to my friends book. Those choices that I stated above were the only colors in pony for a red car.
I owned a 66 'A' code hardtop that came from the factory in 'Springtime Yellow', code 8, and with a 'Parchment and Black' interior, code F9, a combination not listed in the standard interior and without a special DSO. Ford was interested in selling cars and color combinations were the least of their worries. A 'Rangoon Red' and a 'Pony' White and Red interior are not outside the realm of possibility. A red car with a yellow interior or a red car with a blue interior would probably not make it past the the order desk.
Jim
Using fingers, 'A' is January, 'B' is February, etc. I know you guys 'down under' need to hang on or you'll fall off and talk funny but your 'A', 'B', 'Z's' should be the same (oops, 'Z' is pronounced 'Zed', not 'Zee').
Jim
My hardware references are:
- 1966 Ford Products Engine Equipment Assembly Manual, AM0156 Pg 126 for shroud to bracket installation.
- 1965 Mustang Body Assembly Manual, AM0006 Pg 11 for standard radiator installation.
- AMK Products Guide to Ford Fasteners, Pgs 41, 75, 149, 202 and 212.
- AMK Products also lists a Radiator Fan Shroud kit, p/n F-399 consisting of 8 pieces for 1965 and a different kit for 1966, p/n F-401 also consisting of 8 pieces. I believe the items supplied are the 4 screws and nut clips that attach the shroud to the brackets. The description for the 65 hardware is 'AB' which is the sheet metal type. The description for the 66 hardware is 'T1' which may be the blunt tip 1/4-20x1/2hex screw. This implies a different type of hardware for 65 and 66 which may not be consistant with MCA rules, but MCA has been known to be wrong before.
- There is a third kit, p/n F-396 consisting of 8 pieces used for both 1965 and 66, for attaching all radiators to the radiator support.
Having done business with AMK, they have been more accurate with the hardware they have supplied than other sources. There are a few discrepancies in the items supplied however - they use the service parts instead of the original. Keep in mind that AMK supplies hardware and kits to most Mustang parts suppliers.
Jim
I got a set of repro bumpers for a 65 Fastback and found them to be at the best, moderately ok. The problem was the edges were rough with sharp pieces of metal sticking up, enough to cut fingers if you were dumb enough to rub them on the edge (I wasn't). This was a result of the stamping process and from either worn out tooling or poor new tooling. The size, finish and fit were good, no twists, no problems with the mounting holes. I put a coat of wax on them before installation which provided me with the opportunity for a detailed inspection.
On the other hand, a friend that restores brand 'C' stuff told me of a local bumper chrome shop that could be named 'the Little Shop of Horrors' (grind marks, pits, plating that did not stick). Three returns for rework and the bumpers are still not done right.
However, I still think the better way to go is with your old bumpers and a reputable chrome shop.
Jim
Hello members , still looking for 8000 rpm Low Profile Tacho with correct FORD Font in Tacho face , i know you can buy new unit , however im told the Tacho Face does not have the wording FORD on dial, HELP.
Thanks
Shane,
Who ever told you about the wording was incorrect (and don't listen to them anymore). I got a Rally Pac from National Parts Depot earlier this year and the tach has FORD printed on it. To make sure of this, go to http://www.npdlink.com/ and send them an e-mail asking about the wording. I know that earlier versions were of lower quality but the NPD unit is almost (quartz clock) the same as an original.
Jim
Welcome to 'up here'.
It depends on what repro Rally Pac you get. The one I recently got from National Parts Depot wired the same as the original, inline between the ignition switch and the resistance wire behind the instrument cluster. There is a connection at the switch. That one went on my 65 GT 'A' code Fastback. I have an original 8k RPM Rally Pac on my 66 GT 'K' Fastback that wires that way. I also have an older repro one that picks up the signal from the negative terminal of the coil and that type requires a wire run thru the firewall. Neither type of hook-up should have any devastating voltages present but I have stock distributors on both cars. I haven't got around to seeing what will work with a Pertronix ignition system.
Jim
Quote from round2KCan anyone tell me the part numbers for the fan shroud fasteners where they attach to the radiator brackets? I'm trying to order appropriate screws/washers/clips where the shroud meets the clips and can't seem to find part numbers in either the Olson or MPC books.
Finish on the fan shroud brackets: it looks like they may have had a black anodizing or were they dipped gloss black?
Finish on the radiator petcock: were they painted with the radiator or natural?
There's not too much good news here on the shroud bracket hardware. What I've found on my 'K' car was this: the 5/16-18 nut clip that was originally installed on the radiator was put on the shroud bracket and the original 5/16-18 screw came thru the radiator support to hold the radiator to the bracket. There was a second 1/4 nut clip on the opposite end of the bracket for shroud retention with a 1/4 screw. Notice the apparent lack of specifics. Time has replaced a lot of parts. Ford assembly documentation is missing for 'K' cars so the best info is for the air conditioning setup which is also lacking. Only one of the hardware items is available from AMK Products, the 1/4 nut clip.
Here are the various Ford hardware part numbers, descriptions and use:
- 378180-S2 5/16-18x3/4 hex screw, washer head, serrated, lead point, radiator support, radiator to bracket
- 380020-S2 5/16-18 nut clip, .96L, .67W, attached to bracket
- 39881-S8 1/4-20x1/2 hex screw, washer head, thread forming, from shroud to bracket
- 375803-S2 1/4-20 nut clip, 1.08L, .56W, attached to bracket
What I've found for the shroud to the bracket was:
- 31497-S8 14-14x1/2 hex sheet metal screw, washer head
- The nut clip was the 'U' type and I don't have a part number.
Anybody else got some input?
Jim
Something I've tried and it seems to clean up cast iron fairly well, it's called Krud Kutter. You can get it in the paint department of Home Depot. The primary use is to remove paint, but grease, oil and Krud (pardon the 'K's') come off. I've used it on a 67 top loader that was not going to be rebuilt in a restoration I was assisting on, it was just 'kruddy'. The only warning is to not leave on to it too long on painted surfaces - it is a paint remover. Works great on kitchen cabinets too.
Jim
I was digging through my attic today and came across an autolite 4100 I acquired about 10 years ago when building a 61 Thunderbird. As I recall the carb is from a K mustang. The unit has a mechanical choke and still wears the original Ford stamped tag.
What car did this carburetor come from? A 66 K car?
Tag reads; C6ZF-C
A 5HE
On the side it has the 1.12 indicating venturi size and there is a small number 3 above the 1.12 symbol. The front driver mounting flange has a 6ZC stamped onto it. A number 34 appears on the rear passenger mounting flange. A date of 11-5-63 is cast into the bottom, possibly the date the mold was made?
This site has been great to check out, the wealth of information is amazing!
Thanks for the help.
Pat.
Pat,
You have a 1966 Mustang 4100 HP carb made in the last week of August, 1965, that's the '5HE' date code. The 'A' before the '5HE' is the revision. That carb was also used on 1967 HP cars with an appropiate date code. The rest of the cast in numbers are size - 1.12, original cast date - 11-5-63 and the mold number - 34. The '6ZE' is the short version of the tag part number, C6ZF-C. Naturally, there are more associated part numbers, the full one - C6ZF-9510-C, the service part number - C4OZ-9510-F, the replacement number - C4OZ-9510-G and probably some others less known.
Jim
Jim
With the seat (or seats - don't be lazy) out and the console cover plate off, the console should fit easy. Place the console at an angle over the shifter opening and then straighten it out over the 'hump'. I don't bother with the front bracket, it goes under the carpet and a sticks up thru a slot cut in the carpet - a pain in the ***. If you locate the existing holes and place an alignment pin in a couple of them (an appropiate size nail works just fine) that helps. An ice pick make hole alignment easy as well. Remember, the wiring need to be hooked up either when you first set the console in or definately before you screw it down.
Jim
I am also looking for a C6OE-A water pump, either rebuilt or rebuildable.
Jim
The best way is to go to the magazine's website http://www.mustangmonthly.com/ find the 'Contact Us' link and send an e-mail to the editor 'attn: Jim Smart' with you request.
Jim
That is the correct hole size used only on 67 and 68 convertibles. The part number is 377865-S8. It is a metal plug 3 1/4 inches in diameter and 27/64 inches in height to crimp in place. I don't know the thickness of the material used but it is plated steel. You might try http://www.perogie.com/ or http://www.mustangokla.com/ to see if they have any.
Jim
Quote from round2KDid these costs include any of the other parts; piano hinge, latch knob, seat rests?
The new chrome set consists of 13 pieces including the hinge. There are 4 trim pieces per each of the three sections. The set does not include the latch or bumper cups/bracket. Consider this: buy the repro set and have the unique 65 front piece re-chromed. That should be about $70 to $80. If the shop you use has a minimum or lot charge, find another 65 Fastback owner that needs that piece done and that may make the minimum.
Note: the sheet metal screws that are used to attach the trim are coarse thread (52352-S13, 8-15X5/8 Oval Head, 5/16 dia head) which are not readily available. The available replacement is a fine thread screw (8-18X5/8 Oval Head, 5/16 dia head).
Jim
