Posts by jwc66k

  • qtr glass removal and replacement

    Unfortunately there is no single great source for info. There are several books that, together, fill the gaps. Try 'How to Restore Your Mustang' by Larry Dobbs and Donald Farr; 'Mustang Restoration Handbook' by Don Tsylor & Tom Wilson from HP Books (it may be out of print); and the '1966 Mustang Assembly Manuals' published by Jim Osborn Publications (Body; Interior; Electrical; Engine; use the 64 1/2-65 for Chassis and Weld and Sealant) They are copies of original Ford assembly line documentation and are 95 pct complete. Most are available from mail order parts houses.

    Jim

    (Got to learn how to spel gud)

  • rusted cowl

    National Parts Depot - 2008 catalog page 184, $166.95. For a 65-66 (64 is implied), they state minor modifications required for a lower panel from a 67-68 cowl. As the lower panel is 'hidden', why not, if you can remove the upper without damage and reinstall it. I doubt you can find a lower cowl 'doner' panel in good shape anyway.

    Jim

  • Did 66 GTs come with 3 speeds

    Quote from GR75

    hey i didnt think you guys would care about mpg over there, you wouldnt like it here petrol costs £1.05 a litre which is $2.10 a litre in your money

    In the US of A, we use an archaic measurment system developed in Merry Old England where liquids, like gasoline, are sold by the gallon. At 3.78 liters (we spell that different too) per gallon, the cost of UK gasoline would be $7.49 per gallon. That just might start the second American Revolution.

    Happy New Year.

    Jim

  • Needed: 66 Rear Axle Assy 3.50:1 Limited Slip

    The second line is incomplete. The '50' should read '3.50'. The rest is messy as well - '5L8' or 'B' or it might be a '3'. That would equal - 1965, Nov and the third week, the '3'. The third character could only be a 1 thru 5, indicating the week. The '980' is the plant code and I don't have any info on where that was. If it was a limited slip, it would read 'WCZ-T' on the top line, and '3L50' on the second plus the appropiate remainder.

    Jim

  • Question About Carburetor Tag

    Quote from Bill G

    Hi K Code Experts:


    I'm trying to decipher the second row of digits on my two carburetor tags. They are "B 5AD" and "A 4JD". Both cars are 65's. I'm not sure if these represent build dates or what. If anyone can decipher these I would really appreciate it. Thank guys.

    The 'B' and 'A' are revisions. I don't have any info as to what was revised but if you are interested, try Jon at http://www.ponycarburetors.com

    Jim

  • Exhaust Manifold finish??

    A lasting true color is not easy to get. Original manifolds were natural and any paint will look 'painted'. A recomended coating I use is called McKay Graphite Spray after beadblasting. After the spray dries, the manifolds look black then turn gray when used, whick is very close to the original cast iron shade. Eastwood has some spray paint hi-temp coatings but I haven't used them.

    Jim

  • '65 - '66 Quarter Vent Gaskets

    According to the Ford Car Parts illustration for 65-66 Fastback's 'air extractor', there is no separate seal/gasket. It must be part of the assembly and not spared or serviced. A trip to Home Depot (or Orchard Supply as I see you're in Cal) may be in order.

    Jim

  • '65 - '66 Quarter Vent Gaskets

    No gasket was used on the vents, only some 1/4 dia inch caulking all the way around. Use some 3M strip caulk. I've also found reminents of some wide tape, maybe 1 1/2 inch wide, on the body at the top of the vent holes on a 66. I haven't got into doing the interiors on my two current cars.

    Jim

  • DISTRIBUTOR I.D.

    Quote from chucks302

    This is not a hi-po distributor but would like to identify it ,i know its a ford motorcraft reman small block ford 302 distributor .the casting number on the lower shaft case is C9ZF 12131 A ,the casting number next to the motorcraft casting near the top cap hold down clip is 12127.it has the extra lower shaft bushing, dual vacume advance,a ford dura spark pickup, the only date code is 75 with 9 small dots in a circle at the bottom of the dist case below the o ring area which is sept 1975, the dist gear has purple paint on it. thanks for the help in advance.

    Part number C9ZF-12131-A is exactly what you state, a casting number. What goes in front of and follows the 12127 is the application part number. Look real carefully at the prefix and suffix of 12127. It was stamped at assembly and may be very faint. Many distributor rebuilders beadblast the hell out of the housing in their process. They should be taken out and shot. The date code is located under that number and may be faint too.

    Jim

  • please review/edit my facts

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    How sure are you that the exhaust system was factory installed rather than the dealer taking it to a local muffler shop and having duals installed before you took delivery? It would be great if you had more proof.

    In a previous post, somebody stated most people buy a car off the lot. I've owned nine new cars in my lifetime and eight were ordered, as in 'not bought off the lot'. My 66 Mustang was the second car I ordered car so I had a bit of experience in ordering. I know what options were listed on the order sheet: 289 engine with a 4 barrel carb; 4 speed; dual exhaust; heavy duty suspension; console; no radio. The owner of the dealership (Harold Kent Ford, Springfield, Mass) was a distant relative so I had an 'in'. I was there when the car was unloaded from the truck and saw what was there. What else can I say?

    Jim

  • please review/edit my facts

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    Bob:


    I have a copy of the April 1965 Dealer Mustang Price list, which shows the updated prices (including the GT equipment group). On this price list as the previous, there is no price listed for dual exhaust as a separate item. Dual exhaust is not even listed under the Cobra High Performance Kits section. I do not see how it would be possible to get dual exhaust from the factory on any other 65/66 Mustang besides any K code or an A-code GT.

    Not only did I have a special order 'A' code with factory dual exhaust, I took the car to a speed shop and had them remove the 'H' pipe cross-over and weld in a pair of cut-outs. It sounded cool. Hey, I was 24, traded in a 64 Fairlane 500 Sportscoupe 'K' car for the Mustang and wanted the 'sounds'. I also carried a lime green 16 foot canoe on roof racks on that Signalflare Red Fastback when I went white-water canoeing.

    Jim

  • please review/edit my facts

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    Yes, yes... you guys got me there! Of course I meant the exhaust portion beyond the H-pipe.


    jwc66k: The only way possible to get factory dual exhaust on any 65-66 A code 289 was if it was a GT car.

    Not true. As I said, it was a special order 1966 non-GT 'A' code engine Fastback built in Metuchen. If your statement was true, then there were no non-dual exhaust Mustangs in 1964 1/2 thru March of 65 (the intro of the GT option) and the Performance Image Option (dual exhaust) was bogus. Sorry - you're incorrect.

    Jim

  • please review/edit my facts

    Quote from toolbox

    Couldn't you order dual exhaust as an option on any V8 engine?

    When I ordered my 66 Fastback in January of 1966, the only engine that was factory equipped with dual exhausts as an option was the 'A' code. The 'K' codes came with duals as standard, the 'C' code could not be ordered with duals. In 1964, the 260cid engine did not come with duals either. I assume that in 1965, the policy was the same as in 1966. No telling what dealers did though.

    Jim

  • heater core removing

    Quote from BoS

    Bad news, but I think you need to remove the

    complete heater box.

    /Bo

    No truer words spoken. You can remove the heater cover while installed but getting it back on is next to impossible.

    The best way is to cut the hoses in the engine compartment and make a heater elimination loop, undo the four nuts around the blower then do the inside stuff.

    There are three control cables that need to slide off the control arms, one on the defroster deflector in the middle and the two on the box itself. There is one 14-14 x 1 1/2 hex head sheet metal type screw in the upper right hand side of the box that attaches it to the dash. It's to the right of the glove box liner. Be careful in removal as the defroster deflector (aka plenum) is made of cardboard.

    I assume that the core leaks. I recomend as long as you are there to replace the hoses and get a gasket set to rebuild the insides. Forty two plus years takes its toll.

    Jim

  • Trunk hinge bolts

    rockhouse66 is 100 pct correct, the trunk lid is painted on the car, therefore the hardware is body color. The same applies to the doors, painted body color. All the attaching hardware for the lid and doors are phosphated and oiled prior to installation - so after installation, who can tell.

    Jim