The repro coil is missing a letter located between the two screw terminals on the top. I think it's a mold identifier. There is no part number stamped on the metal body either. When a decal is used, it looks like a decal, not a stamp. That's the difference between original and the expensive repro coils. I can't give any info on the cheap one.
Jim
You need the car's build year and month for the stamping info and that has a direct correlation to your VIN. The month should be on the door data tag. If you have some questions, get me your VIN via e-mail and I'll see if I can help. Marti auto usually can figure it out but you better be sure on what you order and get.
Jim
A T-10 popping out of 2nd and 3rd gear on deceleration on a 64 Fairlane Sports Coup 'K' car - that was normal in 1964. Ford replaced the syncros on mine as it happened within the 90 day warranty period. I was lucky enough to watch as I had to replace them about a year later. I kept the car for two years and that transmission was the only problem I had. Thirtyfive years later, I bought a 66 Mustang GT Fastback with a factory T-10 but it didn't have any problems. As long as you don't abuse the transmission and don't put a strain on it, it will last - but not in a 'K' car.
Jim
Thank you for your service.
Jim - USN
The 67 windshield washer system uses a plastic fluid container attached to the LH fender apron by three screws. No bag, no bracket, no welding.
Jim
Let me give you the good news first. The control knob is located on the delux door panel by a partially cut opening in the panel. There is no such predetermined mark on the standard panel. The cable has to go thru a hole near the front inside of the door, so remove the door panel and cut a hole in it to match the hole in the door.
The bad news: the mirror meeds to be located on the door so it will clear the wing window. The mounting base of the remote mirror is oriented to the rear and the mounting base of the standard mirror is oriented to the front. If you eyeball the the position of the remote type to clear the wing, this leaves the front hole of the standard mirror exposed, about three inches in front of where the remote should go. The right hand mirror has the same 'extra' hole if you had a RH standard before. The door fix - bondo and paint.
Jim
Per http://www.google.com entering 'ecoating' in the advanced search (there are about 88,800 'hits'), here's one - http://www.finishing.com/116/94.shtml
Jim
It's a lot easier to make a new door data plate look old and junky than an old and junky door data plate look new. That same technique applies to a lot of things.
Jim
Go to http://www.martiauto.com and do a look-see. Kevin will make a new plate, especially if you have the old one. As to silkscreening a new background, difficult.
Jim
Don't forget to get the six carriage bolts and the six nuts that hold the shock tower brackets to the shock towers, and the four bolts that retain the front shocks to the brackets plated clear zinc; and paint the shocks semi-gloss black.
Jim
April 8, 1965, a Thursday, +/- 1.
Jim
The simple answer is no. The bench seat was a 1965 option for the Mustang hardtops and convertibles. The 260 was a 1964 engine which was not used in 1965. The door data tag would also read 'BODY 76C' as well, but that code was not used in 1964.
Jim
After you remove everything visible, get on your back (a creeper helps) with a with brush, wire wheel on a drill, several bottles of a spray cleaner (I like Krud Kutter from Home Depot but there are others), time and a lot of elbow grease. The second option it to pay some one else to do it, like 'on-the-job training'.
Jim
I have a 66 hartdop 'A' code with same situation as yours, mine is missing the VIN in the left hand fender notch. This is not unusual for a 40 year old plus Mustang, they don't last forever. On mine, you can see the tack welds from the fender apron to the radiator support on both side where a new apron section was installed. As long as the 'pink slip' (aka ownership documents) agree with the two stamped number, you are OK. There is a fourth VIN number located on the door data tag, and that's it. Keep in mind that the numbers were stamped by a worker who may or may not have been interested, sober or paying attention. Crooked stampings are normal, mis-stamps are rare but happened. Some owners have cut out the numbers stamped on the right hand side and re-welded them to the 'notch' area. (Don't forget to 'fill-in' the cut out hole.)
Jim
The 65-66 Mustang disc brake master cylinder and cap were first used on T-Birds, and also used on full size Fords.
Jim
Try coming in from the left of the stering column. If you are a 'large', get some help from someone smaller. It helps if the seat is out.
Jim
You're right about one thing, it IS red. I had a 66 'A' code fastback in signal flare red as well and the color is more red than the Ford color 'poppy red' but not as dark as 'rangoon red'. In 'How To Restore Your Mustang' by Larry Dobbs there are color samples that show what it should be, at least the older edition had them. The only GT stripes were white.
Jim
Quote from CharlesTurnerThe rear bumper brackets were semi-gloss black with cad plated nut inserts.
The nut clips are phosphated and oiled.
Jim
A friend went thru this about three years ago. A used 'turn-signal' type hood itself was not difficult to find but the pot metal inserts were. Most of the inserts were broken (you can't really fix them with JB weld) or there were 'dimples' left in the metal from the studs being installed too tight. A descent wiring harness and all the attaching hardware was also difficult to locate. There are a couple of loop clamps to locate still.
Jim
