There are two different part numbers used, 375690-S for 1965 Fastbacks, and 380865-S for 1966. They have identical dimensions per AMK's Ford Fasteners. The ones on my early 66 San Jose built Fastback are gray, and are close in shade to the reproduction ones from Mark, but the original one shown for comparison is white or opaque. Could that be the difference in the part numbers, color?
Jim
Very few who have experienced an original, well setup K code with the proper C servo C-4 trans would say it sucks. They were very different to drive than a stock C-4.
The only part I don't like is that you never know when it will shift, as in RPM. Other than that, the 'Bow Tie' crowd pretty much are in awe.
Jim
I could not find an exact duplicate of the foam sleeve so I used the old one. It has to do with the density of the foam.
Jim
Excellent. Congratulations.
Jim
I looked into refrigerator cooling line foam insulation tubes and they may also work. The sleeve still has to be slit and fitted, so I went with the old one. If yours is a bit on the ragged side, hit up some junk yards.
Jim
I slit the underside of my old foam sleeve, cleaned it up, wrapped it around the new cable, used the black 3M weatherstrip adhesive (3M8008) to seal it back up and then some black 3M strip calk to keep it in place in the hole. Use the old cable to determine the position of the sleeve.
Jim
Keep in mind that the under dash and the front lights wiring harnesses are also unique (the fog lamp wiring is integral to both, plus the alternator guage 'loop' at the instrument cluster) to both the GT and Interior Decor Group. Those wiring harnesses are unigue and rare. Look at the fenders to see if there are bondo marks from where the running horses (yeah, it's a bolt on item). If a previous owner took the time to change all this, and all the rest of the key items are correct, call it a GT - proudly. And remember, it is a lot easier to prove a car is NOT a GT than to prove that it is.
Jim
Please contact me. I may have a lead on some Mustang parts.
Jim
By the VIN, it's a bit too early to be a 'GT' but they don't make that claim directly, only 'references' in their write-up.
Jim
It's the same oil filter study, different site name. Still an interesting read.
Jim
Hi everyone.
At the start of this year I bought a 65 K-code. One of the first things I checked upon purchase was the oil. According to the dip stick it was full. Last weekend I took it for a drive, during which my oil gauge stopped working properly. It kept fluctuating off the scale in both directions (I also noted that temperature gauge also played up but only for a brief moment). I immediately checked the oil levels myself to make sure only to find that it was down to (again according to the dip stick) low. After letting it sit for a day it was still low.
I would have only done about 500 miles in the half a year I have owned it. There are no pools of oil on the ground where I store the car, so I'm assuming the car is using oil (although when running there is no black smoke).
Have any of you come across this before? Also, I am going to use this as an excuse to do an oil change and was wondering if anyone out there had recommendations on what the best oil (and filter) is to use for the Hi-Po. The car lives in the warm climate of Brisbane, Australia (which is roughly the same as Miami, Florida).
A 65 does not normally come with an oil pressure gauge unless it's a GT. However, both the oil and temperature gauges use voltage from the constant voltage unit for operation. If you still have a problem, check that unit.
I've used Quaker State or Penzoil for almost 50 years with no problems in street, tow and race vehicles, that's in Northern California where it does get into the 90's a few times a year. I don't know what you have available down there so a recomemdation is a bit hard. I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles. The only filter not recomemded is made by Fram. It has less filtration surface of all the major ones.
See this link for more info -
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Jim
The best solution is to use 30 to 33 1/2 inch rear shackles on your car. This lift will give the car crashing into you from the rear enough clearance to miss the tank and hit the rear axle. This will shove the drive shaft into the transmission, but that information should be on a new thread. The long shackles will also allow you to install 36 inch rims. The tires will be available at your local John Deere tractor distributor. 
Jim
I've had three of my 65-66 V8 radiators re-cored to three row with no problems. I also recomended a friend to go to the same shop with his 1967 289 'A' code and get a three row re-core as well. Three row types look similar to two row stock radiators enough so they will pass an MCA judge's eyeball.
Jim
I wrote an article several years back to a local magazine on this subject and my final point was this - if an exploding gas tank is something you are concerned about, don't buy this type of car, don't own this type of car, don't drive this type of car - just sit in your living room and watch TV.
Jim
The VIN does not make sense.
Jim
A 140 mph speedometer was available at all Ford dealers for 1967 thru 1970 Mustangs. I ordered one and put it in my 1969 Sportsroof. I would also not be surprised if it could be ordered as a factory installed option.
Jim
To add some clarification to your 4th querry: the brackets for the dual exhaust muffler brackets go from the inside of your car to the under body where the muffler bracket is attached. The bracket in question (called a plate by Ford, p/n C1VV-5B236-C) has two 3/8-16X2.0 studs 1 5/8 apart with a hole in the center to retain the plate to the body using a sheet metal screw. It was used thru at least 1969 on a lot of Ford and Mercury dual exaust systems. The finish should be natural.
Jim
Being that all 8.5 X 16 foot enclosed trailers are identical - you get my drift. A stock 65 Mustang Fastback is about 182 inches or 15 feet 2 inches long. You need to do some measuring, as in the distance between the trailer's wheel wells - your car's outside width, the height, the high center clearance on the ramps - don't scrape the exhaust pipes, as well as the length, and then figure out how to tie the Mustang down - front and rear and 'how do I get out of this thing?'. The last part is one reason I prefer a flatbed.
Jim
I had a three row radiator core put in two of my cars using the old tanks. One worked out OK, the jury is still out on the other. It's about $350, parts and labor - California prices. A friend put one in his 67 and it works ok. Plus it fooled the MCA judges. HA!
Jim
I got a friend on another forum that lives in Texas, an area not known for cool during certain times of the year, and he recomends Wetter Water.
Jim
