Posts by jwc66k

  • Ignition problems

    Quote from Kookie

    Automatic, Are you thinking that could be the neutral safety switch ? And can you explain to me why? I am one of those kind of guys that needs to know how things work .

    On a car with an automatic transmission, the starting circuit is routed thru a switch at the shifter that provides a complete starting circuit only when the car is in neutral or park. It keeps the car from moving unexpectedly when you start it up. That switch is the source of many starting problems and sometimes can be traced to the bushings in the shifter wearing out. Does your shifter move from side to side? Turning off the engine problems would be the ignition switch (I had that problem on a 65). A solenoid problem usually keeps the starter engaged but you can also have a situation where an additional contact inside the solenoid that provides a full 12V to the coil on start, can open or jam (I had that problem on a 66). Multiple problems are a bitch to figure out.

    Jim

  • K-Code Shock Absorbers

    There was a "special handling package" option for both "C" and "A" code engine cars that included the same shocks as "K" code cars in both 65 and 66 plus other stuff. That option was a part of the "GT" package as well.

    Jim

  • Battery Clamp Correct style -24F - 22F

    Mark,

    My only comment is your description of the manufacturing method, it is a stamped part, not cast. Having been in the sheet metal business (a sideline to the electronics assemby company I worked at), I would think there's at least a four step process to form the part. The finish would be either a dip or a spray (e-coat ?) using the mounting hole to hold it up to dry. The NOS one (for size 24) I have looks almost powder coated. As this is used around the battery, I would think that Ford would have used an acid resistant finish.

    Jim

  • Risks of Posting Your Complete VIN on the Internet

    I sold a 66 Fastback GT (non-K) on e-bay about three years ago. I used "XXX" for the last three digits of the VIN but did not cover the licence plate. I also restricted the buying to the US and Canada. I the middle of a Mondy Night Football Game, I got a call from a buyer in Australia who was upset that he could not bid. From Australia, he got my name, address and phone number from the plate. Be cautious on what you post on the net, it can be used. Oh, he did buy the car but my so-called prvacy was non-existent. That's your dilemma.

    Jim

  • Door striker plates

    The part number is a service part for a full size Ford that is also used to replace 67 and 68 Mustangs. It also will fit a 66 to 71 Fairlane, 65 to 71 T-Bird, 66 to 70 Falcon and probably a bunch of Mercury products. Ford used a lot of 'common' parts.

    Jim

  • Steering Column Bracket Rubbers

    Disregarding the reference to a posterior location, I used a piece of inner tube that I found was close match in texture and thickness to the rubber piece, and in filing the information on the rubber piece, determined that the selected folder was spectroscopically identical to the paper piece I needed so I got a different folder to put the documents in, a pair of scissors and 'viola', a paper insulator was created. What, you don't have a spectroscope? "Eyeball" it.

    Jim

  • DeLuxe Remote Mirrors

    I measured my factory LH remote mirror location (66 San Jose build, Oct 65) and the forward edge of the mirror is 12 3/4 inches from the forward most point of the door, that defined as where the vertical surface meets the horizontal 'dip' where the mirror is mounted. When I measured and marked my hardtop for installation, the position of the mirror in the dip can also interfere with vent window, so put some tape down so you can mark and check (twice on new mirrors).

    Jim

  • bench seat-'66 K, 2 + 2 Fastback

    Look under the car at the plugs for the seat removal nuts. If there are 8 plugs, or holes if the plugs are gone, and there are 4 matching holes in the seat pedestal for the inner two pair of track studs, then the car came with bucket seats. If there are only 4 holes, someone did some fancy body work.

    Jim

  • Glove Box Light?

    The exposed push button switch should pull out with the bulb attached. It's a tight fit and you "may" get the hot lead grounded so be careful. If you resort to prying, put a piece of tape where you pry from. Replacement units had an attached ground wire (originals were grounded thru the retainer), and that ground lead sometimes get hung up.

    Jim

  • DeLuxe Remote Mirrors

    Quote from cobraboy

    Rick

    I am seriously considering buying a non remote mirror for the passenger door. Where did you buy yours from and are you happy with the quality? I have an original remote on the drivers door, If you need me to measure anything let me know. Mark

    In the past the RH non-adjustable mirror assembly cost more than the LH remote by as much as $5.00. Blame the laws of supply and demand, and recovering your initial investment. Scott Drake is the current producer but there may be other older ones on shelves. The RH does not have remote control however, it is a dummy. It also is not as useful as you would like as it has a limited field of vision. I placed a 'moon' (convex) mirror on top of the original mirror and that is much better.

    Jim

  • DeLuxe Remote Mirrors

    An offset Phillips head screwdriver will work, I just use a regular one. That gets the mirror loose. To remove it completly, you need to remove the two screws that hold the remote control to the door on the inside; using a pair of needle nose pliers, diconnect the three cables that control the mirror - they should be color coded, cable and slot, but I always remark them one stripe, two stripe and no stripe, just to be sure; tie the three cables together with some 1/8 inch dia rope about 3 feet long so you can get the cables back in without taking the door panel off; and then you can remove the mirror completly.

    Jim