Posts by jwc66k

  • Autolite 4100 secondaries

    Quote from seisei

    Outer cover was wet on the down of the cover. What check ball?Where it is?What that ball do?

    Vacuum passage check ball: "- located in the vacuum passage in the diaphram housing, controls the rate at which the secondary throttle plates are allowed to open."

    You need to invest in a Shop Manual for your car. The one on disc is probably your best choice. I'll make some time later and scan the page from mine manual and send the picture and text to you via e-mail.

    Jim

  • Autolite 4100 secondaries

    There should be no fuel in that diaphram. It gets a vacuum from the primary venturi and that vacuum opens up the secondary plates from the diaphram arm to the secondary plate shaft. There is a cast-in divider "tube" in the top of the carburetor about 1/4 in dia (6mm) about 2 inches long (50mm) centered between the two secondary venturies that is the source of the vacuum. If that "tube" is broken, no vacuum. That was the problem I had on a 4100 carburetor from a 1961 full size Ford 352CID engine.

    Jim

  • early hipo rods

    Re Bob Mannel's book, pg 6-7, "- about March 1966 -" and "- mixed types -" but I think that was specific to standard rods.

    On pg I-3 of the Appendix and pg 3-10 (3A9) the identification gets "muddled". Rod marking is the same for HP as standard, C3AE (no dash letter is shown) a full size Ford p/n, but the inventory number is C3OZ-6200-C, a Fairlane p/n. A dash letter of "-D" is referenced in the HP book as an ID of the rod (C3AE-D). Remember, using the Ford p/n system, the marking on the box does not necessarily mean the part inside is correct.

    Jim

  • My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich

    Quote from Bill G

    Talking to John Enyart at Pony Carburetors & he says HIPO Autolite should idle at 900 RPM.


    Bill G.

    At 900 rpm, the distributor has around 6 deg advance. That's where you start getting all of your advance at idle, which is not desirable.

    Jim

  • My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich

    Note I stated "try". I got mine down by "tinkering" because I wanted to. It is a goal, primarily to keep any advance from the distributor at zero. I do this on my "A" code Mustangs and on my VW Baja and sandrail.

    Jim

    Back to the original post, assuming it's an Autolite, check the power valve. They do go bad.

    J

  • Cobra/Carter 2x4 question

    I ran into (pun not intended) a Mustang owner named Ben from NSW on another forum. He maintained wine making equipment and did some work for the producers of Yellow Tail wines (sold in the Northern California area). Just wondered if you and him were one in the same.

    Jim

  • Cobra/Carter 2x4 question

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    1. Is my manual choke cable supposed to hook back up to these things to be 'correct?'


    2. The carbs are both stamped 3J3...does that indicate a 1963-October-03 build date?


    Thank you in advance, Rob B.

    1. "Correct" applies to what came on the car from the assembly line. Dual quads were a dealer/speed shop change, not factory equipped, so what ever turns your fancy (and works) is "correct".


    2. Yes.


    Back to your original question; in all the pictures I've looked at (ya got my curosity up on this), Ford Car Parts, the HP Mustang book, two (or more) carbs were shown to have a thermostatic choke. I did not find any info, drawings or pictures on pre 1965 Ford mutiple carburetors. Brant (club 33) at Virginia Mustang was looking for linkage info on tri-power (I believe) so he may have more to add.

    Jim


    Ben. You in the wine business "down under"?

    J

  • Best water pump numbers?

    Wha - ya don-a gott-a hypo book?

    From page 30 (4th ed); C3AE-D or C4OE-A for the aluminum type; C5OE-A or C5OE-B for 66 cast iron type. I think there's an intermediate cast iron type in there for a month or two but I got the one I need (from Fred- another thanks) so I don't pay attention to them. There is no difference in casting numbers between HP and regular 289 production. The HP had the six blade impeller installed which makes the difference.

    Jim

  • My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich

    Quote from Bill G

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

    An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).

    Jim

  • REAR FRAME RAIL SHIPPING TIE DOWN BRACKETS

    Quote from chucks302

    Im looking for a pair of 64.5 dual exhaust tie down brackets , would they be the same as 65-67 mustang brackets, thanks, chuck

    You want the three bolt type. They have a bent angle for a bolt that goes up into a nutsert in the frame rail. You do not want the flat type (they do have a slight bend) or the type that has a half inch bulge at the top to force the correct side (left or right) mounting to the frame rail.

    Jim

  • top loader transmission restoration?

    If the transmission is out of the car, scrape off as much crud as you can. A wire brush or a wire wheel help. Use a garage oil drip pan to contain the mess. Be careful of wiring. You can remove the shifter linkage if you really get ambitious. The next steps are to remove tar, oil and grease. You can use thinner and a parts cleaner brush to do this. Smaller sections can be touched up by brake cleaner. To finish off cleaning, some people use Simple Green (I don't, the smell makes me sick), or spray Gunk engine cleaner. Most of these have a water rinse requirement which is normal. I like Krud Kutter available from Home Depot in the paint department. If you want to use paint, try Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com/

    This is the journey, others had described the destination.

    Jim

  • Electrical Rely bake alite choke cover ?

    Quote from Hi-Po

    Can anyone tell me if ford made a special tool to remove and install the fuel filter canister on a 1965 fuel pump with dual ribbed rows, without doing any damage to the can? You have to get the can really tight without doing any damage. So far i have been lucky being very careful but they must have made a special wrench.

    There was a removal tool that went over the ribs but I don't know if it was Ford or not. I use the band type to remove and hand tighten to install. I also paint mine engine color.

    Quote from Hi-Po

    On a seperate note has anyone ever heard of a special automatic choke cover which replaces the original bakalite cover but has a electrical wire coming out of it which operates the choke? I had a 1960 corvette 283 with headers and the original carburator hooked up like this and it worked great!

    That electric choke was an item featured by JC Whitney and others. There may be one in my junk box. I use the stock type on my two "A" codes after rebuilding them both. No problems with rither.

    Quote from Hi-Po

    Besides the 65 hi-po fastback manual choke, i also have 65 c-code which i converted to stock ford iron 4 barrel intake and stock 4100 -4 barrel Pony carbs . I would like to in stall re-pro hi-po exhust manifolds but keep the ford 4100? Either they have to start re-proing the hi-po fairlane exhust manifolds or better yet what is the deal with this special electrical relay choke cover? Any gear heads out thier help.

    I think there is a kit that clamps onto the HP type manifold to provide heated exhaust to the stock choke, another JC Whitney item, or maybe Summit Racing.

    Jim