Posts by jwc66k

jwc66k · Spotty Service - jwc66k June 21, 2011 at 10:33 AM

My last successful "visit" was three days ago after trying at least three times a day. I hope the webmaster is aware of the problem.

Jim

jwc66k · Spotty Service - jwc66k June 16, 2011 at 10:53 PM

Well, this lets the webmaster know there is a problem.

Jim

jwc66k · Spotty Service - jwc66k June 16, 2011 at 1:46 PM

For the last several days, my access to this website has been sporadic. Anybody else having access problems?

Jim

Northern California

jwc66k · My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich jwc66k June 9, 2011 at 6:16 PM

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Talking to John Enyart at Pony Carburetors & he says HIPO Autolite should idle at 900 RPM.

Bill G.

At 900 rpm, the distributor has around 6 deg advance. That's where you start getting all of your advance at idle, which is not desirable.

Jim

jwc66k · My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich jwc66k June 9, 2011 at 10:37 AM

Note I stated "try". I got mine down by "tinkering" because I wanted to. It is a goal, primarily to keep any advance from the distributor at zero. I do this on my "A" code Mustangs and on my VW Baja and sandrail.

Jim

Back to the original post, assuming it's an Autolite, check the power valve. They do go bad.

J

Edited by - jwc66k on 06/09/2011 10:40:25

jwc66k · Cobra/Carter 2x4 question jwc66k June 9, 2011 at 10:32 AM

I ran into (pun not intended) a Mustang owner named Ben from NSW on another forum. He maintained wine making equipment and did some work for the producers of Yellow Tail wines (sold in the Northern California area). Just wondered if you and him were one in the same.

Jim

jwc66k · Cobra/Carter 2x4 question jwc66k June 8, 2011 at 11:13 PM

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1. Is my manual choke cable supposed to hook back up to these things to be 'correct?'

2. The carbs are both stamped 3J3...does that indicate a 1963-October-03 build date?

Thank you in advance, Rob B.

1. "Correct" applies to what came on the car from the assembly line. Dual quads were a dealer/speed shop change, not factory equipped, so what ever turns your fancy (and works) is "correct".

2. Yes.

Back to your original question; in all the pictures I've looked at (ya got my curosity up on this), Ford Car Parts, the HP Mustang book, two (or more) carbs were shown to have a thermostatic choke. I did not find any info, drawings or pictures on pre 1965 Ford mutiple carburetors. Brant (club 33) at Virginia Mustang was looking for linkage info on tri-power (I believe) so he may have more to add.

Jim

Ben. You in the wine business "down under"?

J

Edited by - jwc66k on 06/08/2011 23:14:38

jwc66k · Best water pump numbers? jwc66k June 8, 2011 at 11:03 PM

Wha - ya don-a gott-a hypo book?

From page 30 (4th ed); C3AE-D or C4OE-A for the aluminum type; C5OE-A or C5OE-B for 66 cast iron type. I think there's an intermediate cast iron type in there for a month or two but I got the one I need (from Fred- another thanks) so I don't pay attention to them. There is no difference in casting numbers between HP and regular 289 production. The HP had the six blade impeller installed which makes the difference.

Jim

jwc66k · My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich jwc66k June 8, 2011 at 10:52 PM

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Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.

Sound normal?

Thanks.

An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).

Jim

jwc66k · REAR FRAME RAIL SHIPPING TIE DOWN BRACKETS jwc66k June 8, 2011 at 10:36 AM

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Im looking for a pair of 64.5 dual exhaust tie down brackets , would they be the same as 65-67 mustang brackets, thanks, chuck

You want the three bolt type. They have a bent angle for a bolt that goes up into a nutsert in the frame rail. You do not want the flat type (they do have a slight bend) or the type that has a half inch bulge at the top to force the correct side (left or right) mounting to the frame rail.

Jim

jwc66k · top loader transmission restoration? jwc66k June 7, 2011 at 10:32 AM

If the transmission is out of the car, scrape off as much crud as you can. A wire brush or a wire wheel help. Use a garage oil drip pan to contain the mess. Be careful of wiring. You can remove the shifter linkage if you really get ambitious. The next steps are to remove tar, oil and grease. You can use thinner and a parts cleaner brush to do this. Smaller sections can be touched up by brake cleaner. To finish off cleaning, some people use Simple Green (I don't, the smell makes me sick), or spray Gunk engine cleaner. Most of these have a water rinse requirement which is normal. I like Krud Kutter available from Home Depot in the paint department. If you want to use paint, try Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com/

This is the journey, others had described the destination.

Jim

jwc66k · Vapor Locking ??? jwc66k May 29, 2011 at 11:49 PM

Try National Parts Depot http://www.npdlink.com/ p/n 8A286-1A $4.25.

Jim

jwc66k · Electrical Rely bake alite choke cover ? jwc66k May 29, 2011 at 5:48 PM

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Can anyone tell me if ford made a special tool to remove and install the fuel filter canister on a 1965 fuel pump with dual ribbed rows, without doing any damage to the can? You have to get the can really tight without doing any damage. So far i have been lucky being very careful but they must have made a special wrench.

There was a removal tool that went over the ribs but I don't know if it was Ford or not. I use the band type to remove and hand tighten to install. I also paint mine engine color.

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On a seperate note has anyone ever heard of a special automatic choke cover which replaces the original bakalite cover but has a electrical wire coming out of it which operates the choke? I had a 1960 corvette 283 with headers and the original carburator hooked up like this and it worked great!

That electric choke was an item featured by JC Whitney and others. There may be one in my junk box. I use the stock type on my two "A" codes after rebuilding them both. No problems with rither.

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Besides the 65 hi-po fastback manual choke, i also have 65 c-code which i converted to stock ford iron 4 barrel intake and stock 4100 -4 barrel Pony carbs . I would like to in stall re-pro hi-po exhust manifolds but keep the ford 4100? Either they have to start re-proing the hi-po fairlane exhust manifolds or better yet what is the deal with this special electrical relay choke cover? Any gear heads out thier help.

I think there is a kit that clamps onto the HP type manifold to provide heated exhaust to the stock choke, another JC Whitney item, or maybe Summit Racing.

Jim

jwc66k · ID pad jwc66k May 28, 2011 at 12:50 PM

That's probably the engine assembly date. It's in the format of year number, month letter, day number and assembler/quality inspectors letter (5K21Z). Being that "K" is the letter for October, the engine is subject to the whim of the "Great Pumpkin", ala Charlie Brown.

Jim

jwc66k · Wondering if these are hipo numbers? jwc66k May 25, 2011 at 10:46 AM

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we have a FOMOCO 4bbl carb with manual choke and choke cable P/N C6ZFC A5HC.

Should read -

"C6ZF C"

"A 5HC"

Which decodes as a 1966 HP MT carb (C6ZF C) with rev "A" built 1965 (5), August (H), week three (C). Per Ford Car Parts, Sec 95 pg2.

Spaces have meaning.

Jim

jwc66k · Question on Engine Bolt Lengths jwc66k May 23, 2011 at 1:05 PM

The order number for an aluminum water pump for a 1965 289 V8 (all non A/C engines use the same items) is F-388, 10 pieces for $22.00. They have a $30.00 minimum order. The parts are very accurate.

Jim

jwc66k · Radio lamp replacement - jwc66k May 19, 2011 at 10:27 PM

Robert, well said.

The incandescent bulb industry cannot survive on minature bulbs alone, so, by default, they will slowly dissapear, being replaced by LEDs and who knows what else.

In my dissassembly instructions, add:

- Remove the four short screws on each side of the chassis to the bezel.

Tips for reassembly;

- Make sure the new bulb works first (the "on-off" switch must be in the "on" position).

- The small tabs on the aluminum inner bezel are a bit difficult but can be bent back to their original configuration by a screwdriver.

- Clean up the inner surfaces as long as you are in there, after all, its been 45 years.

- A bit of "juggling" may be necessary to get the knobs and shafts in the proper position, the bezel to slide in and the holes to line up.

Jim

jwc66k · Radio lamp replacement - jwc66k May 19, 2011 at 2:15 PM

California has a quicker light bulb ban on the books and they (the media and elected officials) don't say anything about it. Don't agitate the peons. At the local auto parts store (it used to be Kragans), the counter guys said the company is pushing LED bulbs and reducing the inventory of standard types. Halogen bulbs used in cars and the home are exempt for now. 4 foot 40W (F40T12) are being replaced by a 25W T8 and they are not interchangable, you will need new fixtures.

For cars who knows. Stock up.

Jim

jwc66k · Radio lamp replacement - jwc66k May 18, 2011 at 11:46 PM

Then inform me -

jwc66k · Radio lamp replacement - jwc66k May 18, 2011 at 10:15 PM

I got to that point but the power transistor bothered me. It looked like it needed to come out and I didn't want to un-solder the leads. At that point I put everything back together and went onto something else.

Forget all that stuff up there, I got a burned out GE 1891 in my fingers and here's how I done it:

For a 66 Philco radio (marked 6TPZ, accompanied with a dash of JD No. 7)

- Remove knobs.

- Remove retaining nuts on shafts.

- Using a 1/4 spintight, loosen the two top screws from the chassis. You do not need to remove the top cover.

- Remove the four screws on the front near the knobs, two about 1 1/4 inch long, two about 5/8 inch long. You do not need to mess with the power transistor screws, it will swing to the right with the bezel.

- Pull the bezel over the push buttons, swing it to right.

- Adjust the dial to the left end, like 560 on the dial.

- With a pair of needle nose pliers, twist the aluminum dial marker (it's the got the blue plastic cover on it) tab on the right hand side (visible from the top) so it's up and down.

- Bend down the tab on the left side of the dial marker horizontal by pushing down and gently pry the dial marker off.

- The burned out bulb is now accesable. With my nimble fingers, I reverted to my left hand to twist the bulb from it's socket.

- Reassembly is your problem (I'll do mine tomorrow).

I would also recomend that you get a lot of spare bulbs before the end of the year because an act of a damndemocrat (yes, it is one word) congress made them illegal as of Jan 1, 2012.

Jim