Remember that after you powder coat the locks, you must bend the tabs to provide the "lock". A powder coated bend will most likely break the powder coat's surface and you will be no better off. If you think a presertative is necessary, paint the lock with some silver high temp (900-1200 F) paint. Extra "locks" are available at AMK in two or eight packs.
Jim
I don't know what Fred saw either but in looking a bit closer at the picture of the engine's right side closeup, it looks like the alternator ground wire is attached between the alternator spacer and the head.
Jim
This car's assembly date would be around 10-15-65. I have an "A" code less than 300 units scheduled on the 15th, and a "K" code about 1200 units after scheduled on the 18th. My "K" has an stamped engine assembly date of 5H26Z (note the "Z" inspector. I haven't got around to looking at the casting date yet. I haven't had a reason to pull the starter.
Jim
Uh, black?
Lightning does strike twice. A friend is selling his 65 "A" code hardtop and the assembly stamp on the boss near the distributor is 'something' C26Z. Two of us looked at the first digit but it's off the edge. It looks like a 5 but we will have to pull the starter to see what the casting date code is. However, it has the elusive "Z" inspector.
Jim
Next time you buy underware, look for inspector 26 or some other number on a slip of paper tucked inside somewhere. It's nothing more than an identifier assigned to an inspector. Ford used a stamped letter into the block so as not to get a number confused with the date's number and to last a while.
Jim
Quote from s2msquote:
...and the latest admission by the seller that the engine won't turn over...
Actually he says "also the motor does turn over."
You are correct.
Jim
Jim, share with us why you don't think so....wouldn't they protect the induction side from debris, etc., ...?
Looking at the condition of the engine, rust mostly, and the latest admission by the seller that the engine won't turn over, any covering over the carb would be a trap for moisture, especially in the East, as in Ohio. Ever hear of condensation? To see a "shiny" bracket and other items on the carb, would make me suspicious. If anything, I would assume that the carburetor was added to enhance the sale.
Jim
Quote from CharlesTurnerquote:
For an old engine, it has a few "shiny" items, like the accelerator return bracket, the bracket's nut, the idle adjust screw and just about everything else associated with the carb. The engine ID tag is in relatively good shape too.
Jim
Would expect the carb to have been covered in plastic, which would have protected those items. A detail that is nice to see and indicates the carb is untouched is the return spring being dyed in blue. All of the re-builders do that piece wrong in zinc dichromate.
Somehow, I don't think so.
Jim
For an old engine, it has a few "shiny" items, like the accelerator return bracket, the bracket's nut, the idle adjust screw and just about everything else associated with the carb. The engine ID tag is in relatively good shape too.
Jim
I just got off the phone with the California National Parts Depot customer service department. I ordered a 10 piece 'Hose Clamp Kit' in my last order and all the small tower clamps had some type of corrosion on the bands. The 4 large clamps were OK. NPD told me they would replace the kit at no charge. This is the type of attitude of a company that will keep getting my orders. To be fair, Virgina Classic and Texas Mustang also replaced defective items I ordered as well. Just wanted to let you know.
Jim
The closest location (non-dimentional) for door mounted speakers I can find is in the Jim Osborn 1966 Mustang Electrical Assembly manual. It shows an approximate location of the speakers in the door. If I was to cut holes in my door for speakers, I would make my own cut outout hole drawing for the speakers I had "in my hand", and then locate those holes (there are four mounting holes as well as the oval speaker hole) using that drawing, some masking tape, a pencil and a strong adult beverage. Now that's just me, but I've been doing this kind of 'kluge' stuff since 1957 or 58.
Jim
Be advised that most auto parts stores do not have a computer listing on vehicles before 1967 and usually do not stock parts that were used exclusivly before that year.
Jim
I've seen a reidentified mustang at a swap meet several years back. The old number was 5F08D192898 and was crossed out by the letter"V" stamped over the entire number. The new number was stamped above the old number and is 5F08F205641. It had the "stars" before and after and was the same font size as the original. It appears that a 289CID engine failed and was replaced by a 260CID. As the Mustang was a convertible, it was desirable to get it to a showroom. There is about 10 days between numbers' assembly dates. This was witnessed by two MCA Gold Card Judges (one is still active) and the numbers forwarded to Jim Smart and Jim Haskell for future use in their Mustang Production Guide. At the same swap meet we also "found" a 64 1/2 Pace car.
Jim
I assume you mean a 1965 model year Mustang built in December of 1964. If that's the case, it is not a factory GT. Factory GT's appeared in late February in production data accumulated by Smart and Haskell in their Mustang Production Guide book, VOL 1. The start date has been discussed many times on this forum. Look it up.
Jim
Cats sleeping on top of the car cover, skunks slinking (and stinking) past on all sides, racoons grooming themselves on top of the side yard car's canopy (pictures are available), possums and their young using the side yard as a freeway, squirrls burying nuts and seeds in the ground under the covered car, dogs using the wheels to - (if I need to explain that you need to get a life), lizards sunning on the hood and last but not least, a human to drive the car once in a while. That last part is all the cars asks, except to bathe the body once in a while.
Jim
All of the above is true, the car's idenity was changed to protect the innocent.
It would also be appropiate for the date of the heads to be earlier than the engine assembly date stamped on the 'boss' near the distributor which is more accurate than the car's scheduled assembly date.
Jim
Ordered March 15, build April 4, delivered April 7
Built on a "Monday", thereby lending credence to the Monday-Friday scenario. I would also include that it is possible that two different workers did the stampings, in two different sub-assembly areas and on two different days.
Jim
You need to remove the rear non-seat section to access the top of the shock. The section is held in by four phillips head screws. Remove the two large oval rubber plugs abd be prepared for frustrations as the nut at the top of the shock stud is usually stuck. A 1/2 crows foot wrench and a pair of pliars may work; or someone elso to hold the top of the shock from under the car; or a special adapter tool to hold the stud that "was" available from either Eastwood or J C Whitney.
Jim
Jerry,
Try Rhode Island Wiring http://www.riwire.com/
Here's the page with the braided material -
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/conduit.htm
Jim
I currently use E-Phos 630 from Electrochemical Products, Inc. http://www.epi.com/ I have my plater order it for me as there are some nasty regulations about the use of this type of product. When done with a batch of solution, I pour it into another container and mix in some Arm and Hammer Baking Soda to neutualize it. If you are thinking about a bit of do it yourself, this is acid and even diluted, can cause burns. I've been doing this about 15 years now and have been lucky.
Jim
