Posts by jwc66k

My 66 K with the Pony interior (interior trim code 62, which is the same as your 65) is also medium blue. The delux seat belts are dark blue however.

Jim

The part number should be stamped in the rubber.

Jim

It's all about image.

Jim

Per the Ford Car Parts book, Section 94, pages 11 and 20, 289 V8 engines from 12/17/65, standard exhaust manifold bolts are 4 each 377187-S(2) 1 1/4 inch and 4 each 377188-S(2) 2.0 inch. The 289HP engine uses the same short ones (4 ea) plus 4 each 377277-S(2) 2 5/16 inch bolts along with 8 each 353992-S(2) washers for both standard and Hp engines. All bolts are ramplock type (with a lock washer) and 3/8-16 thread. I believe these are full threaded bolts with later ones (service) possibly being partially threaded.

Jim

A datum point is every one of the holes on the drawing where the dimension lines cross or originate from. On the car they are the studs that stick up on the assembly frame, or were studs on a welding frame where pieces were positioned then welded.

Jim

Those dimension are measured from the center of the datum hole. The long dimensions, 72.78, 48.50 and 46.50, are measured perpendicular to their holes from the centerline of the car. In other word, do not measure from hole to hole over the length of the car.

Jim

In the 66 Shop Manual, the dimension is shown as 29.84 so somewhere along the line someone fixed it. As to scale, almost all original drawings state not to scale, but in the conversion from a draftsman rendition to a service manual, "things" happen and design notes and other parts of the drawing are trimmed away. In this case, the outline may have been boiler plate and the dimensions added for different applications.

Jim

The plates start out unfinished. If you're lucky, they may end up that way.

Jim

The 22 door screws in 1965 were 3/8-16X1 5/16 hex head with the external tooth (star) lock washers. Head markings are "23", "26", "an anchor" and probably others. The screw were phosphated and oiled and were painted with the door on the car. That plate that falls down was natural.

Jim

You live dangerously. I've heard about coils coming unglued and doing major damage to people. I used one that was sold by Snap-On Tools so I made up a compressor based on that. It is similar to the Ford type in the service manual, a strong threaded rod up the center of the coil.

Jim

I looked at the ends of a pair of "A" code axles and the finish was Early American Rust - aka, natural. The exposed center was painted black but I think I did that to cover up the exposed "rust". Keep in mind that the drums were painted black at the factory with Styled Steel Wheels. I don't know if they were painted on the car or off.

Jim

Welcome, and it's not a difficult answer, stock (surprise) radiator with a p/n C4ZE H2 marked on a tag soldered to the right hand (?) top strap or possible a tag soldered to the core (?). You do not have one with the p/n stamped into the top tank as that was the San Jose type.

Jim

There have been several recent complaints that the registry is not working. Do a search on the subject.

Jim

Any shim is better than none, and the beer was for the guy doing the work.

Jim

Jerry,

Talking about a 1965 San Jose K Code.

In the Jim Osborne book i saw that not all parts are

mentioned. So if you can help me here i would be really thankful.

1, U bolts for rear end?

Light phosphate, almost natural but closer to grey.

2, U bolts nuts zinc right?

Clear zinc.

3, The plate under the springs (for the shock)

Natural steel, not shiny (in other words, don't over do it)

4, Front eyebolt spring

Rear spring front bolts, flat washers and nuts are clear zinc based on the parts I've removed. It is possible that the washers were natural but I won't tell if you won't.

5, Rear shakles and the nuts of the shakles

Shackles - natural

Nuts - clear zinc

As these are under the car and are subject to road "wet", a coat of semi-gloss (or flat) clear paint would be a good idea.

Jim

It is a major pain in the wrench for the party doing your alignment that will result in "words". In the 64 Chassis Assembly Manual, the starting point is "As Required". I got an alignment on my "K" yesterday and did not require shim adjustments. The service guy did comment that is was a pain anyway. If you have the old shims, try and match them to each other if multiple ones were used and then put them in with the thicker ones to the rear, and bring a six pack to the alignment shop.

Jim

The next steps are tricky: have a Scotch (neat if you are proper), plan a trip and go on a "test" run.

Jim

Low voltage is sometimes the result of corroded contacts. I know, something you really wanted to hear. Another possibility is a "pinched" wire. That being said, take a measurement from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the coil - not to ground. This will give you the voltage drop. Do a reading at start and at run. Start should be zero, run should be about 5 to 7 volts. What is the run voltage at the battery? That should be about 14 volts.

Jim

It's a resistance wire, probably made from carbon impregnated thread and not one made of copper. Over time they do fail but not often. Replacing that one wire is not easy as it is molded into the firewall connector. And I think the nominal voltage at the coil should be closer to 9 volts too.

Jim

Quote from cobraboy

I checked the voltage to my coil today and got 5.6 volts with the ignition on.

When I turned the key to crank the starter the voltage stayed around 5.6 volts. Is this normal ?

No.

Quote from cobraboy

1. Should I get a full 12 volts at the coil when the motor is being cranked ?.

Yes. It comes from the rear small terminal of your starting solenoid.

Quote from cobraboy

2.I dont see a pink wire going to the coil, I have a red wire with a green trace that goes from the coil into the firewall plug.

Nothing is cut or spliced.

The pink resistance wire is part of the under the dash wiring harness, from the plug to the ignition switch "run" terminal.

Quote from cobraboy

3. What happens on the interior side of the firewall, is the pink wire inside the car ?

See above.

Quote

Thanks

Check the rear small push-on terminal on the solenoid for 12V while the ignition key is in start. The wire color is brown and it is spliced to the coil lead, red-green stripe, at the firewall connector. You may want to disconnect the large cable to the starter while troubleshooting the coil voltage problem.

There are a special contacts inside the solenoid with a braided copper lead that provides the 12V during start. The copper lead brakes from old age (don't we all) and the contacts get burnt. It is a replace only.

Jim