Posts by jwc66k

The only operational component on my 66 "A" code hardtop's engine that is not an original Ford item is the Pertronix ignition. I have a lot of confidence in the mechanical fuel pump, the venturi based carburetor, the alternator with diodes and the nut behind the wheel. Back when I worked for a living, I was in reliability. That job can be summed up in an easy term - "mean time between failures". We applied the principals of that term to off road racing and came to the final conclusion that the weakest link in an off road car, the item most likely to fail, was the electronic ignition. The next item was the clutch.

Jim

What about the attaching hardwware?

Jim

Quote from s2ms

Make sure to keep your original plate and points (or an extra Pertronix) in the trunk in case of a failure. I had a Pertronix fail on me and know of at least four others including one right out of the box.

Guess I'm just old school but I think the HiPo dual point is a pretty cool piece just as it is.....

I asked a mechanic about the Pertronix system and he replied with a question, "What do you do if it fails?" I put one in my "A" code hardtop and it runs great, but I have a set of points in my glove box, just in case.

Jim

There is one factor that needs to be added about Monte Carlo bars, the thickness of the end mounting brackets. I had an unusual situation last week with a two bars that had different thicknesses. It was a strange situation as the thinner end bar "came off" a Shelby but the owner had another bar he had purchased. It gets more complicated as I have another Shelby that I'm storing but that gave me another reference, plus my own "K" car's bar that I knew was an aftermarket bar. All bars were the straight type.

Here's my findings on end bracket thicknesses:

- "came off" a Shelby - 0.093 inch

- customer bought - 0.130

- stored Shelby - 0.128

- my "K" car - 0.120

Some more info: the "came off" bar was on the car since at least 1968; customer bought bar was from a reputable source; the stored Shelby's bar was on the car since 1975 (the Shelby was raced so who knows if it is original). The customer bought bar has holes in the bracket where the bar was attached, and it does "feel heavier" than the "came off" bar. All bar diameters were within 0.003 of the nominal diameter of 1.000 inch, but there is no way I could determine wall thickness.

I would look for a bar with mounting brackets thickness of 0.125 to 0.130 inch and a "heavy" feel.

Jim

I talked with my powder coating guru and he said that there is a clear high temp ceramic coating but - the manufacturer pulled it from the market. The original intent was to ceramic coat in flat in the color of your choice and then to cover it with semi gloss (20, 40, 60 pct etc) but there were problems with the clear "sticking" and keeping its sheen.

Jim

A Monte Carlo Bar uses holes for existing bolts that attach the shield that goes around the coil spring (upper A arm bumper bracket). The bolts used on top should use not use a washer (either part of the bolt or a separate one) as the bolt head is raised enough to rub the bottom of the hood.

Jim

Quote from 6R07K

Do you get any movement in the bar without the additional holes being done?

No.

As the two items are bolt on types, the value should not change. That is assuming that the additional two holes for the Monte Carlo bar are not drilled. With a bit of show and tell to a prospective owner, the advantages of both should be appreciated. All four of my Mustangs have both brace and bar with the old firewall braces stores away.

Jim

A 64 1/2 "K" car was only produced to August of 1964, that's when 65 production began. It's a twist on words for the benefit of novices but in essence, truthful. The quantity of 17 is a puzzlement, or a WAG.

Jim

Those two assembly manuals for 66 Mustangs are not available from Osborn Reproductions, however, the 64 Weld and Sealant is 95 pct accurate for 66 Mustangs, the notable exception being the hardware holding the doors to the body (66 uses 22 5/16-18X1 1/4 or 1 1/2 Sems disc washer bolts). The sheet metal used in 66 may be different in a few areas but attaches the same way. The 64 Chassis Manual is about 80 percent accurate. There are too many variances to list but I use it on my three 66 Mustangs and will use it as necessary on a couple of Shelbys. Don't get me wrong, there are differences, you got to know what they are.

Jim

That's all I want to know. I've been doing hot phosphating of Mustang hardware for 17 years.

Jim

Was that a hot phosphoric solution or cold?

Jim

Bo and Dave,

Thanks for the input. Let me add something to the mix. I just got off the phone with the owner about the two arms. He said that the car has been in the family since late 1968 and nothing was done to the car since then. When the restoration process started a few years back, he did find out that the car had been in a wreck, "sandwiched" using his body man's words, so it possible that those parts (and others) were replaced prior to 1968. In other words, the NVD processed arms date from 1968. Is it possible these NVD parts were used on 1968 and later Shelbys?

I still need a couple of bits of info. What is the finish? Is the Ford power steering bushing (C3DZ-3356-A or aftermarket) a valid replacement for this idler type arm?

Currently the car is a shell waiting for paint.

Jim

Thanks Bo. I'll inform the owner.

Jim

Now you got me concerned. It is my understanding that the car has been in their family for about 35 years. Here's a more detailed description of the markings of the two items.

Pitman arm: top near hole for center link "K6": bottom from center link hole "KRR- (space) 25479, logo (something with four script bumps in an oval), (the rest is all caps but 90 deg ccw), NVD, something (a casting flaw?), B 1 B.

Idler arm: top near bracket "M", about halfway up the shaft a small "A": bottom from post for center link, "XRR-25490, (dash) logo (something "OR" ? something), (dash) A 1 A (dash) "1" (90 deg ccw), NVD (upsidedown).

Jim

I'm helping out a friend on a 66 Shelby (March 66 Ford build) and would like to know what the finish is on the Pitman arm and idler arm. They have been chemically stripped and are marked XRR-25479 and XRR-25490 with a faint Ford oval logo. I also have a December build Shelby stored along side the house that needs the same info (although that may be worked on next year).

Also, what is the recomended replacement bushing for the Idler arm?

Jim

Vacuum advance? And power steering? Well, you may have the "power".

Jim

Here's a link on buck tags. Note that it's a German based Mustang website. http://www.ponysite.de/fmcog/to_alt/bbtd.htm

Jim

It looks like rayon is your best bet. NPD states that rayon "duplicates" the original weave on 64-68 cars so that would be the deciding factor. Try http://www.accmats.com/ and ask them if they still produce the 80/20 mix.

Jim

I've put carpet in seven Mustangs (64-67) and had little problem with any, except the under-the-carpet stuff that was tar based. Most of the carpet came from NPD, but I don't remember who made it for them. A hair dryer works wonders (for seats too). Do it yourself. You'll feel better about you car.

Jim