It looks like 7 Oct (a Wednesday) to 10 Oct (a Saturday) 1964 as a range, with 9 Oct (a Friday - sorry) being the closest. (Standard MCA disclaimer applies.)
Jim
Posts by jwc66k
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On that link, scroll down to 66 accessories. It's close enough for your car's application and large enough to see.
Jim
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There is a short (about a foot long) single conductor cable from that three pin receptacle (switched) to the hot lead (black) of the radio (65 p/n C5DB-18A919-A, 66 p/n C6ZB-18A919-A). The bullet connectors on the 65 version may be either black or yellow. I don't know what the difference is between 65 and 66 types. The second connection is for the radio light which goes to another three pin receptacle that has a blue-red stripe feed. Ground ("earth" to the English) is thru mechanical connections.
Jim
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Quote from rockhouse66
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Could you provive some details for the clamp on the drain hose?
Jim
It is one of those wire spring clamps, like you see on PCV hoses only larger.
Thanks. The service parts book has a worm type listed for repairs.
Jim
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Welcome to the forum from California. Your "K" car is listed in the registry if that's any help (actually made on my birthday), past that the only info you can get would be from the previous owners.
Jim
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Could you provive some details for the clamp on the drain hose?
Jim
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Remember, parts left out are not subject to failure -
Jim
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There are two brackets used for alternators and both are stamped steel and are attached to the water pump. The fixed one is triangular shaped, marked C5AE-10156-B and the adjustable one is curved with a slot, marked C5AE-10145-A.
Jim
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Ford used a piece of tape over the upper edge and then applied sealer on the inside piece per the body assembly manual. The drain is not documented but all three of my San Jose Mustang Fastbacks have them. On one car, the lower inside section under the vent area and over the drain hose, was a sheet of plastic (thick, like a single sheet painting drop cloth 0.003-005in) held in with tape. I don't know if that was factory or a previous owner's good idea.
Jim
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Good question. I would assume some type of sealant would be used there but, no. The 65 assembly manual shows only black out paint on the non-exposed body where the vent goes. I would be tempted to place a small "string" of sealant myself and then tell nobody (except a prospective buyer - naw).
Jim
I just went out to the garage and looked at my 66 Fastback (I got one of each, 65 & 66) and see no trace of sealant on the vent. However, I acquired three of the vent bezel inserts and all three have a "trace" of a narrow band (1/16 inch w) of something, it could be paint.
Jim
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Somewhere I read that a complete 289 engine, including manifolds, was around 525 pounds.
Jim
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It all becomes clear - early 1964 1/2 Mustang consoles did not have the upper light in the console glove box but used a light housing (similar mounting to the one on the AT indicator) that clipped to the plastic cover plate on the front of the console glove box. The light came one when the door was opened or when the headlight switch was turned to interior lights, therefore only one wire is necessary.
Jim
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To clarify the colors by function: the obvious one first, black is ground; the black-blue stripe is for the courtesy lights and goes on with either an open door or by the headlight switch to interior lights position (CW), the green-yellow stripe is hot all the time and would feed the light inside the console glove box. The irony is, the same color codes are used in my 1999 Ford E250.
Jim
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Don't try to take it apart yourself. You will get it apart, but not back together. Cantact Bill Heely.
Jim
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I had to struggle to see "pink" on the end of the center link. An impartial opinion (a bow tie driver no less) made in full sunlight and then in the shade said the color looked like a "washed out shade of dirty oil covered white" and if I wanted it to be pink, so be it. In that case, so be it - pink.
Jim
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I was looking for "paint daubs" and/or "center link" in the search engine and wound up back here.
Center link: I have three I'm working on (to be phosphated soon): one from a 66 Shelby that was completly stripped when I got it; a second one I've had for a while (64-66 V8 type, plant and year unknown) that had a 1 by 1 inch white paint daub at the Pitman arm end; a third one that came from a 65 Shelby restoration project (that may or may not have been on the car) that had the reminents of a 1/2 by 1/2 white paint daub at the same end. Any confirmation?
Jim
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I use several different methods to "protect" areas I don't want to be bead blasted: masking tape or duct tape; RTV cement; a rubber grommet. Glass beads do not remove soft materials easy so that's the trick.
Jim
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But it sure runs great with a leaned out system, just before the engine goes "poof".
Jim
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I bought a HP distributor off e-bay several years back. It had a Ford p/n of C5OF-12127-E on its tag but was in fact a Motorcraft rebuild of a vacuum advance distributor. I don't remember the stamped number on the housing. It was a legitimate Ford rebuilt replacement but it was not a factory installed item. I sent it back. This carburetor shown on e-bay has a predominant Motorcraft box shown. I wonder if that is the same situation here, a non HP carburetor "remanufactured" for HP use?
Jim
