Posts by jwc66k

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    It's been a while, but I got "new" a pressure plate from one of the sources you mentioned, it chattered and needed to be rebuilt. I'm not being negative, just wary.

    My water pumps had no problems from those same sources although I would recomend you check your local auto parts store for one, just check first.

    Jim

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    Quote from iowa

    just a quick Q about my son's C code 3spd tranny

    would a 'K' code toploader fit into his car?

    thanks

    iowa

    The backup light switch and speedometer cables are different. You may also have a problem with the speedometer gear inside the transmission.

    Jim

  • More "K" -

    I found a reference to De Tomaso Mangusta stating that the European versions (about half of production, 200 cars) were equipped with 289 271hp engines (also 306hp ala Shelby?) which raised a flag, there are more "K" engines than meets the eye. The Griffith was another. What other cars were equipped with "K" code engines?

    Jim

  • Parking brake handle.

    Quote from SixfiveGT

    Phil:


    I've used "Testor's" white model paint and model brush and use what is known as a "dry brush" application technique. This is where you dip the end of the brush in a small amount of paint (what I do is shake the paint bottle for about a minute.. remove the cap and use what paint remains in the cap to dip the brush).. then I essentially wipe the brush dry so only a very small amount of paint remains on the bristles... then using a very light touch gently wipe each letter... this will leave a light coating of paint. You will have to do several coats to get the effect you want. It is very easy to just apply the paint to the top of the letters. I have had good results on a number of handles... send me your email and I will send you photos of what I did. (still can't figure out how to post pictures on this thread) hope this helps

    Flat white paint seems to be the closest. Sand the letters lightly then paint as above. If you make an error on a letter, let it dry, scrape off the bad part and reapply.

    Jim

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    Quote from 289route66

    Never seen a hole in that location. I think it's just an arrow pointing to the two bumper brace holes and the distance given indicates the distance to the two holes from the ground.

    Exactly -

    Jim

  • 1964 Fairlane Doing "It" -

    All I can say is - damn -


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    http://www.dogfightmag.com/2010/08/a-1964…ts-nurburgring/

    There are pictures in the forum on the above link -


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    Do at least two laps -

    Jim

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    In a word - no. The reference dimensions are from a fixed flat surface to the points on the front (steering gear - bumper mt) and to the leaf spring mounts at the rear. Those are used to make the car track and steer properly (along with the dimensions on the other view). Your drawn in reference points may or may not be at the same height, level or parallel when those other dimensions are met.

    Jim

  • Tie Down Brackets -

    I got around to removing a pair of tie down brackets from a 66 GT and found some interesting things. First, why did that car still have the brackets? It is a dual exhaust car, and to get to the brackets for removal, at least the one on the left, with the leaf springs and exhaust resonator installed, is difficult - you need to be double jointed. It took me at least 30 minutes, mostly figuring out which bent angle box wrench would work, finding the nut and keeping the wrench on it. The heads were a bit "rounded" and the nut was a locking type so it was difficult. The dealerships did not have that much time to spend on a dual exhaust car, and probably didn't bother with others unless they had the opportunity.

    The right side was a breeze. That got me to thinking, when were the plates installed? Based on the amount of effort to remove that left hand bracket, I assume that the brackets were put on before the exhaust and therefore before the springs. These were the type with the bent tab for a third bolt from a mid Oct, 65 San Jose build car which also match the brackets from another car from the same plant and same month. Now for the big surprise, the brackets were painted gloss black, at least the area that was not exposed to road wear and time.

    I also found that the undercarriage was painted with dark red primer.

    The attaching hardware was both common, unusual and mostly available from other applications. The four horizontal bolts are the same ones used to attach a V-8 manual tranmission bell housing to the engine, p/n 20546-S, 7/16-14X2 1/2 hex head, GR2, and the four nuts were the same as ones used to attach the bumpers to their brackets with the capped carriage bolts, 374358-S8, 7/16/14 Stover lock. The two vertical mounted bolts were the same as the ones used to mount a V-8 bell housing to a manual transmission, 20430-S, 7/16-14X1 1/4 hex head, GR2, One of those had a lock washer, 34783-S7, 7/16 trapazoid type, that was used on I-6 bell housing to a manual transmission. The four washers were strange. The closest to a Ford p/n was 351815-S7, 7/16FLW, 0.469 ID, 0.875 OD, 0.094 T. The ones I had (both cars) were thinner, 0.080 T and were well used, warped. I find no application for that washer in assembly manuals at least on a Mustang. All the bolts were natural (rust covered although light), the nuts were either cad or zinc plated (determined from the mounting surface) as well as the washers.

    For reinstallation on my "K" car, the plates will be painted, the bolts as close to natural as possible (rust removed), and the nuts and washers will be zinc plated.

    Jim

  • SEAT BELTS

    Federal regulations dictated front seat lap belts only for 1965, the rear seat lap belts were optional. Front and rear seat lap belts were required for 1966 and on. Front seat shoulder belts were an option in 1967 and required for 1968 on.

    Jim