Posts by jwc66k

  • HiPo Choke Cable

    There is a grommet for the choke cable, documented as 352963-S, 1/4in id, 3/4in mtg hole, 7/16in oa thk, split. An exact replacement source is vague. You might try an electronic parts store, plumbing store or hardware store for a similar item.

    Jim

  • Brake lines to master.

    Back a thousand years ago (it seems to be that far back) when I did the plumbing on my sand rail, I bent the tubing to fit first, trimmed it to the proper lengths and then put the fittings on the ends. This works most of the time but can be a pain in tight areas.

    Jim

  • 1965 Options Visibility group

    1. Cover the are in question with masking tape.

    2. Position the mirror.

    3. Open the wing window.

    4. If the window opens, move the mirror forward till the window won't open, then back off.

    5. Mark holes, center punch and drill.

    6. If the window don't open, move the mirror to the rear.

    7. Repeat step 3.

    This ain't rocket science.

    Jim

  • gas mileage

    Accuracy of the gauge? Not hardly. I fill up the car always, and drive until I estimate a 1/2 tank was used (100-120 miles, and I nhave never run out of gas - my father taught me well). The only gauge that would be in question is the odometer, and that I check using GPS. Fuels is measured at the pump, which in California, is under government inspection.

    I've had a couple of fuel level sender problems; open coil, gas in the float and a bent arm (previous owner). The resistance of the sender should be about 80 ohms. The sender needs to be out of the car for this resistence check, plus a visual check of the coil for wear and the float for "float". The arm adjustment might take a couple of fill-ups and removals for adjustment.

    Jim

  • HELP decoders and Date people!!

    The current manufacturing philisophy is called "J.I.T." aka "Just In Time", or as we in Silicon Valley say, "Jam It Thru". Parts arrive exactly when you need them (they don't). Delivery dates are the critical goal. Oh, and it better or should work.

    Jim

  • gas mileage

    Finally someone else with documentation. My current log is my computer. Several years back (1992, I just looked), I set up a spreadsheet to track my mileage on a 1979 Dodge 360CID E200 Van (It was 12.3 overall ave when I sold it in 1999) and my 1969 VW Baja (20.5 mpg today, but it ain't stock). I've added the five Mustangs to the spreadsheet as I bought them and, although I've not taken a long highway trip (1000 miles or more) in any, the car with the best milage was in a 65 GT Fastback (15.5 mpg) that I used as the check car in a 150 mile long rally I organized. It's now at 14.1 mpg ave. The other two cars (I sold two) are: 66 "A" code hardtop semi-daily driver - 12.1 mpg; 66 K GT Fastback 10.5 mpg. It's the crappy gas we have here in California. They currently get driven about every two to four weeks about five miles just to keep them running. The best I ever got in a Mustang was 18.1 mpg driving from the East Coast to California in 1967 in a 1966 "A" code Fastback, 4 speed. I maintained a 66.1 mph ave as well. The car weighed in at 4,250 pounds (empty weight was 2,820 at the Connecticut dragway) when I weighed it at a NY State weigh station on I-80 West of Albany. I did this because everything I owned, all 1,430 pounds, was in the car.

    Jim

  • HELP decoders and Date people!!

    The where was not in question, the quantity is. HP cast components comprised about 1 1/2 percent of total engine production and 2 percent of small block engine production (rough figures). With that small quantity required, larger lots were cast as a hedge for "spikes" in demand. That is a fact of production management (I spent too many years in that area). As a result, excess parts sat on a shelf until needed. Completed HP engines required resources for assembly that were needed for other engines because of their demand, so dates on parts and assemblies would be spread out. Example: my "K" engine has an assembly date of 5H23 (Aug 23, 1965) and a scheduled build date of 18K (Oct 18, 1965), almost two months. I'll look up the part's dates later.

    Jim

  • HELP decoders and Date people!!

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    1. My 1966 K code block has the following assembly date code stamp 6A5-X, what does the X mean?


    1. Does this build/date sequence seem correct?


    Exhuast Manifold C115

    Check this again. The format does not make sense.

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Intake Manifold 5D27

    1965 - April 27

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Distributor 5F8

    1965 June 8

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Heads, (both), 5L4

    1965 November 4

    Quote

    Block 5M10

    1965 December 10

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Steering box 5M27

    1965 December 27

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Engine Assembly date 6A5-X

    1966 January 5, X = Assembly code, possibly Quality

    Quote

    Carb date 6BA

    1966 Feburary first week

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Car build bate 6B25

    1966 Ferbruary 25

    Quote from 6F09KANADA

    Car sale date as per original invoice March 15, 1966.

    Lucky you. Do you have the window sticker?


    Jim

  • Ridge on real GT fog light hole

    There is a definite difference between a sawed hole "ridge' and a punched hole "ridge". To replicate a punched hole from a sawed hole, use a large diameter drift pin using a portion of the shaft at least half the size of the hole and force the edge of the hole inward slightly by rotating the drift pin in it. Don't overdo it.

    Jim

  • Ridge on real GT fog light hole

    The holes for the fog light wiring pairs thru the radiator support were punched so there is a ridge or a bevel or lip (I believe inward). I removed an original from one of my GT's (a March 66 San Jose Fastback) and the hole was 0.750in dia, the grommet was 0.740in od dia and the outer flange was 0.965in dia. Some repro grommets are for a 0.812in dia hole with a 0.890in dia flange. This may have been corrected but be careful.

    Jim

  • Error in factory vin. stamping

    Yeah, it happens, but there are also situations where a complete good front clip from a Mustang "donor" car is attached to the rear of another Mustang sometimes with different body styles. In "The Mustang Production Guide, Vol 1", there are a few legitimate changes and I found one myself at a swap meet where the VIN was changed from 5F08D192898 to 5F08F205641 with the first number "V"ed out. The 289CID engine must have failed and the only available V8 was a 260CID. There are two (possibly three) VINs in the engine compartment, the visible one on the left, a second under the edge of the fender on the right by the hinge and a third on the left by the hinge. The door and registration should also match so you may have to pull the right fender to check.

    Jim

  • Driver's side remote mirror

    The remote mirror needs to be mounted in different holes further to the rear of the door than a standard mirror to clear the wing window. I added a pair (matching passenger's side) to my 66 hardtop by eyeball. Well actually by using my "K" car's mirror mountings as a guide. The front edge of the mirror should be about 12 3/4 inches from the "drop" bend at the front of the door panel. If this an upgrade, there will be a hole (on each door) where the front mounting hole of the standard mirror was. I put a rubber washer and chrome screw in that hole to be covered with bondo at repainting time.

    Jim

  • Iowa's 5F09K project

    It's copyrighted materials and (contrary to the previous) is not supposed to be legally copied. It's not an NPD requirement but one of Jim Osborn Reproductions and possibly the Ford Motor Company. That being said -

    Jim

  • Powder Coat - Plus -

    I'm helping a friend restore his Shelby and in the process he got a pair of Ford bumper end brackets (C4ZB-17A869, C4ZB-17A870 or C5ZZ-17A869-B, C5ZZ-17A870-8) off e-bay. They came two to a box and one pair was mine, one his, if I "fixed" a couple of minor finish scratches. It turns out the brackets were powder coated and to "fix" the minor scratches required the removal of the powder coat. Good luck. I went to my powder coating Guru and he recomended "Aircraft Paint Remover" by Kleen-Strip. Needless to say, it worked. I got a quart (under $15) and applied the stuff, let sit, scraped, wire brushed, rinsed in water and bingo, most came off. (I'll hit it again tomorrow.) A word of caution - the stuff is toxic and stinks strongly of ammonia - but it works. I don't know the effect on metals other than steel. Oh, in the warning section on the back of the can it says - "DO NOT USE ON AIRCRAFT". Figures.

    Jim