Posts by Menace

Mine is a Metucheon car. The date code on the door data plate is 15 M.

The heads have a 5L5 date code. The intake has a 5H27 date code and the engine assembly stamp is 5M21d. I lost my picture of the engine block casting date. It it too hot right now to get under there and take the starter off.

The transmission case has an L-8 date code. The casting code on the transmission case is C5AR-7006-D W-2. The tailshaft has C4ZR-7A048-A and date J22.

The diff cover has what looks like 5M10 date code.

So it is established that this happened more often at Metucheon? Do you know if they marked replacement engine blocks any different than the original blocks anywhere?

My car doesn't have the VIN on either the engine or trans but both are definitely hipo. When I rebuilt the engine the original pistons, cam, crank, rods were all there. The heads are hipo as well.

Someone told me that if the VIN stamps are missing it is not the original drivetrain period which I suppose I can't prove otherwise but why would the engine and trans not have the VIN stamp?

I guess the engine could be a replacement block. That would not too hard to believe and if so is there a way to tell replacement blocks? But why would the trans have the correct tag but no VIN stamp? Someone blew the whole drivetrain?

I recently saw this k code for sale on Hemmings and thought they were making some real bold claims about numbers of k codes produced. They claim a 1 of 1 car but as far as I know there is no way to tell the exact number of any particular configuration of pre 1967 cars since the records were lost. I have seen some fairly widespread estimates of K codes and GT cars but not combination of options.

Is there a definitive source for production numbers on these cars and what do you think of the claims on this listing? Misinterpretation of the k code registry as being all k codes produced or borderline fraud?

1966 FORD MUSTANG GT K-CODE FASTBACK – Daniel Schmitt & Co. Classic Car Gallery

1966 Ford Mustang GT K-Code Fastback | 1 of 1 built with these options | Only 9,148 miles | Original 289 K-Code 4V HiPo engine | info@schmitt.com

www.schmitt.com

Thanks all for the comments. It is becoming apparent that the stock setup is the best bang for my buck in this case.

The car runs nice and has adequate acceleration I guess. I am able to get a 6.5 s quarter mile and 14.7 s 1/4 mile on the street. Maybe I am expecting too much.

I guess I could build a different engine with aluminum heads that flow better, a camshaft to match, a better flowing intake and carb, and exhaust system to really optimize the SBF.

At that point though it would lose some of its 60’s authenticity and feel which is more important for me with this car.

I recently got my transmission rebuilt by David Kees Toploader and opted for the Hurst Competition Plus shifter and adapter for the original shifter which works fine but I can't get the reverse light switch to work with the new shifter.

I purchased the one from Hurst and it is pretty flimsy metal and attaches to the back side of the shifter but interferes with the parking brake lever. Has anyone fashioned a bracket that works with this setup or know of a solution for this?

Hi all,

I was wondering about everyone's thought on doing what Shelby did for extra horsepower on a K code non GT350.

I have been thinking about buying a reproduction Cobra aluminum intake and Holley 715 setup but for $1600 or so I don't know if it is justified for the modest horsepower gains.

I do not have a trailer queen so being perfectly concourse correct is not super important but I am limiting my upgrades to items that were available in the 60's.

Thanks Fred. That is what I thought but he was adamant.

14A53C29-D713-4692-B7F0-FBFE8E036A5B.jpg

I am at a car show and someone told me my K code could not have a pony interior because they were not offered on 1966 k codes. Is that true?

I didn’t want to argue and my door data plate says different.

When I had a rod knock with my engine it was really apparent. It was loud and a lot slower than what I hear in the videos. I am sort of newbie too so take whatever I say with a grain of salt.

The good thing about a rod bearing going, if there is anything good about it, is that you can drop the oil pan without too much trouble and look at and inspect the rods. You can even see the camshaft pretty easily from underneath. It might be worth doing that to see what you're working with.

My issue was obvious one of the rods moved quite a bit when I tugged on it.

You can also invest in an inexpensive boroscope to help you get a better view of things before you disassemble the engine. I even looked down in the cylinder from the spark plug hole after the rebuild to check the ring seating.

Quote from 65KGT

Holman Moody in Charlotte can still grind you a HiPo cam at a very reasonable rate. The cam will be dead on.

[Blocked Image: http://65kgt.home.mindspring.com/index_htm_files/171.jpg][Blocked Image: http://65kgt.home.mindspring.com/index_htm_files/172.jpg]

Thanks for the information. I already ordered a cam from comp cams, their nostalgia plus which has a similar grind. I haven’t fired the engine yet so I don’t know how it will perform but hopefully soon I find out!

I am rebuilding my engine and I can’t seem to find a timing set that will work with the hatchet weight. The machine shop gave me a double roller that would work without the weight.

The camshaft was a melling part but I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a replacement set.

I found a cloyes set from Napa that looks right but is there a better quality replacement? The one I found would also need to be drilled for the roll pin to attach the weight. How would I do that?

Thanks for any advice.

Napa Set
3-PIECE TIMING SET
Part #: NTP 203014

I am the one that bought this car. I was wondering what items you thought were questionable. I am also wondering what registry you are talking about.

Thanks.