Posts by cobraboy

Hi Jack

I have the anti theft screws on my car, they are a hex socket with a dimple in the centre so you cannot use a normal hex key, you have to have a hex key with a hollow centre.

If yours look like this you may have to buy a complete set from Scott Drake to get the key to undo yours.

Try Phil Severance for your clock repair, he repaired my tach and is a nice bloke.

psev@cableone.net

http://www.phidonrestorations.com

You may find that the cable is long enough to re trim the outer and then reconnect to the carb.

My outer coating was cracked so I pulled it all off and reversed it, putting the cracked end under the dash.

I beleive 'dead nuts on' sell the outer coating.

Ray

I am hanging my head in shame.

My (lame) excuse is the old peepers are not what they used to be.

Whats 3/8" between friends anyway ?

Mark

I am using uniroyal tigerpaw I" whitewall 205/70 14.

They ride ok, not what you call a sporty tyre, but nice enough and cheap.

[Blocked Image: http://i47.tinypic.com/mabf28.jpg]

Measured the white stripe today - they are in fact 5/8"

Ray

That sounds good to me.

I'll take the best two weeks of the summer every year - you keep it for the rest.

Hope you are well

Mark

Quote from zray

to me it matters where it goes. Once overseas, it will likely never make it back to the states. Driving up prices due to rarity is not always a good thing for us.

Z. Ray

I agree and disagree with you.

In our computor age the market place for these cars is truly world wide so a car advertised overseas on the internet can equaly be bought and return to the US as to go anywhere else.

I cannot speak for other countries but the knowledge of K cars in the UK is limited, so mine would be more likely to find a new owner back over there.

I would not object at all to my car being re patriated when I am too old to enjoy it.

I agree about the pricing, that was meant to be a fun remark as detailed by the smiley.

I think that if parts and car prices get out of reach it will do great harm to the hobby, the ordinary bloke will not be able to carry out the restoration he wants to the standard he wants, and could also lead to lots of repro parts being produced that fall below the standard of OEM diluting the breed.

I guess I'll leave it a few months before I make you an offer Ray

Quote from 66gtk

quote:

66KGT coupe is sold. Heading to the land down under.

Larry

Damn, there goes another one. Seems over 75% of the good cars I see advertised eventually sell and leave the US.

Surely It does not matter where they live does it ?

We are all but temporary custodians of these cars. If someone takes all the trouble to import one and then source all the parts etc to restore and look after it - can only be a good thing.

Look at it this way if 75% of them are leaving then yours will be more soughtafter.

And no you cant have mine back yet

Get him some spanners quick - cos once he discovers girls you will loose him forever

Dave

This is very generous of you to share - along with the red tags this area on my car will look great

Thanks

Mark

Perhaps I will have another go

Quote from jwc66k

quote:

And Jeff, would you help us with those things you understand should NOT be there? Thanks.

You realize that by establishing a list publicly, your providing the information needed for person who wishes to fake one. Kind of like providing all the details we use to determine a rebodied or faked Shelby.

Of course the really good ones already know all or most. Its the backyard guys that this would really help

Just a thought

Hmmm, I thought the same a while after my earlier post, maybe it would be a mistake to make the info too readily available.

It sure is a concern with all these high quality repro parts that are starting to appear like axle bumper plates etc, that every mustang ever built will now become a GT.

I have been trying to prove mine is not, just for my own peace of mind.

I think I am ok so far but will ask via PMs for any tricky areas I come across.

Perhaps the experts would care to compile the two lists side by side, so the information is readily available in one place.

A list of should haves................. A list of should not haves

I have a black low profile rally pac in my April 13th '65 Dearborn car that is black inside the pods and has a correct for period ink stamped date on the tach.

I contacted a couple pf DMV'S regarding my car, they would not release any info on previous owners because off US data protection and privacy laws.

Google sure is.

OK

I have a modified driveshaft with an inner lock front joint.

I have done lots of searching and know what length I need between joint centres.

One dimension I do not have is the length of the front slip yoke - tip to joint centreline.

The site Charles gave me says 7.75" with a 1310 outerlock joint.

I have 8.25" with an innerlock joint.

Is the 7.75" correct?

I Have 2 options, buy the correct slip yoke, tube yoke and joint and get the one I have rebuilt.

Or look for a second hand unit and get it shortened.

I have not come across an inner lock joint before - I now know my joint wont fall apart.

If someone would kindly confirm the front slip yoke length that would be great.

Charles, I am sorry to intrude on your posting about markings.

Thanks for the help everyone

Dave

I will look tomorrow, but I cant recall seeing an inner clip. Which if there is not will mean those caps are there by the grace of god.

I'll let you know.

Thanks

Fellas

Thanks

Now sorry to beat this to death but what the heck is an inner lock ?

All the joints I have ever come across have clips on the outside to hold the caps in.

Is there something that holds them on the inside or are those front caps just an interferance fit.

Thanks

The enlarged pic you have just sent shows the bearing caps retained by spring clips.

At the axle end of the shaft the bearing caps have no spring clips.

Mine is the other way round.

From a safety point of view should the front UJ bearing caps be retained by spring clips?

Caps flush with the outer face - no spring clips front joint

[Blocked Image: http://i49.tinypic.com/22xnwh.jpg]

Recessed caps - with spring clips rear joint

[Blocked Image: http://i49.tinypic.com/10s5h7k.jpg]

Charles

I think the penny has just dropped - outerlocks = springclips.

So springclips on both ends - I will get another joint for the front.

Thanks

It is the pic from the resto blog above of the K convertable driveshaft dated 30 December.

Second pic down shows front joint with spring clips on the caps with rear joint with flush caps.

As prevoiusly said my front joint has the flush caps with two spring clips on the rear caps that are not in the diff yoke.

I wondered if it would be ok to leave the front caps as they are, I did not want them to move out as they have no clips to hold them in.

I can see that the shaft has been assembled back to front.

Tony

Go to http://www.tinypic.com

Have your pics ready in your computor.

On the tinypic page is a resize box with a drop down - click message board (640x480).

Click the browse button above and locate your pic.

Left click on the image you want then click open in the box that appears.

This should put the image code in the tinypic browse box.

Click upload.

When the pic has uploaded nearby will a heading that says grab your code.

Under this will be some boxes with text in.

Left click and highlight the box that says IMG code for forums and message boards.

Then right click the highlighted line and click copy in the box that appears.

On another page have already open the HPM with your posting started, underneath your intro right click then click paste in the box that appears and the IMG code you copied from tiny pic should appear.

Dont worry you wont see your pic but it will appear when you add your post to the HPM.

These instuctions apply to Windows.