Posts by cobraboy

Quote from jwc66k

There is a short (about a foot long) single conductor cable from that three pin receptacle (switched) to the hot lead (black) of the radio (65 p/n C5DB-18A919-A, 66 p/n C6ZB-18A919-A). The bullet connectors on the 65 version may be either black or yellow. I don't know what the difference is between 65 and 66 types. The second connection is for the radio light which goes to another three pin receptacle that has a blue-red stripe feed. Ground ("earth" to the English) is thru mechanical connections.

Jim

Ok heres where I'm at

Jim thanks but I cannot blow up that diagram enough to read it.

I understand all, I just need to find the second 3 pin female ( blue-red stripe feed.

I suppose I could plug both feeds into the first 3 socket lead from the fusebox but would rather find the blue -red feed.

Does it come from the ign switch or someplace else?

Well well, that sure fooled me.

I looked inside the radio and because the black lead was soldered to the case I thought it was ground.

I looked again and I see it is in fact soldered to a copper coloured strip which has a thin copper wire coming off it.

So two live feeds, any clue as to where I find the second live socket?

My diagram only shows one feed to the radio so is clearly useless.

Thank you

Hi Fellas

I am wishing to re fit an original Motorola AM radio.

I have studied the wiring diagram I have and it shows a yellow black lead coming from the fusebox ending in a 3 way socket.

There then appears to be a yellow black extension lead one end of which has a male bullet, the other having a female bullet sleeve into which the radio power lead plugs in.

1. does this seem right for a 1965 13R Deraborn car ?

2. The radio has a short black earth lead with a male bullet, what does this connect to ?, if another extension lead, what colour and where does it fix to ?.

Thanks in advance.

I would agree with Charles. My 13R Dearborn FB has what appears to be a drilled hole for the choke cable. All three apron VINS are present.

Also the radiator support has only one foglight hole - on the pass side. this has the original wire protector and no raised edge from stamping.

Welcome, good luck with your new car.

Mark

Quote from rockhouse66

This is original plastic sheet and tape as shown in the assembly manual (I think!);

[Blocked Image: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/rockhouse66/DSC07207.jpg]

I have the same sheet in my car.

My car also has a sheet of plastic each side below the vents. I do not know how this should be fixed.

13 R Dearborn FB

Quote from dunc289

Well....that and the fabulously TUNED sound , the product of a design utilizing LOW back pressure, as in the least back pressure. I may consider that change after the weather turns, now are the days I want to enjoy this great ride. By the way, with the windows rolled up it is quiet, tight, quick and responsive. The GT from America that came from the factory fully decked out and elegant with its black vinyl top on antique bronze. Drive your Kars, I say!!!

How about some pics?

Bob I sent you some pics, let me know if you need more.

Mark

My Console has 4 wires

Two black wires are joined in a single bullet.

One black wire with a blue stripe.

One green wire with a yellow stripe.

Three connectors in total

The car has 3 wires :- yellow, black/blue, black/grey

yellow on car - goes to green / yellow on console

black/blue stripe on car - goes to black/blue stripe on console

Black/ thin greyish stripe on car - goes to 2 joined blacks. on console.

Pony carbs have a HiPo clone carb for sale on ebay at present.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aut…sQ5fAccessories

Pic 1 shows the carb with no brass tube near the filter flange and a manual choke stop cast in the body.

Pic 2 shows brass tube and no choke stop.

I wonder which carb you get for your money ?

Ok, are you able to describe what I should be looking for ?

Thanks

Very interesting engine pics Charles.

Do you have a pic of the area where the Brinnell hardness test was carried out on the crank as I have never seen one.

I understand the test invoves pushing a steel ball into the part and measuring the indentation, so maybe there is not much to see ?.

Thanks Mark

Welcome along, your car sounds nice - show some pics when you can.

Mark

Fred

Thanks for clearing up the bumper plate, I could not quite decide which it was. I did spot the loose nut though.

It is a superb looking car and it is all too easy to be picky.

Every time a car comes up for sale I read the comments and then go see what I have - then sometimes a hunt starts for some part that is not present. As time goes by I am finding that my car ticks more boxes, which is good.

Thanks

I looked at the rear axle bumper plate on the body and saw a rubber attached, but also it looks like the round cornered plate from what little there is visible

And they have cleverly blanked out the casting date on the engine block.

Welcome

Good luck with your project. Put plenty of pics in the Skrap book as you go

Quote from rockhouse66

My 9/65 San Jose FB had almost a salmon/pink looking red oxide on it before restoration. It was also on very thin (no runs and a few bare spots).

[Blocked Image: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/rockhouse66/origpaintoveraxle2-1.jpg]

Is the axle bumper rubber supposed to be on the body?, I thought it was more commonly on the 3rd member.

I thought I read in a post somewhere that RPM had passed on and is no longer with us.

If I am wrong I am sure he will let me know.

Anyone confirm this ?

I recently fitted both items. I did not drill the extra hole for the monte carlo bar, there is no movement.

The improvement was dramatic.