You may want to pull the plugs and look for a cracked one.. you could also use a spray bottle and squirt the wires.. do it at night, you may see or hear some arcing.
Be sure you don’t have wires for 7 and 8 running next to each other.. try to separate them as best possible to prevent cross firing.
Far fetched thought here….. they did build some Mustangs and Fairlanes outside the U.S.
we’re any of those HIPO’s ? I have no idea.
I don’t see any Ford markings.
Probably want to stay with paint as I’m likely to want to back to black in a couple years. I have a store nearby (TP Tools) that does a lot of automotive restoration stuff and they have VHT flat aluminum paint.
I’m thinking if I do this, maybe the VHT or Eastwood Aluma Blast is what I’m looking for. As stated earlier, I seem to recall the natural finish is very rough probably because they were going to be painted with the wrinkle paint.
I don’t have access to blasting stuff now a days. When I put on my intake years back, I had it blasted and cleared it. I’m running a Muscle Parts ‘Ford’ lettered intake.
I alternate between the chrome valve covers and a set of the black wrinkle finish closed letter Cobra covers I bought back around 1980. I’d like to refinish them in a color that resembles the 65 open letter covers. Looking at online pictures I’m wondering if I need some sort of gray or maybe flat or dull aluminum. Is there a better choice?
I’ve repainted the black a couple times, if I remember, the natural finish is not what I’m looking for and it is not very smooth, probably why they use wrinkle paint.
In another forum, they suggested to remove the seats and ‘roll’ the console out/in with the shifter in 4th gear.
When I googled the Vin a few days ago l came across pictures where the car was white. I thought it was some kind of error with the pictures loading or it was a picture editing thing. I don’t know the site they were on. I think it looks better white.
What is the significance of “Signed by Jack Roush and Jack Roush Jr”?
The video in the listing will not play for me.
Found this from 2012. Link
I did leave it off but the weather is not cooperating to hook up the battery and take the car out. I considered maybe it was a factory ground moved, but why remove the eyelet? For that matter why didn’t they add an eyelet if it was an added ground? If I get ambitious I’ll pull the cluster. My first thought was maybe it was (moved) factory wiring but I just didn’t see it the pictures. Thought possibly someone would recognize “yes there’s one back there but it should be….”
The car does have a rally pac, it’s a low profile though that I thought was 1966. If it was added by the 1st owner maybe it’s a ground for that. I talked to the second owner, it was in there when he bought it.
I put the missing clutch assist spring isolators on the other night. When I took the screws out for the vent cable I found a bare ground wire wrapped around the one of the screws. Now I’ve owned this car for 45 years. For the life of me I don’t remember ever adding it. Obviously I never had to take anything apart before to see it.
I looked at some wiring schematic and pictures on line, I don’t see a ground it might be. I tried to follow it, just goes up behind the cluster.. next step would be remove the cluster.. any ideas where this is supposed to be or what this may be for?
K engines are 12 btdc initial somewhere around 700 rpm. A K code should not have a vacuum advance. Maybe California cars did? Is your distributor a dual point? Normally a car with vacuum advance is set without the hose attached.
I guess I was fixated on the Mustang introduction period.
I am the furthest thing from an expert you can get so take this as such. I wasn’t aware of a fastback at the fair. I thought the fastback didn’t come out till August of 64, like a true 65 model, not the 64 1/2 as the early versions are called. GT mustangs were introduced in April 65. I don’t know exactly when production began for either. Obviously cars were built prior to being for sale. This is a picture from Ford archive. Is it showing a fastback at the 64 world fair? If you make it bigger, it looks like a GT emblem on the side and the GT stripe. If it is a GT, it’s a year early. How long was the fair? Did they rotate cars in and out?
In the article with this picture it mentions Mustang birthday so I think they recreated the moment and used this car?
Some other info. https://www.motortrend.com/features/mump-…ction-mustangs/
The dealer mentioned in this article is still in business and not far from where I live. They have a car show every summer.
Isn’t the fill plug magnetic? Other than that I’m not aware.
If you have access to a mechanical gauge you could try that. Years and years ago I was lucky to have a friend with a Stewart Warner setup I used for a while to get a reference for the factory gauge.
I removed a Holley from mine and bought a 1.12 hipo carb from Pony Carb somewhere around 2000. Works great, worked even better when I had 4.11 gears. A few years ago I got tired of the higher RPM and put in the stock 3.50 ratio. With the slower RPM build, it seems to take forever for the secondaries to open, at least till I can feel it, seems like about 3000-3500. Should/could it be a little earlier? I’ve read that Holley springs work, but I don’t know if Ford used different springs, only 1 spring, or what Holley spring would be the next step lighter. Also don’t know if PC modified the carb in any way.
I thought about the mechanical kit but really would prefer vacuum.
Stock engine except C90X intake.
1st thing to come to mind is compare old and new idler arms and the center link for shape, bends, etc.
did you do the work or someone else? Could it be upside down or wrong application?
When that horn was blowing, I envisioned having to sort through 30 wires that were either mouse chewed, shorted/melted or generally corroded.
Talk about the glass half full.
Well that was easy... as soon I pulled the cap, I found 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the contact ring were less than finger tight. they are shoulder bolts and don’t clamp down on the ring so I really don’t know how it’s supposed to operate, but I tightened them, put the cap back on and it works as designed in the garage. I did verify the problem in the garage prior to taking anything apart. I suppose uneven pressure on the ring was the culprit.
Sigh... came back from a show yesterday evening and when I was backing in the garage, the horn decided it wanted to blow when I turned the wheel. I’m hoping the problem is right under the cap, the turn signals work fine. It is not an OE wheel, it was replaced before I got the car in the 70’s. Looks like a Grant wood wheel.
I won’t get a look at it till later in the week.
I use ZDDPlus
