I guess I was fixated on the Mustang introduction period.
Posts by 289kford
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I am the furthest thing from an expert you can get so take this as such. I wasn’t aware of a fastback at the fair. I thought the fastback didn’t come out till August of 64, like a true 65 model, not the 64 1/2 as the early versions are called. GT mustangs were introduced in April 65. I don’t know exactly when production began for either. Obviously cars were built prior to being for sale. This is a picture from Ford archive. Is it showing a fastback at the 64 world fair? If you make it bigger, it looks like a GT emblem on the side and the GT stripe. If it is a GT, it’s a year early. How long was the fair? Did they rotate cars in and out?
In the article with this picture it mentions Mustang birthday so I think they recreated the moment and used this car?
Some other info. https://www.motortrend.com/features/mump-…ction-mustangs/
The dealer mentioned in this article is still in business and not far from where I live. They have a car show every summer.
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Isn’t the fill plug magnetic? Other than that I’m not aware.
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If you have access to a mechanical gauge you could try that. Years and years ago I was lucky to have a friend with a Stewart Warner setup I used for a while to get a reference for the factory gauge.
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I removed a Holley from mine and bought a 1.12 hipo carb from Pony Carb somewhere around 2000. Works great, worked even better when I had 4.11 gears. A few years ago I got tired of the higher RPM and put in the stock 3.50 ratio. With the slower RPM build, it seems to take forever for the secondaries to open, at least till I can feel it, seems like about 3000-3500. Should/could it be a little earlier? I’ve read that Holley springs work, but I don’t know if Ford used different springs, only 1 spring, or what Holley spring would be the next step lighter. Also don’t know if PC modified the carb in any way.
I thought about the mechanical kit but really would prefer vacuum.
Stock engine except C90X intake.
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1st thing to come to mind is compare old and new idler arms and the center link for shape, bends, etc.
did you do the work or someone else? Could it be upside down or wrong application?
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When that horn was blowing, I envisioned having to sort through 30 wires that were either mouse chewed, shorted/melted or generally corroded.
Talk about the glass half full.
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Well that was easy... as soon I pulled the cap, I found 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the contact ring were less than finger tight. they are shoulder bolts and don’t clamp down on the ring so I really don’t know how it’s supposed to operate, but I tightened them, put the cap back on and it works as designed in the garage. I did verify the problem in the garage prior to taking anything apart. I suppose uneven pressure on the ring was the culprit.
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Sigh... came back from a show yesterday evening and when I was backing in the garage, the horn decided it wanted to blow when I turned the wheel. I’m hoping the problem is right under the cap, the turn signals work fine. It is not an OE wheel, it was replaced before I got the car in the 70’s. Looks like a Grant wood wheel.
I won’t get a look at it till later in the week.
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I use ZDDPlus
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I’m using a FORD lettered from the Muscle Parts era. Seems to be modeled after the F4B and Cobra/Shelby. it’s marked C9OX
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You can go to Tirerack, pick a tire and compare all the specs for any given sizes, such as height, width, and suggested rim widths.
Since last year, on my fastback,
I’m running 205/65R15 Firehawks on Magnum 500’s, perfect in the wheel wells, I think. Just a tad taller and narrower than the 215/60R15 BFG’s I was running for years.
If you are considering new wheels, think about 15’s. They make a Styled steel in 15..
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Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-1965-Must…90972769&sr=8-7
Video in this link
https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/working-1…l-from-franzis/
As a side note, I’ve petitioned Liberty Classics in the past for a K motor but they won’t do it.
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Great news.
Now, if it would quit snowing or raining here in N.E. Ohio, I may get my car uncovered and going.
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Jump the “S” terminal to the battery post on the solenoid to see if it cranks. If it does, the solenoid is ok, so check for power to the S terminal with the key in the crank position. If no power, you need to trace that circuit back to the switch. If it does not crank when jumping the terminals, make sure the solenoid is grounded, and the cable from battery to solenoid is transferring voltage. If all is good with grounds and wires, get a new solenoid. You can find wiring diagrams on the internet if you don’t have them in book form.
If you had to get it running, with heavy wire, you could bypass the solenoid by jumping the two outer cables with the key on.
MAKE SURE IT IS NEUTRAL! I am assuming it has not had an automatic transmission conversion, then you could have a neutral safety switch issue.
As a side note, you are dealing with the starting system, not the ignition system. The ignition would be what gets the spark to the plugs in simple terms. The correct terms would help narrow things down if you want to google help.
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If somebody can paste the story, rather than the link, please do.
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Many, many years ago,1980 I think, I bought Cobra black wrinkle finish covers for mine. After a few years, I would swap them out for the chrome covers, and then swap them again when I felt like it. Poorly storing the chrome covers led to them getting too ratty to put on, so I sold them to someone who was going to restore them. Fast forward a few more years, I find myself wanting to go chrome again. Since my car is not pristine, new covers would look out of place and not look right with my original double hump air cleaner, that I’d give a strong 8 of 10. I watched ebay and found original covers that were worse than I gave up, or overpriced, or new too shiny repros . A couple months ago I looked again and found some used reproduction covers at half the price and better yet, not perfect. A ding here, a scratch there, very good chrome. I think they will look right at home. Cold weather is keeping me in the house, along with the Covid19 cluster.
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I think I used 289kford on all versions of the site. Would you check and merge? Thank you
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For what it’s worth, my January build has a double hump. I have no reason to think it’s not original.