Nice car!
I have a '66 Coupe that was originally the same color combo and Pony interior - with factory AC, PS, Vinyl top, and 4 speed - luck me it still has the buck tag.
Someone painted it black and then it wound up in a barn for several years.
It is now my daughter's car - with a '92 EFI / AOD restomod set up.
Check with Classic Auto Air
http://www.classicautoair.com/
Might be better to just buy a rebulit unit or replace it with a modern compressor unless it is a show car.
I've used these guys several times and have been VERY satisfied.
Where are the door lights?
Not a true Pony interior car.
I'm also interested in a 5A to 5D Dearborn rebuildable core or repaired radiator.
My '68 Cougar had the factory heavy duty cooling and AC - AND the rubber strip.
It is possible that '67 and '68 Mustangs did too - especially AC or bib block cars.
I agree with J_Speegle - it was used to improve the airflow into the radiator.
Did you apply sealer to the flywheel bolts?
Many people believe they have a rear main leak when in fact they get oil out of the flywheel bolts - they penetrate into the crankcase area and can leak. I had a clutch go bad due to this.
Also, have you been in heavy stop and go traffic recently? If so, you could have developed some hot spots on the flywheel - these can cause the clutch to chatter when engaging. The only way to resolve this is to re-surface the flywheel. This can also happen if you slip the clutch a lot or have been slipping it racing.
Same here - my original "TICKS" as it should. The "electronic" replacement movements don't tick and the second hand moves smoothly - the original mechanical movements make a noticeable "tick' and the second hand pulses - just like my Granddads old pocket watch!
I have never installed a repop pac, but Mustang Monthly recently did an article on them - seems like they said it DID NOT wire up exactly like the originals. I seem to remember something about the tach being a different movement and requiring a direct connection to the coil. You might try to search their website for a copy of the article.
Was there actually a "early" style disc brake pad?
I can honestly say I don't think I have ever seen one - but then again so few early cars had disc brakes they could be very very rare.
I think it would be possible, with a little work and careful cutting to put a disc brake emblem into one of these pads - it probably wouldn't hold up to driving conditions, but might be good for shows.
I have my original and a NOS one I can photograph for you - I might be convinced to sell the NOS one, but it wasn't cheap when I bought it. Let me know.
Welcome to the site and the K addiction!
You will find lots of nice people and great help here.
Yes it is correct. Ford didn't switch over all 289 cars to the stamped steel mounts until sometime after the '66 model year started - it was a running change but I do not know the time frame. I have a similar early "A" code '66 coupe with the '65 style regular 289 mounts.
The "difference" according to most sources I've seen is that the "MUSTANG" version was factory installed and also had "RALLY-PAC" on the center section.
The over the counter "Parts Department" version was the "FORD" version and did not have "Rally-Pac" on the center. I assume this was done so that it could be used on other FoMoCo vehicles - not just the Mustang. I have a picture of a NOS over the counter unit that matches this description.
I have an original 8K "FORD" version on my '65 HiPo taken from another car.
The issue really was cost. Ford put what was necessary into the unibody for the convert - but nothing more. All of the changes I know of to the unibody are: rockers, torque boxes, different seat support/platform, and extra plate below the tranny - besides rust these changes work OK - but when they rust they do "bend" in the middle.
I've heard that the extra firewall supports were not on the early converts - they were added to battle a common convert problem know as cowl shake - normal road conditions and suspension movement can set up harmonic vibrations in the unibody that causes the dash or windshield area to shake - something owners complain about LOUDLY - Ford had this on the early 'stangs so they added the extra braces.
As far as I know the regular and K convert sheet metal and bracing is identical - other than the known K differences that are not convert unique.
I have mine dismounted - actually sold but the buyer hasn't picked them up.
I may have a photo already or I can take one tonight.
You can bolt Cleveland heads on a 289 or 302 with a lttle work - so I don't know why you couldn't do the reverse with a 302 BOSS block and Windsor heads - I just do not know WHY you would want to! The Cleveland angled valve heds flow WAY better than any original Windsor head.
I agree that it would not be a "shade tree" mechanic swap - so it is unlikely a BOSS block in this car.
My '66 SS wheels have K-H stamps and datecodes on the inside.
Welcome to the site.
Very cool story about getting your car back - very few individuals are that lucky. I think Beagle has a similar story about getting parts of his K back - he found his original VIN stamped block sitting in a alley after many years - it is now back with the car.
I've had my K since '79 - but parked it in '89 and began a restoration in '05. It was my daily driver for 10 years before it's age and my marriage necessitated parking it in the barn. I'm glad to finally be in a position to work on the car again!
I raced it some in high school and college - 6 grand was normal - especially with the 3.89 gears. My buddies learned quickly how fast the car was and to respect what it could do - but it was tons of fun teaching a new guy that it wasn't just another old Mustang!
I can't wait to get behind the wheel again. Great to see another owner with a driver car - I love show cars, but these cars need to be driven!
All glass had the Carlite logo, but only tinted glass needs the Sun-X added.
The windshield has a white imprint logo and the remaining windows are etched - at least this is the way they are on my 65 and 66 - 65 was originally clear (new tinted came from Glass place in Iowa with correct "Sun-X" logos and my datecode of choice).
My 66 was wrecked on the PS - so that glass is not original - but the back and DS glass is original Sun-X with correct datecodes - this is a factory AC car and I understand all factory AC cars had the tinted glass. Anyone else heard this?
If anyone is interested I have some photos of both the clear and Sun-X logos and can post them this weekend. I can also locate the address for the Restoration Glass place in Iowa - as I recall I waited several months for my 65 2+2 back glass - but it looked NICE when it arrived.
Congrats on the purchase - keep us informed of your progress putting it back on the road.
My car is a close twin of this car - Raven black, red interior non GT K built a month or 2 before this one.
You definitely have a "clean slate" to work with since the body appears to be in good shape from the photos.
A little back to your first question.
Owning both a Coupe (66) and a 2+2 (65 K) - and having had both extensively apart over the years I don't think you can use OVER RIDES in a Coupe and still retain the back seat area unchanged.
The 2+2 rear seat area is narrower than a Coupe - look at some pictures and you will see what I mean. The fiberglass panels on the 2+2 come in toward the center of the vehicle a lot further - providing some space for the bar to come in and attach without hitting the interior parts - this space doesn't exist on the Coupe.
On the Coupe - the inner panels hug the inner rear window area and the inner wheel well - AND the seat expands outward towards the doors. You can compare a Coupe and Fastback rear seat width to see the difference.
I think you could move the over rides as far outboard as possible and still not clear either the seat or the inner interior panel on the Coupe.
However, I think if you did move them out board as much as possible - you could modify the seat and rear panels to clear the bars - the inner part of the side panels on the Coupe is metal - so you can easily modify them "out" to clear the bars, then cut down the back seat to match the new inner panels. Of course both the panels and seat will need custom upholstery modifications to appear stock.
You could make a CV joint boot work if you welded a lip around the opening for a clamp or screws - picture a dryer vent and you get the idea.
I hope this helps.
