Posts by Qman

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    We finished up the restoration a few months ago. We decided to to take it to the SAAC show in Dearborn in late June. Everything went great. I had called the other owners of the car, they both live in Dearborn and invited them over to check out the car. The first picture is of Bill W. the first owner and me (I'm on the right). Bill told me about the supercharger and some of the good times he and his wife had with the car. As I remember Bill said by 1972 there was a hole in the floor and so he parked the car.


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    Here is a picture of the second owner and me. Kris was just a seventeen year old kid when he acquired the car and he ran the wheels off it until he lost all the brakes and just parked the car.

    I asked Kris what he thought now that the car was done and he said "I can't see it very well I still have tears in my eyes".

    I had a chance to listen to alot of stories about where the car has traveled and who he raced. I can't remember who said it but they use to run the car up to 6000rpm's and then count to three before shifting. Now when I get close to 5000rpm's I'm looking for another gear.

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    We had a lot of folks look at the car. Infact, I met one fellow that has a 67 Kcode coupe that he is restoring...he plans on bringing the car to MOCSEM show in August.


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    During the show I walked over to the swap meet area and looked over a Kcode coupe for sale. I think I saw three different Kcodes at this show.


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    This last picture includes Dennis W. He is the guy that did the majority of the work on the car. When it comes to restoration I do what he says and to his standards.

    The car runs fine and between 4000rpm's and 5500rpm's this thing pulls much better than my other Kcode.

    Well, that's the end of this restoration. Pat and I may end up taking the car to the March 2012 MCA show in Florida. I want to trailer the car Pat wants to drive it. The discussion continues.


    Edited by - Qman on 07/05/2011 11:07:00


    Edited by - Qman on 07/05/2011 11:09:21

    The 67 is 99% complete. Just need to adjust headlites and install the trim rings. Then put the steering wheel trim ring on, but the big thing is the hubcaps. The fellow that is restoring them is having some problems, he plans having them to me in a few weeks. The tires came from Coker while the wheels came from an ebay purchase. For these pictures I don't have the blower belt on but I've run the car with the belt on and it sounds fine.


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    I've invited the first owner of the car up for lunch and let he and his wife go for a ride. We will set the date once everything is done.


    My plan is to take it to the SAAC show in Dearborn on June 12th.


    Once everthing is buttoned up I'll post some final pictures

    Can someone explain why Ford had two different motor mounts for the 67 small block Mustangs. I see that some are called tall mounts while others are called short mounts and the tall mounts are for convertibles while the short mounts are for coupes and fastbacks. In the end it seems to have nothing to do with engine position in the engine bay. Qman

    A while back I had talked to Nate Miller at Buckeye Restorations (very helpfull guy) and he suggested ACC mass backed without the burlap attached and that's the way I ordered it. The carpet is much stiffer than other carpets that I've used consequently it took longer to install than the less expensive carpet, but I'm happy with the results. The foot well area for the back seat needed to be heated and then weight added to fit the foot well exactly. We worked on the carpet off and on for about 12-14 hours before we were satified. I'm sure more experienced folks would be able to do the whole thing much quicker.


    Another area of concern is the sill scuff plates that are available. Those things bend so easily and never seem to fit. I looked at one type where it claimed to be orginal tooling, but they were too bright. Now we'er using one of the cheaper after market types and trying to be extra carefull.

    Over the last couple of weeks we've made some progress on the yellow 67. The carpet has been installed, along with the seat belts and those new retracters. The carpet was mass backed from ACC. We did a lot of heating and then putting weights down to get the fit the way we wanted. The kick panels are in too. I decided to fix the orginals kick panels and use them. Yesterday I picked up the last piece of front window trim so today we put all the trim around the front windsheild both inside and outside. Before installing any trim we taped around the cowl to make sure we did'nt scratch anything.[Blocked Image: http://i52.tinypic.com/2uo1fz8.jpg]


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    A while back I remember something on one of the Mustang websites about who was making the best interior kick panels, but for the life of me at can't find that topic. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks, Quentin

    Sorry it took so long to reply, we went to visit our kids for Thanksgiving.

    The yellow Mustang was a Dearborn built car and came with an 8 grand tach and the 140 speedometer. My wife and I found the car in Dearborn, Michigan just a few miles from where I grew up. I hope to finish the car this Winter and then maybe show it next summer.


    Take care

    The 67 has come a long way since the last time I wrote anything on the website. The car is all assembled, a new power top and front bumper installed. Fender and hood gaps took longer than expected. It seems like you take two steps forward and then one step back. What I thought would be a 45 minute job, putting on the front bumper actually ended up taking almost a week. I had found a really nice rechromed orginal front bumper and when I put it on the bumper was too wide, I couldn't get the bumper brackets that attach on the side of the front fender to fit. I then tried an NPD bumper and it fit better but still required the making of new side brackets. I've included a picture. I don't know why this happened as everything else on the front end went together pretty well.


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    The folks who put the top on accidently scratched the paint on the drivers side rear quarter and I didn't see it until I got the car home. When I called the shop owner she agreed to split the bill with me but it did set me back another couple of weeks. I also found two small dents in the trunk lid (don't know how or where that happened) so that is getting fixed at the same time.


    The engine sounds great and the lifters take me back to when I was a kid. The engine internals are almost stock with the exception of the cam which is a special grind to match the blower and I did reduce the compression by one point.


    In the process of the restoration I replaced the firewall and I lost the mark for the choke cable. I ended up measuring the firewall of the 66 Kcode to get the spot right.


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    Putting on the the wheelwell trim can be a bear. I remember judging cars where I could see between the fender and the trim ring itself. Now I know why that can happen..... when you use some after market parts with orginal parts getting things to fit can take forever.


    I worried about the side stripes (how much space between the GT and the stripe itself). We measured then taped things in place and then re-measured and would stand back and look things over. On the first one we did it took about three hours the other side about 45 minutes.


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    I had a terrible time putting on those trunk letters...the ones with the little pegs that go through the holes in the trunk lid. After spending two hours trying to get them straight we ended up pulling them off and using the ones with the sticky back. Much neater and easier.


    I talked to Nate Miller at Buckeye Restoration and got some really good advice on carpet. He explained what to order and where to order it.


    When it came to the front windsheild I called my friend Jeff James at Tri City Mustangs and he put me in touch with folks who can get the proper tint and logo for a Mustang front windsheild.


    When it comes to welding and rust repair go to my friend Dennis Ware.


    From the pictures you can see I used an under layment product. I know it is not orginal but it may keep the noise down inside the car.

    I've learned alot while doing this restoration and it has helped me to be a better judge I hope.


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    I should have the car done over the Winter. Front windsheild needs to go in, carpet, interior is done and ready to be installed. My Christmas list includes tires and those ugly hubcaps.


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    Here are a few things I've learned:

    1. Don't set timelines it's going to take longer.

    2. Walk away for awhile when things are giving you fits.

    3. It's going to cost more...no matter what you've set aside.

    4. Ask for help, there are a lot of good folks that can help.

    5. Use orginal parts, more often than not it is the best bet.

    6. No matter how long you work on placing an order you'll forget something and it will require another order.

    7. It's not the individual parts that you see when you look at a car, what you see is the whole car


    As always look things over and give me your thoughts.


    Edited by - Qman on 11/19/2010 15:19:09

    My 66 hipo automatic radiator (I think it's orginal) has stamped on the drivers side C6ZE-F and on the top tank Mc- E 5 I'm not sure about the top tank as it does not have the FoMoCo logo on the top of the tank and it is smooth. Build date of car Nov. 1965. Hope this helps and maybe somebody can explain the top tank on my car.

    I've been working on the 67 and have a few questions...hope someone can point me in the right direction:


    1. There is a gas line guard on 67's that attaches to the floor. When I took it off the car prior to replacing the floor I took some pictures now I can't find the pictures can someone help with either a picture or advise?


    2. The starter cable running from the starter to the solenoid runs through a metal spacer with a rubber gromet. The metal end attaches to the motor mount where it attaches to the block (I think). Now my question...is there one or two of these metal spacers, one at each end of the mount? One book I have shows the need for two, but in other books they show one.

    The fuel pump is required for the paxton. Apparently you got the fuel pump as part of the package. Again thanks to everyone for all the constructive comments. I'll make the other changes as soon as possible. Qman

    The car is intended to be shown in the concours driven class at MCA shows. When you go back and read all the posts you'll notice I've used a mixture of new old stock and repo parts. The car was in really bad shape...typical Michigan car.


    I'm a certified mca judge in the 67-68 division and I know I've made mistakes during this restoration...I'm learning all the time, that's why I like this web site. I'm always looking for information to help with the restoration so keep on looking and asking questions. Qman

    I'm think of pulling the interior of my 65 fastback and installing some kind of product like dynamat. I'm interested in knowing how those that have used these kinds of products like the results and about how much they ordered to do the job. I'm somewhat concerned about carpet fit after installation also. Thanks,