Posts by CharlesTurner

    The fact of the matter is there is no clear cut definition of when a car can be defined as a "re-body" or rebuilt car. Everyone has their opinions on this, which everyone is entitled to. There are many concours cars that have won Gold awards that have probably had over 30-40% of the sheet metal replaced. I personally know one 64.5 convertible that had the following replaced: full floors, inner/outer rockers, inner/outer wheel housings, both quarters, tail light panel, 1 door, 2 fenders, hood, headlight buckets and valences. One could argue that the percentage of sheet metal replacement may warrant a "re-body".


    The biggest problem I have with a re-body is that the "donor shell" actually started out as a unique vehicle with a unique VIN stamped in it. By taking a K VIN stamp and all the parts and transferring them to a car with a pre-existing VIN is not restoration, not even close. The only reason to do such a thing has to do with monetary value/gain. You wouldn't transfer a T code coupe VIN to a V8 convertible unibody would you? Of course not, that would be absurd.


    Personally, I don't subscribe to the "putting back a historically significant car back on the road" train of thought to justify a complete unibody replacement. Once the original unibody is gone, that VIN is gone.


    I hate getting into discussions about re-body cars. There is never any good that comes from it. Either you're for it or against it. Generally most are against it because it's seen as an act of greed and deception. You can say all day long that it's ok "as long as the re-body work is disclosed", but somebody will end up getting burned, guaranteed.

    As part of contracts and guidelines, a certain amount of "service parts" were usually specified to be made and usually at the same time as the factory line parts were made. If there was extra demand later, the tooling would be brushed off or new tooling made and parts re-issued.


    To answer your question, the large front inner fender "chunks" would have been made available from a Ford parts counter practically at the same time the cars were being sold.

    An examination of the unibody should lend details on whether or not it was a K code shell. The correct snubber plate should be spot welded underneath the car, correct dual exhaust reinforcements in the unibody and a hole for the choke cable in the firewall.


    I looked at the auction pics, it was definitely an original dual exhaust car and the VIN stamps look legit. It is also a factory GT as specified in the description, this can be determined by the presence of the "dip" in the dash which the 5 dial cluster required. You can also see the fog light switch hole on the dash in one of the pics and also one hole in the radiator support for fog light wiring in another pic.


    $14k is a lot of cash for a car that needs EVERYTHING. That car has been picked clean to the bone. You have to wonder about the past of this car for it to be in it's current state with absolutely no parts included. Plan on buying a complete coupe parts car for around $5-7k and then plan on spending $15k+ on all the K-specific parts. $10-15k for paint and bodywork and then a normal $10-20k in replacement parts(considering you don't go crazy buying NOS parts). You'll easily have about $50-60k in the car not counting any labor. But hey, it does appear to be a black on black '65 K-GT fastback! Would make a sweet car when done, you'll just have to make sure you don't add up your receipts when it's done! :):D