The front valence is dated on one of the upper rectangular tabs that fit into the upper panel.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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If you're using ebay as a gauge of availability, might not be the best source. I'd say with a little work you could probably find a couple dozen for sale, maybe more.
As far as prices, hard to say. It seems as soon as someone says the market is softening, we hear about a record price paid for a car.
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The originals usually have date codes that can be seen from underneath, usually where the wire separator bracket is welded on.
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Front disc or drum?
If you have disc, it's a simply bolt-on with modification/re-bending of the lines. With drum brakes, you'll need to change the distribution block and make new lines to the MC.
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And just to be clear... what I meant by the other post was that the actual etching and appearance of the windshield Carlite logo would have looked the same way as the side and rear glass (white or black logo are not correct). The actual content of the etching on the windshield was slightly different though.
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I don't recall specifically, but yes, it had something to do with the windshield being laminated and the side and rear glass being tempered., non-laminated.
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Original windshields would have had the same etching as all other glass. There are some replacement Carlite windshields with a white logo that is technically not correct.
The windshield etchings are slightly different than the side and rear glass.
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I've also wrapped tape around one of the tools where it might make contact with the door paint to prevent scratches/chips.
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You might try a little trick I learned with build sheets. My wife has some plastic containers that she uses to steam vegetables in the microwave. You fill the bottom with water and then there's a perforated insert/bowl that sits above the water. If you can get one of these big enough for the owners manual, you can put it in there with that page open and let it sit for a couple days. It will absorb the water into the paper, making it more flexible and possibly allowing you to remove the card. You also might consider using some steam by holding the page over a pot of boiling water.
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Yes, you need special tools to remove the panels without damaging... and then it's still not guaranteed.
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Quote from dstnly
1st one's mine!
Deryl
I think yours was the one I was hoping to get engine bay pictures of. Isn't your car a January '65 San Jose car?
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If someone just wants a nice car to get in and drive and not have to worry about paint nicks or scratches, then that was an excellent car. Keep it like it is for 10 years, collect parts to restore it later. Looks like it will make someone a nice car.
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Repro's are horrible, that's why NOS cost so much. The repro can be dented by just pushing down on the clip areas when you pop them in place... not to mention the fact that the curvature leaves something to be desired.
Restoring an original pair will most likely cost more than NOS, since this consists of re-anodizing. You might consider good used if you don't have the stomach for NOS prices... which are about $200-300 a pair.
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Pretty typical ebay stuff if you ask me.
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Actually, for the listing fee, you get quite an advertising reach. Even if the car does not meet reserve, word gets out to prospective buyers. It's a double-edged sword though, because if the bidding only goes so high and way below reserve, buyers may try to use that as leverage to talk the seller down. It can potentially place a stigma on the car.
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Quote from RalphJr
Yes it does appear to be an original tag below a decal - I didn't look close enough the first time - it is however a 63A car - so the deluxe interior has been added.
Look more closely, it's a 76B(63A would be a fastback). Interior code 66 is only for black deluxe.
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Quote from RalphJr
I'd check this one over carefully - I would question if it is a true GT or Deluxe car.
The door plate sure looks original. Just has one of those cheesy decals placed over it to make it look better.
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It does appear in one of the wheel pictures that the car has front disc brakes.
The seller says reserve is set at $38k. If the car is solid and straight, I'd say that's a decent price.
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Nice driver, probably not an original GT. Small master cylinder, pin letters on fenders not spaced correctly, missing hood lip molding, backup lights. Originally a black car!
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The transition date is really irrelevant, even thought it did happen at the beginning of August '64. Consecutive unit numbers are all that is needed to differentiate a generator mustang vs. an alternator one.
