The "bolts", which is really 2 flat head carriage bolts welded to a small metal plate, are available in reproduction. They are not exact though, but will work. They just pass through existing holes through the reinforcement plates and unibody. Held in with a screw in the middle of the plate.
Posts by CharlesTurner
-
-
A skilled body man would have no problem fabricating these. Just a piece of sheet metal cut to shape with rolled edges.
-
Depending how many parts you need for your car, you might consider looking for one with a close VIN to use as a parts car.
-
Kinda strong for a car that probably needs to be restored. Looks like a good one though, original window sticker is cool!
-
Nice looking car. Needs a little detailing before they run it across the block.
-
The drain area on the quarters is a series of 3 holes. The rubber drain cover is not screwed in, it has 2 bulbs that pop into corresponding size holes... one larger than the other. The opening of the rubber drain should face to the back of the car.
-
It depends on what condition yours are in. If there are no DA sanding marks, scratches or dings, you can buff them relatively easy with them still on the car. Just tape up around them.
Otherwise, if they need more attention, then removal and machine buffing is the best option.
-
Don't waste your time and money. Restore a set of originals.
-
Very good. I'm restoring 5R08K184819, would be interested in corresponding to see if there are a few peculiarities present on your car.
-
Even though ebay does not show the name of the bidders, you can still click on the abbreviated name and it will give you information such as bid history with the seller.
I don't think a grand is out of order for an S1MS.
Also agree that the seller is reputable.
-
The '65 GT350 that was at Springfield earlier this year for the MCA national is a low mile unrestored car (26k I think). Was flipping through pics of it and it has tower clamps. The VIN was half showing on the passenger side with a unit number in the 23XXXX range, which would put the car being made something in maybe June/July of '65. The car appeared to be relatively untouched and in excellent original condition.
-
Very sad, condolences to his family.
-
Would only consider it on wheels with either no cracks or cracks less than 1/16". On a high-end show car, though, I would be hunting an NOS one.
If you must repair yours, I recommend getting the Eastwood repair kit(mainly for the filler putty) and then using lacquer paint to finish. You'll have to experiment with different levels of gloss to get the right look.
-
Are you talking about a wood grain or regular wheel?
-
The flash makes it look like more than it is. Found quite a bit of color under the car when it was taken apart though.
-
The rear bumpers are reverse date-stamped and pretty much impossible to see once installed on the car. When I do restorations, I'll go with the older paper-wrapped NOS rears, but always re-plate fronts.
-
-
I use catalyzed paint on engines with no problem. PPG acrylic enamel.
-
-
Pretty strong for a hi-po dizzy. They normally can be bought for around $250-350 at pretty much any swap meet or even on ebay. I have an extra rebuilt one I'd love to get $800 for!
