Hehe, someone might want to tell him to check inside the box!
Posts by CharlesTurner
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You have to read their ad carefully. They are not claiming the earliest VIN, they are claiming the earliest production convertible. They basically are excluding any pre-production cars.
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This car was discussed at length on VMF a month or so ago.
Basically, the seller bases their claims on the fact that no other earlier unit number has surfaced to date and that no other car with an invoice dated earlier has surfaced. Not to say that either one doesn't exist... they just say since theirs is the earliest convertible unit number KNOWN and earliest documented invoice KNOWN, that it has to be the first convertible that was not a pre-production model and the first one sold to the public.
A serious oversight with this logic is the fact that without documentation from Ford motor company, they have absolutely no way of knowing what order that car came off the assembly line. The consecutive unit number has absolutely no bearing on that, it's simply a consecutive "order" number.
There were quite a few cars on-hand for the April 17th intro date, something on the order of 20,000 if I remember right. To say there isn't one with an earlier invoice date is simply grabbing at straws.
It's a really neat car and has some value from being an early production car, but their claims cannot be proven and most certainly do not justify the premium they have placed on the value of the car.
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So long as the buyer and seller are happy with the price of the car, I guess that's all that matters. I would not consider the car "well-bought" though. The seller might have come out pretty good with this is if the transaction completes for that price. The car looks decent for a weekend cruiser, but is far from show quality.
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The small master cylinder might not be optimal for disc brakes either!
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Usually the only time you need to use 2 gaskets is when the panel has had body work and the edge filled in.
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Where can we get it from?
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The frame bracket and bushing stud should be zinc plated(silver). The top adjustment arm that is threaded was natural steel, same as the Z-bar. The spring should be black and the non-adjustable '65 push pin could be zinc or natural steel.
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It was not uncommon for Ford to use later service parts with the same part number. Although, in this case, if I remember right, the affix was incremented to like a -C or -D for the later fender emblems. Even though the box may have a C5ZZ number on it, the horse emblems either were the C4ZB or C8ZB (Which are engineering numbers). Why is this important?? Well, because the C8ZB have larger pins and the pin pattern is not the same as 65-67. Basically, if you want to use a C8ZB horse emblem on a 65/67, you either have to break off one of the pins or drill a new hole... and also drill out all the holes to larger diameter.
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That's some pretty amazing sheet metal work! I also have never seen one taken down that far. I'd be more inclined to patch as much original sheet metal as possible instead of replacing full panels. Also, for a car like a Shelby, it might have been more feasible to find a donor car to cut sheet metal out of. Surprisingly, there are lots of rust free 65-66 San Jose cars still out there!
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Quote from 66transam
How do you 'authenticate' a Sapphire blue car built at San Jose which didn't come with a bucktag?
For starters, would have to have a blank paint code and 6 digit DSO.
If it has that and the car has not been screwed with too bad, should be able to find traces of original paint throughout the car. Same applies for Dearborn cars.
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I assume you have a '65 without the indentation on the rear wheel well? It's a common problem that the spare is a very tight fit. You might try letting some air out of the tire to get it in the trunk.
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I think the pics above are a little off, like they have too much green or something?
Here's a couple pics of an original paint '66 GT convertible in Sapphire Blue.
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Does it have 'CARTER' on the side of 'CARbureTER'?
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There are many products available. I've used spray-can type and also spray-gun type. The original stuff seemed to be somewhat stringy, which is hard to replicate.
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The amount varied from car to car and from assembly plant to assembly plant. Have not observed an original unrestored car that did not have at least some traces of sound deadener/sealer used on the firewall.
Keep in mind that the sealer was applied before the engine/trans were decked.
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You might try tapping with a plastic hammer.
Another trick would be to use 2 bolts clamped down in a vice that will fit through 2 opposing holes in the spacer, but not go through the front fan side. This will allow you to rotate the fan off.
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I have a hard time believing that switching to a dual reservoir MC is going to detriment the value of a car. So long as the correct MC and related parts are sold with the car, it won't make any difference. Of course, it depends on what the car is used for. If it's a rolling museum piece that is never driven, no need to convert it. Cars regularly driven, I'd see it as a preventative safety measure. That's why MCA allows them in the driven concours class.