Yeah, I'm sure you know how hard it is to hold back. Right now, I'm probably only about 4 hours away from having a bare unibody. All that's left on it is the suspension/brakes and most of the bolt-on sheet metal. When my boys get older, taking it all the way down might be something cool to do with them.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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I'd say the stamping is relatively straight, no grind marks or anything like that. I'm taking the camera with me tomorrow and will snap some shots.
As far as restoration... well, I can't really afford to take it all the way down right now. I've stripped quite a few parts off, but am going to leave the paint for the time being. Just planning to buff it out and drive the car for a while. Interior will probably be about perfect and the engine and engine bay will be nice and clean.
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Pulled the motor out of my '65 K fastback this week. It was sold to me as a matching numbers car and I had no reason to believe it wasn't, but never did actually check for the VIN stamp. Well, today I cleaned off the area where the stamp should be and there it was... woohoo!

Need to clean the trans next. It's an HEH-T, so it most likely is the original. And for reference to Marv... my car has an 11A scheduled build date.
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San Jose started alternator-production cars with unit number 125001. This is a '65 alternator car.
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Shouldn't be too terribly difficult to find a Dearborn manual trans radiator. The San Jose are the big buck ones... because obviously they were also used on Shelby's.
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Quote from C6ZZKGT
Charles, What production date do you need on the C5 pump as I have a few rebuilt Hipo ones? Being as the email does not work here at this time a PM will work or if you still have my info you can contact me directly.
-Fred-
I'd like to find something around a November/December '64 date. The C4 pump I have is real nice, but obviously won't work for my application.
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I have a rebuilt C4 hi-po aluminum water pump that I would like to trade for a C5 version.
Or, if you have a C5 hipo or non-hipo that you would like to sell outright, let me know.
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Dang! I just bought some of these a couple months ago from B. Perkins for $350/pr.
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Goes around from the passenger side and across the trans tunnel. You should have a clip on the passenger side toe-board panel where the firewall turns down.
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With resonators, that's the only way they came at that time.
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Anywhere from $500-2000 depending on condition.
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
I didn't realize that the snubber plate was determined by the type of exhaust (single or dual) I thought there was a plate for typical 6 cylinder and standard V8 (A & C code) and the one for our K codes was different because of the 9" rear end??
The design started with the K code, with the rear build up-section being unique to the K, which had dual exhaust as standard equipment. The section carried over to dual exhaust A code GT's also.
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Those are some pretty good prices. I'd have to compare the quality to see if we're comparing apples to apples here. The place I use is very careful not to over-buff or grind out sharp edges and details on parts. He was saying the biggest issue with the fold-down chrome is it can easily be warped during the plating/buffing process. He based everything on something like $200/hr labor rate.
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Black cloth tape works well also. Go to a sporting goods store and get some handle tape, comes in 1.5" size.
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I can see right through the carpet pile to the "backing". The toe pad is so big it overlaps the top of the tunnel and the heel pad is too far back. There are also a lot of fit issues, contours are not correct, which exacerbate the poor pile covering.
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Glad you had a good experience with the mass backed carpet. The one I got for the '68 looked like pure crap.
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Nope, no grommet. Uses a screw or clip to fasten the line to the clamp, depending on what year.
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It's possible that the bottom tank was swapped during a re-core.