Not something we typically find on original cars. Would recommend leaving it off.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Quote from stevea
Did you put the yellow writing and dabs of paint back on this one and do you have pictures of the whole thing?
Thanks
That's not a K code trans, so probably not good to look at for those details.
I would recommend only putting back marks that you find on your transmission or possibly one built extremely close in production and at the same assembly plant.
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
I got THESE 3 bolt ones from Jack and installed on my '65 K GT Convertible. Fit and look perfect to me, hardware was also perfect!
If they have round top corners as shown in the image, they technically would not be correct for your '65. Squared top edges were what was used then.
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The case and tail shaft would be a dark gray, shift rods about the same. Inspection plate was natural steel with dark heat-treated bolts. Shift levers and gate assembly were originally zinc plated, so you want those to look silver color.
This pic should give a general idea of the colors:
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What's your goal with the car? Trailer show queen or driver? Do you want it to be the correct finishes or do you want something that will be hassle-free?
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Quote from round2K
Early 65 article in MT showing the strap and hose routing.
San Jose car...
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The quick answer is mid March '65. Lots of good info in the thread link provided though.
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If it's an original Ford piece, get it rebuilt.
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At the back is probably the most common, but either should be acceptable.
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Keep in mind there are different radiator types depending on the assembly plant. San Jose had numbers stamped into the top tank, Dearborn/Metuchen had stamped numbers on the side support. Top tanks for both were different shape.
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Since the date on your door plate is just a scheduled date, you can't say for sure when the car was actually built. Although, if you're trying to get the car numbers correct and using the door plate for a reference, then a 3rd week of June radiator date would not fit well. Of course, your goals with the car may or may not dictate that something like this be absolutely correct.
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The Motorola radios are real easy to replace the bulb as the chrome bezel is only held in with a few screws. The Philco radios, the bezel is part of the entire front of the radio and there are a bunch of screws that have to come out.
Regardless, either radio, you have to remove the front bezel/face to get to the bulb. Once the bezel is off, should be self-explanatory.
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There wasn't a master cylinder specific to hi-po's since they could have come with drum or disc brakes. You'll need to be more specific as to what you're looking for. Drum or disc cap--
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I have an extra, send me an e-mail.
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Are you looking for the glove box manual?
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Lube is unnecessary on the shaft. The bearing at the top can be re-packed with a multi-purpose grease or even a thick lithium grease.
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Quote from jwc66k
A complete change of topic (because I want to), Charles, how do you like the dual redline?
Jim
Very nice! Will actually be swapping it with one of the tires on the burgundy hi-po convertible.
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I think posts get moved to the archive after a certain amount of inactivity.
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FYI... the original post in this thread was started 4 years ago...
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Sorry for your loss, that was a very early 64.5 San Jose car, probably one of the first K codes built there.
